Brett Barrow

How were the Firebird decals? I have a set of their 69 Camaro Pace Car decals on the way.

Maisto die-cast?

Don't know what happened there, but I can't edit my last post and it cut out my answer and photo. Stupid Internet Explorer, I'm sure... Just the deep part behind the "vent" is separate.

Wow, that's gorgeous! Nice and clean replica stock, paint detailed, great use of different sheens of black under the hood. Stunning. Please post more of your work!

Very cool, but what else would you expect from a Tom Daniel kit? Revellogram did an "RC Cola" edition back a few years ago:

One of my neighbors has a Henry J with Americans that he used to drive pretty often, but I haven't seen it move for a couple years. It's in grey primer with a black fiberglass front end and the wheels are dull, but it's still a bad looking ride. Your excellent model has a very similar stance, it's pretty much what his would look like cleaned up and painted.

Fujimi.

Late summer, last I heard.

Some crappy cell phone pics of the side panel showing both building versions, and the tires and steelies (baby moons are optional). Despite the instruction goof, the kit is accurately represented on the side panel.

Yep, they're in there, the other building option is a dual carb setup. It's pretty much a straight reissue of the Pro Modeler kit, except for the set of cut-and-fold luggage the PM had on the decal sheet. I think the original PM might have had a second set of tires, this one only has the de-branded Goodyear Power Cushions, now with tampo-printed whitewalls. The 59 had more modern options including big-inch wheels, a modern fuel-injection setup and radiator with electric fan.

Tamiya's was a 500SEC. The Revell is the same as Fujimi, not sure which company actually tooled it.

Guess some folks have never made a mistake...

BTW, Mr. Reusser posts often on the Finescale RR board, here's a SBS he did on the Ford P/U which is an addendum of information that was not published in the AK book. http://www.finescalerr.com/smf/index.php?topic=2277.0 There is a lot of great weathering work on the Finescale RR board.

Well, assuming the 71 Challenger in this video is painted accurately, there doesn't appear to be much difference but the new paint does have a different color flake in it and gives of a different "glow" in bright light. http://youtu.be/uG8QDGrtKEQ

Revell GmbH Headquarter Henschelstraße 20-30 D 32257 Bünde www.revell.de

I think the best I've ever seen at "civilian" weathering is Marc Reusser. He built this 50 Ford P/U that's on the cover of and featured inside the AK Interactive Extreme Weathered Vehicles book. I believe his background is in railroad modeling, those guys have some hyper-realistic weatherers, too. His use of contrasting gloss levels on wet and fresh grease and oil is just amazing.

It's generically known as "kabuki tape". I use the yellow Frogtape (available at Wal-Mart) it is very close to Tamiya tape. Shurtape also sells a kabuki tape known as Razor Edge Gold CP-60.

They made a few, about 10 years ago, they were distributed in the US but not in very large numbers. (I worked for the company that distributed them at the time). They're out of production now, but pop up on eBay. 1/850 Enterprise refit (later reisssued as Enterprise-A with decals for sister ships) 1/850 Enterprise NX-01 1/1700 Enterprise-E 1/850 Voyager (last of the line, very rare) Aoshima also made a very similar pre-painted and lighted 1/2000 kit of the Enterprise-D

Cool. My grandfathers both supported my modeling by buying me models, but since they weren't modelers themselves we never sat down and worked on kits together. I tried to get one granddad into modelling, but he didn't had the patience for it. He bought a couple of kits for the flea market and ended up giving them to me. Start 'em young!

Japanese pronunciation is very simple compared to English. There's only 5 vowel sounds in Japanese, it's not like English with its "long" and "short" vowels, dipthongs, schwas, etc.. I think there are something like 17 different vowel sounds in English. "i" always makes an "ee" sound. Everybody knows how to say "sushi" properly, and it's not "sue-shy"! To me, native Japanese speakers sound like they're saying "Tommy-uh" when saying Tamiya.

They'd be crazy not to offer a 426 (Hemi and/or Wedge) in at least one version. The 318 Poly would be cool and make this kit a prime kitbashing parts donor, like the Lindberg Belvedere with its Slant 6. This is the first kit they've done that really gives them multiple engine possibilities.

Yep, all our distributors are showing it cancelled as well. Maybe someone will step up and do a new tool kit? There's certainly plenty of interest.

It can be done, I have no doubt (I use CA on aircraft canopies all the time if I need to fair them into the fuselage), but I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner. I use BSI's accelerator, too. I've found it to be totally plastic safe, other brands can haze the plastic - especially clear. Was just trying to give some noob-friendly advice. There's a million and one ways to skin a cat in this hobby, and every time somebody tells you not to do something, someone will come along and tell you that they do it with no problem. In short: with practice and experience you can violate pretty much any modeling "rule".

Then I wouldn't use super glue, I'd start with regular plastic cement type glues, they're slower and give you time to re-position parts. I don't use them on clear, they will eat into the clear plastic if you get any where you don't want it. I use a white glue like Elmer's for clear (to be specific, I use a hobby-specific brand called Micro Kristal Klear, it's sort of like Elmer's on steroids). I use Tamiya Extra Thin (green cap) for most assembly and regular Tamiya Cement (orange cap) for when I need more working time. It's pretty much like tube cement in a bottle. I've been using liquid cements for a long time, but lots of builders prefer tube cement. There's no right or wrong way, it just comes down to personal preference. Learn the basics with cement glues, then you can switch to the instant-type CA glues after you get basic assembly down. As a beginner you're bound to get the wrong part glued in the wrong place (I still do), cement glues give you the chance to fix that. When gluing painted or chrome parts, be sure to scrape the paint or chrome off the gluing surfaces when using cement glues (really should do that with any glue)