Fletch

Great work Dave, the chop is 100% perfect, the body work looks fantastic, the molding in of the Mercedes headlights flows. Looks like Tony should be very proud of the home you're giving his parts.

Interesting replies, I left this as originally posted to see what kind of information would get posted. Here's the skinny on this body. The original appears to have been a Saico die-cast, it is suppose to be 1/26th scale. http://www.toywonders.com/ProductCart/pc/S...031-77p3611.htm The body that was given me is a resin repop from the Saico friction toy car. The resin body was part of a kit produced by R&R Vacuumcraft. The kit consisted of the body, and underframe, 2 seats, dashboard, and front and rear bumpers. The kit is still listed on Star Models as being available. http://www.resinrealm.net/Star/RRGalleries...cellaneous.html The body for the toy has been around for several years and been produced by several companies. The casting mark on the inside of the body leads back to the OK toy company from Hong Kong. The one thing all the different versions have in common no matter if it is cast in plastic or made as a die-cast or the resin version is the Model number 3725. The bumpers on all versions have a common license plate of B3725. http://home.wxs.nl/~beere101/OKMAIN.html There has emerged a common theme from the guys over on Traditional Rods and Kustoms to build it as a '60s era Gasser. Comparing the body to photos of a 1:1 Morris Oxford the wheel openings are to small in the front and the rear are to far forward. These are carry overs from the original OK production to the resin body. If built as a '60s era Gasser, what do you think, Injector stacks or fully blown?

Neal, my sincerest apologies, as Brian stated my comments should have gone to you in the form of a PM. As I noted I am a student of the FlatHead, I have sent numerous PMs to builders regarding the proper building of a flathead. Only to see the same missteps time and time again. I am sorry for pointing out the flaws on your build. The over all build I love, the weathering is spot on, it all works except for........ Again, my apologies.

You are correct Neal you can do it however you please, my apologies for pointing out the obvious. If all you want is a pat on the back from your work take a look at my first statement and disregard the rest. I have spent years studying the flathead and know what I'm talking about, if the same mistakes were made on a Small Block Chevy I wouldn't have known any different. Perhaps, I should have chose my word more carefully but I didn't and the the point was made. If you want in depth information on flatheads I would be more then happy to direct you to it. As for the model police being here, be careful when you point a finger at someone as there are 3 pointing back at you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I like the concept of the build but, what's up with the flathead? To many exhaust pipes, the 2 center cylinders share 1 common exhaust. And there has never been a flathead that has ever used a distributor at the rear of the intake manifold, they are always on the front of the engine no matter the year. You have the distributor on the front of the engine why add one to the intake? Sorry, but with thousands of pages of documentation available on the net these mistakes should never happen. They totally detract from the overall build. They take the viewers attention away from the cool stuff and cause them to focus on the things that are extremely incorrect.

Here is the link to the SABA monthly meeting page. We have changed locations for our meetings for the Summer and the new location's lighting sucks to say the least. So, I was not able to get the Quantity or the Quality of photos. I'll know better next month. http://www.sabanw.org/monthly_meeting

Tonight at the June SABA meeting one of the members walked in and handed me this body. He ask if I had any ideas of how it could be built, My reply was that several came to mind. Next thing he says is good build it how you think it will look best. I know nothing about this body except that it is a resin and appears to have been from a mold of a metal die-cast. There is a trademark logo inside the body the appears to be the letters OK inside a globe, with the lettering NO3725 and Made in Hong Kong. Hosted on Fotki The body seems to be around 1/20th scale. The resin it was cast from is very light gray almost white in color. Who ever cast this body used what seems to be talcum powder for mold release in stead of the normal oil base we normally see used. I don't know that I'll do anything more then add wheels/tires and an interior and leave it a curbside. There are a few pinholes that need to be filled and the body rough sanded to get past the baby blue paint. Do any of you have any knowledge of which resic caster was producing this body and aprox when they were making them? Thank you for any information Fletch

Roy, normally I'd say chop it as stock height builds from my bench are pretty rare. But, after looking at your WIP photos I'd be tempted to leave it the way it is. From the view in this photo it doesn't need anything else but paint! Hosted on Fotki BTW, good to have you back hacking and whacking plastic.

I hadn't really noticed until I posted these photos this evening how prominent the cowl vent is on this build, it's no different then any other '32 Sedan just for some reason seems to stand out here more then I've ever noticed before. It would seem like a good candidate to get opened up, after all the top did. This may turn into one of those builds where after a period of time you finally say "Enough" and announce that it's finished.

Thank you all for your input. There was several responses that wanted the roof opened up and only a couple calling for a suicide front end. After a short bout with the circular saw blade in the Dremel here is what it now looks like: The front frame horns have been thinned in preparation for "unboxing" them. The next step is to reduce the height by .010 on the top and bottom which will allow the upper and lower frame rail to be added using .010X.156 Evergreen. Dennis, you mentioned that you had a problem with the EFI system that I had proposed to use in the Sedan Delivery. That the fuel runners were hanging in mid air with no connection to the manifold. Your statement validated how I was beginning to feel about the EFI from the '41 Woodie. This evening the EFI got popped off the flathead and hopefully the scratch building effort over the next few days will result in something that looks like this. Hosted on Fotki Thanks guys for your input. What do you think of the roof on the chopped/channeled version now that it's opened up?

The further I get into the build of the 3rd of the '32 Sedans the more I am looking at possible styling changes. So, I have a couple of questions for you guys. Would you leave the roof solid, like it had been filled or would you open it up like the insert were removed? On the front axle would you leave it be using the stock '32 crossmember or hang it out the front using a suicide mount? What do you think on both questions as I'm somewhat torn on both so I'm seeking your input. Here's some update shots of the chopped/channeled Sedan: Here's what the chassis looks like sans the body. The rear end has been widened to allow the tires to sit outside the body and will be mounted on a 4 link suspension. The rear of the chassis is set so if need be I can "C" notch it to drop the back end down even further. Hosted on Fotki Looking forward to your input.

We have 2 major hobby shops in the Portland Metro area and the numbers are about the same at both. 50% Revell, 25% Tamiya, Fujimi, Hasagawa, 10% Lindberg and 15% AMT. It's hard to justify the shelf space when the customers aren't buying the product. The damage the RC2 did with determining which kits to release and no product development did nothing to bring AMT back into the prominence it once had. Hopefully Round2 can correct the years of seeming lack of interest by RC2's management and turn the company back around.

It's obvious after reading the newspaper account and watching the video that there is a lot more going on here then just the surface issues that the media choose to report. Both the print and visual reports were meant to discredit those at the city and everyone else involved with Ted being portrayed as just another victim of a Government out of control. There are always 2 side to each and every story, and the truth lays somewhere in between. Ted's story is happening across the nations every day and it's brought to our attention because a single reported had an axe to grind with the city IMHO. If it weren't for the fact that Ted builds model cars would we even care one way or another? Ted's story would be just another person who got caught up in a sub-prime mortgage that couldn't pay when the bottom fell out. We'd shrug our shoulders and say he should have known better, and be glad it's not us. From the looks of the house I can understand the cities concern. Not only do they have to be concerned for the safety of the tenant but for the safety of any city employee who might have to visit the house ie: Police, Fire etc. The one question I keep asking myself is, if you were sitting in your home with the doors boarded over and you knew that someone was on the way to get you out why would you 3 weeks later be trying to find your check book? Personally, it would have been one of the things I made sure I had before leaving the first time. But, then I wasn't there and can only state what I would have done.

I fully understand your disappointment with the 2+2. I picked it up several years ago as part of the Prestige Series and my reaction was like yours. Back to the box it went for several months while I worked on projects worthy of my time. Eventually, it resurfaced and ended up with the top dropped around 4" and slammed to the ground. The use of the custom parts from the GP make a world of difference in the look and attitude of that body. I like what you've got going there, keep us posted on your progress.

I'm not sure that is your color Jeff, I always figured you looked better in darker colors. Sorry, partner, sometimes being a smart A** is just to easy. The Willys is looking great, it's coming together very well. If it turns out to be the quality of the last one, we all get to fight for the Second place award. Great Work as Always, but then we expect nothing less, (No Pressure)

Very Cool Lyle, I like where you're headed with this one, contemporary yet very traditional. Which hood are you using for this build? As I have yet to find a hood in my stash that will fit the JF body. You're considerably farther on yours then I am on mine as I only have the fenders primed.

Dennis, that's the fun of this hobby you can take a great platform and go wild. The side window fillers were no real problem as I used a masking tape master on the .030 Evergreen to cut/file to size. The rear door was a bit more of a challenge, I used a rear door from a Revell '31 Sedan Delivery to get the width and height and free-handed the corners. The drip rail was a matter of warming some Evergreen .020 square and shaping around the curvature of the upper door. The hinges were a matter of cutting Evergreen .060X.125 to length and adding to the body, the center hinge needed to have a curve in it's base so it would fit around the belt rail. Once the cement had cured they were filed to shape. Somewhere around 4-5 hours for the conversion. Managed to get all the sparkly stuff added today, the engine still needs to be wired. The engine is taking a bit longer then I expected as I want to add as much of the EFI wiring as possible, most likely it will get a wire to each injector and perhaps some linkage to the throttle bodies. Here is how it looks after today's thrash: Hosted on Fotki More to come as the engine progresses.

I would have to totally disagree with Pete. I've had similar problems in the past and using a combination of Tamiya Fine then Finish compounds the the smudges were removed. Granted that portion of the body did indeed become very shiny. So the worst part is you go over the entire body with the Finish Compound so the patch you had the smudges on doesn't stand out. Just use caution as you are removing paint even with the Finish Compound and you can find yourself rubbing through to the primer underneath.

I would have to agree with Harry. If you wanted to build any version of Revell's '32s factory stock at this point you'd have to combine it with AMT's '34 5 Window coupe in order to get close to the way the car rolled off the assembly line. Give us a true 2n1 kit. Not that I'm going to boycott the '32 5 Window, but stock pieces would be fantastic to have as well. Dave, you are 100% correct about the wheels and tires from the '29 and '31, give us those as a separate parts pack. I don't need anymore '29 pickups bought just for the tires and wheels.

I'm thinking along the same lines as Bernard, narrowed Body with the 4 banger from the Revell '31 Sedan with all the speed goodies sure sounds like a fun build. I'm down for at least 1 of each, keep us posted.

George, I totally agree with Harry. Use a clear 2 part epoxy like PermaPoxy from Permatex. It is all I use for final assembly and it works beautifully. Make sure you check both side of the epoxy dispenser as most of the stuff sold in the hardware department is not clear and will cure with a yellow tint. I have found the PermaPoxy only in the automotive section of most big box stores.

Just a gentle reminder to all you Pacific NorthWest members the Billetproof Washington 2009 model contest is coming to the South West Washington Fairgrounds in Chehalis on Saturday June 27th. Gates open at 9am entry deadline is 2pm with awards at 4pm. The Billetproof Washington is a 2 day show but the Model Contest is Saturday ONLY! Admission to the event is $10 per person, there is no charge to enter the Model Contest. Awards to be given in 20 Classes as well as Peoples Choice and Best of Show. If you have questions about the Model Contest contact me either by PM here or email saba.northwest@gmail.com. If you have questions about the Billetproof event please email info@billetproof.com. Hope to see you there on the 27th!

I agree completely Mike, I clean mine with Lacquer Thinner just as I do the bottles. I have never had a problem with cross contamination of the paint. I've managed to drop them and they fall into the Bermuda Triangle never to be found again but, never a problem with cleaning them,

Thank you guys for all your compliments, I pray that all the builds that come from my bench look as good as the Sedan Delivery. Believe me there are a lot more false starts then top notch finished projects. If I'd had a clue the SD was going to look as good as it does it would have been the first of the trio completed. Raul, you are so right the only limitation there is to this kit is your imagination. I am seriously considering combining the Revell '32 Sedan and the AMT '34 5 Window Coupe stock pieces to see how good it could look in stock trim. Way to much racing on TV today to get the Sedan Delivery completed this afternoon/evening so it will be by early in the week. Again guys, thank you for your kind words and encouragement, it is greatly appreciated and helps drive the builds. YBiC Dave

The other 2 '32 Sedans are now up over on the bench, here is the link to the post: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...mp;#entry184140