Art Anderson

And, if you have a problem finding Westley's, be advised that the active detergent ingredient in Bleche-White is "trisodium phosphate" (aka TSP), and that is also available in good old "Spic N Span", the powdered cleaning agent found in just about every cleaning supplies aisle in supermarkets and "big box" stores. In addition, TSP can be found in just about any paint or home improvements store--it's also used for lifting silicone polishes (Johnson's Pledge) out of wood prior to refinishing. Art

From my perspective, I find the commonly available hobby tweezers to be far too long, too cumbersome to be of much help--so I generally rely on the old-fashioned, about 3" tweezers with the flat, square or angled tip which is formed to a flat mating surface on the inside surfaces. Now, even those tend not to be completely mating, often being ground at a slightly "off angle" so that they don't close evenly all over. My solution has been to take a piece of 400-grit sandpaper, gently scribe the back side with a #11 blade and straight edge (scribe, but do not cut through the paper backing!), then fold that sandpaper back, tightly with a bit of CA glue on the paper surface. When set up, this gives me a two-sided, flat bit of 400-grit that is straight and flat. I simply close those tweezers gently against the double sided sandpaper I just made, and sand the mating faces of the tip until they close precisely. A couple of weeks ago, while in Walgreen's, I stopped by the cosmetics department, picked up a pair of stainless steel pointed tweezers, like women use to pluck their eyebrows, and those work just great for handling very small parts. Inexpensive too, like only a couple of dollars or so. Art

I've never noticed any difference between using hobby paints on resin castings (although I would wonder about the adhesion of say, water-borne paints such as Modelmaster Acryl or Tamiya's waterborne enamels) and automotive lacquers and enamels. For me, just about any enamel or lacquer works just fine on a resin body. Art

Modelmaster Metalizers come in two types, "Buffing" and "Non-buffing". IIRC, the concept of "Metalizing" paints began with the English hobby paint mfr Humbrol, in the mid-1970's. Monogram Models offered, for several years in the late 70's/early 80's Humbrol Metalizers in the same little tinlets, but with Monogram-Humbrol labeling. Somewhere along the way, I think Testors managed to either buy the formula from Humbrol, or perhaps they either cloned it, or came up with their own. But I digress: It appears to me that Modelmaster (and indeed Humbrol) buffing metalizers behave, once dry, very much like the so-called "Metallic Wax" finishes which came on the craft market about 1968 or so. You could wipe that stuff on a plastic model, just as you would ordinary paste wax, except that this stuff had very finely ground metal powder in it, which you could buff out to an almost mirror finish. It seems to me that this is what the Metalizer buffing paints may well be, as you can polish those gently and they will come up with a rather bright sheen, close to that of polished metal. The non-buffing metalizers do not have that "polishability" however, but rather they give a grainy metallic surface that lacks any sort of glossy carrier as one might expect in say, a metallic automotive lacquer or enamel. That gives a raw, unfinished, unpolished finish that gives a hint of say, raw cast metal. Art

Chevrolet engines, from at least the mid-1920's through 1952 were a somewhat dark gray (Modelmaster US Navy Engine Gray--the color used on Navy radial piston engine crankcases--is a very close approximation of that gray color. In 1953, with the introduction of the "Blue Flame" version of the Chevy 6 cylinder light truck engine, for use in passenger cars with Powerglide, and of course in the Corvette, were Chevrolet Engine Blue, while the smaller 216cid engines still retained the gray color IIRC). Starting in 1954, from my reading, all Chevrolet passenger car 6 cyl. engines were 235 Blue Flame, and painted blue all the way out to the last 235's installed in 1962 full size Chevy's. Truck engines remained gray, both 6's and V8's for a number of years, I think out to about 1961 or 62. Art

I remember the Lesney/AMT '70 Challengers all too well--I got the call to do the original box art models for both the HT and Convertible, all from test shots, and they were pretty bad, to say the least! It was pretty obvious to me that those two kits got designed DOWN to a budget, and not UP to a standard, frankly. And the convertible top boot on the Challenger--way way off! Art

It shouldn't be all that hard to build a model of one of the Jeeps from "Rat Patrol"--if they were true WW-II Willys MB's, either Italeri or Hasegawa would work, and if they were made up for the studio, more than likely they were CJ-2A's or surplus Korean War vintage M38's, in which case the MPC "WW-II or "Hogan's Heroes" Jeep would be my call, as that kit is buildable as either the M38 (which was a militarized CJ-2A) or just use the CJ version of the kit. Of course, it would be nice to have correct decal markings though. Art

Another good use for Thumb Drives! Art

I want to say that the color breaks were at the bottom of the A-posts, around the base of the top, where it met the beltline and tulip panel, and following the drain moldings that go up and over the quarter windows and doors, but I might be a bit incorrect there. For a really definitive answer, you might log on to the website of AACA (Antique Automobile Club Of America). AACA's forums have one that covers the era of Merc's you are asking about. Now you will have to sign up as a member of the forums (it's totally free of charge, and easy to do--so do that with no worry!), and once you've been accepted (which is as close to instantaneous as instantaneous gets, BTW), scroll down to the appropriate topic area for your Mercury. Ask the very same question there, and I would bet that within 24-48 hours, someone will give you the correct answer! I've used AACA's forums for asking questions regarding several model car projects I was building--most helpful they are! Something to consider here: Ford Motor Company, as with the likes of GM and Chrysler, had a pattern, from the early 30's until about 1950, of introducing what were called "spring colors", meaning that they came out at about the midpoint of the model year. Those colors may show up on autocolorlibrary.com. Art

Parking meter enforcement duty, most likely. Art

I've felt like the "odd-ball" for years, given that I've been using gap-filling CA glues for most of my assembly work, and for filling shallow areas for almost 30 years now, ever since the gap-filling CA glues became available (IIRC, that was in either 1985 or 1986). About the same time, I discovered CA glue accelerators, liquids that will "kick" CA to solidify virtually instantly. I've used, at some time or another, just about every gap-filling brand of CA that's out there, including the Loctite once, in a pinch, but prefer SuperJet from Goldberg Models (part of the Hobbico/Tower Hobbies/Great Planes company) for one simple reason: The ready availability of fine-tip applicator nozzle extensions that are available to fit the Goldberg bottles: Bob Smith Industries BSI-1302. I've found that many hobby shops having a well-stocked RC department sell Goldberg Jet-series CA glue, and the BSI applicator tip extensions. If not, Tower Hobbies stocks both these items, at prices, with shipping (USPS) that are about the same as hobby shops carry them--of course, by mail there is a bit of a lead time, but whenever I've ordered this stuff from Tower, it's taken only 2-3 days (Champaign IL, their location, is about 100 miles or so from me--but shipping farther distances doesn't add a terrible time lag--just plan a ahead. As for getting CA to adhere well, especially to brass wire or rod stock inserted into any sort of drilled hole--"roughing" up the surface helps immeasureably--I use a folded piece of used 400-grit for that. It doesn't take but very little pressure--not enough to bend or kink fine K&S brass rod stock, just enough to put a few minute scratches across the surface. Believe me, that allows CA to "grab" the wire and hold it more than securely enough to keep it in place. I do use the stuff for filling gaps between parts that otherwise don't fit tightly, unused locating holes, even the depressions left from "ejector pins" even after sanding away the high spots that often accompany them. I've used Micro-balloons with CA, but anymore, I don't bother unless the area to be filled is fairly deep, as straight CA I've found, files and block-sands pretty easily--it's only slightly harder than the surrounding styrene, and once sanded smooth and painted over, is about as good as good gets--invisible once painted and finished. Art

I got my first pocketknife for Christmas when I was 8, and along with it, LONG lessons from Dad on the proper sharpening AND handling & using that knife. Back in the 50's, nearly every boy, by 3rd or 4th grade had a pocketknife in their jeans pocket at all times (unless confiscated by a parent due to some transgression), and yes, pretty much every one of us drew some of our own blood with them. That small pocketknife was my only modeling knife until I was about a senior in HS, when I sprang for my first Xacto--Mom had a fit, then ORDERED me to NEVER let my then year-old nephew even see it (and I did not, until he was about 9 or 10). Some things are only leanred by doing, with all the risks involved, I guess. Art

I hear ya there, Bill! Long, LONG overdue! Art

Except that John Walton's "pickup" was actually a 1929 Model AA 1-ton Express Pickup--heavy truck chassis, 131 1/2 inch wheelbase, 9' pickup box, single split rim wheels with 6:00-20 truck tires. As for John-Boy's Model A roadster, you can that one out of the AMT kit. Now, Ike Godsey's '32 Ford 1/2 ton panel delivery would be a hoot to have in kit form--think of the possibilities for that one BEYOND the TV vehicle! Of course, there are a whole bunch (over 50 years' worth across how many movies?) of James Bond cars (and even some of the villains' rides as well) that would make great model kits! Art

Or bright green plush fabric.

What Harry said! I've found HL stores here in Indiana to be an excellent source for hobby tools--just a walk through their jewelry-making supplies will turn up small pliers, even small side-cutters that I find FAR better than the Xuron/Testors/Tamiya parts nippers, for example. In addition, all manner of needle-nose pliers that are of excellent quality for what we model car builders do. And in the beadwork area? All manner of gauges of soft copper and soft brass wire--I've used a fair amount of that for wiring and plumbing engines and chassis. Harry's correct about HL stores being somewhat different from city to city, as well as regions. Like most all Big Box store chains, they do tend to tailor their stores to what they perceive the local market to be, so I'm not surprised that some of their stores don't stock model kits (even though my local HL does. It's not a subsistute for a good LHS, but it sure can be a supplement. Art

Pretty damned nice build! A thumbs up! Art

Nonetheless, The question is what gets ignored (omitted), and I've laid out a list, most of which I have neglected to do, for whatever reasons! Art

Coming along--a couple of issues with the body shells still to be resolved.

Talk about a can of worms here! Missed details (and I confess to them, OK?) 1) Wheels: Valve stems AND valve caps, along with wheel weights (you know, those lead weights for balancing wheels!) 2) Exhaust hangers--those extensions which keep exhaust pipes and mufflers from simply rattling loose and dragging on the pavement! 3) The wires hooking up headlights and turn signals 4) Gearshift linkages 5) headlight and other underhood wiring harnesses 6) Speedometer cables 7) Tail light wiring 8) brake lines, including the flexible hoses from frame or body to backing plates 9) emergency/parking brake handles at the dashboard 10) gearshift linkage 11) Clutch and brake pedal linkage 12) Fuel lines from tank to fuel pump, fuel pump to carburetor 13) Power steering lines 14) Brake lines (even ,master cylinders and the lines from that!) to wheel cylinders 15) PCV lines 16) Underhood wiring harnesses in general 17) On opening doors, the rather thin (no more than 3/8 inch edges of the door skin rolled and crimped. 18) Door lock buttons 19) Headlight wiring inside front fenders 20) Hood latches and hinges 21) Front seat adjustment levers when opening the doors]] 22) B- and C-pillar shapes when opening doors 23) headliner shapes ] 24) Internal windshield/back glass/door and quarter window reveals 25) Dome lights when the kit does not include them 26) Vacuum lines for cars having vacuum-operated windshield wipers 27) Windshield wiper motors on the likes of Model A's through 1936 Fords 28) Mechanical brake pull rods and cross-shafts of stock Model T's and Model A's 29) Speedometer cable 30) Rotary door lock details 31) Black rubber windshield wiper elements 32) Choke cables 33) Heater control cables 34) Air conditioner lines 35) Power steering hydraulic lines 36) Heater lines 37) Temperature instrument line 38) Oil pressure line 39) Ammeter wire 40) Automatic transmission dipstick 41) Engine oil dipstick 42) Heater hoses 43) Exhaust pipe/muffler clamps 44) Exposed headlight and taillight wiring on pre-1935 cars 45 Horns on cars which model kits omit them (and the wiring) 46) Bijur chassis oiling systems on Classic luxury cars that had them 47) Leather or metal "wraps" on leaf springs for luxury cars from the 20's and 30's 48) Underhood wiring harnesses in general 49) Ignition wires to ingition coils 50) Wires to generator or alternator I've probably missed a bunch, so feel free to add to the list! Art

First of all, a brand-new Xacto #11 blade (that's never been used for anything else!) is an absolute must. Second, you might try holding the knife handle so that the cutting edge of the blade is as a rather shallow angle to your work--that's how I've trimmed BMF since it first came out about 1971 or so. Art

Or, much like a so-called "clean room", where even those working in it have to wear absolutely clean coveralls, with respirators, goggles, special gloves, and covers over their street shoes, right? Art

From what I'm told, just now going to tooling--it won't be long! Art

FWIW, Leno has a large and very nice website devoted to his garage as well--very worth visiting! Art

Pete, I hear what you are saying, however, the space I have allotted to my spray painting (airbrushing) area is not much larger than a moderately sized walk in closet--in other words, it really doesn't take a 2-car garage to have room to paint model cars. Art