Romell R

Dave dont get me wrong at all I think this body is outstanding would I buy another? You bet I will!! Will I buy the next one you design??? Yes sir!! I only want to stress to people to be prepaired to do body work . Was it worth the money I spent on it?? Yes every cent.

Like Dave stated these another material you can get that prints in an even higher detail but it will cost you almost twice as much (263.00 before tax and shipping) and its more fragile.

Bart You my friend Like myself are a connoisseur of model building which is the reason why we put down the money to buy this outstanding body.

That last link was helpful thank you!

The fire bottles are at the front of the chassis. Pro Mod Chris

Hey felles I could use a little help with this. Ive been all over the world wide web looking to photos of the fire supression system in drag cars , Ive come up short. If anyone has photos of how the system is hooked up it would be a huge help to me. thanks in advance for any help you may be able to provide. Romell

Pro Mod Once described as Pro Stock cars on steroids, Pro Mod cars have become a popular addition to NHRA events through the Get Screened America Pro Mod series. Pro Mod cars are full-bodied, left-hand driver vehicles which are very loosely based on production models. They also feature supercharged, turbocharged or nitrous oxide equipped engines that allow them to run deep into the five-second zone at speeds of over 258-mph. Colorfully painted and wholly unpredictable, the Pro Mod class is reminiscent of the early days of Funny Car racing. A large part of Pro Mod’s appeal stems from the wide variety of body styles that are favored by competitors. Those bodies include everything from early model Chevy Camaros and Corvettes to late model Dodge Stratus and Ford Mustang replicas. Since there are few rules governing aerodynamic enhancements, Pro Mod cars often feature radical body modifications including stretched wheelbases and oversized rear spoilers. Under the current rules, Pro Mod engines can be either supercharged, turbocharged, or utilize nitrous oxide, with differing weight breaks for each combination in an effort to assure a level playing field. Currently, nitrous oxide equipped engines have no cubic inch limit and can run at 2,425 pounds. Supercharged vehicles are limited to 526-cubic inches and must weigh at least 2,650 pounds and turbocharged cars can have 540-cubic inches and may weigh no less than 2,650 pounds. Similar to the powerplants found in Top Alcohol Funny Cars, a competitive Pro Mod engine can produce in excess of 3,200 horsepower. Most Pro Mod racers use a three-speed planetary-type transmission and an adjustable multi-disc clutch, which helps them tune the car to suit track conditions. While a Pro Mod chassis resembles a Pro Stock frame, there are significant differences since the Pro Mod car must be built to handle nearly twice the horsepower of a Pro Stock car. As a result, double frame rails are mandatory and there is also extra bracing required in the rear suspension and engine compartment. Although the chassis design also shares some similarities with a Funny Car, a Pro Mod car must use a full automotive-type suspension with springs and shock absorbers on all four corners. Any size rear tire is allowed and most racers opt to use a bead-lock system to secure the tire to the wheel. There are many safety related requirements for Pro Mod racers including duel parachutes, an on-board fire suppression system, and a fire suit for the driver meeting SFI 3.2A/20 specs. Pro Mod Fast Facts In 2011, Troy Coughlin Sr., drove his turbocharged JEGS.com Chevy Camaro in the Get Screened America Pro Mod Series. Troy was also the only driver to qualify for all ten races in 2010. Having run in the five-second zone on numerous occasions, Troy is officially the quickest member of the Coughlin family. His father, Jeg Sr., raced in Top Fuel in the late 1970s but his career best pass is in the 6.0-second range. Troy’s best speed of 255-mph is also the fastest for a member of the JEGS team. The current performance record for Pro Mod is 5.772-seconds by Melanie Troxel at the 2011 Englishtown event. Troxel also holds the speed record with a 258.71 performance at the same event. The Pro Mod class can trace its roots to the Pro Stock match races and Quick 8 events that were popular at Southern tracks during the 1970s and 1980s. At many tracks, rules were difficult to enforce, so the rules were relaxed and motto became, “Run whatcha brung”. The Pro Mod class has worldwide appeal as it is currently thriving in North America, Australia, Europe, and in the middle east Heres a link to the original artical http://teamjegs.com/thecars/promod.asp

Well lets see. 9 is the highest grade I could give it considering nothing is perfect. The price is a good one for those who can afford it. I rated it a 4 because I figure thats close to half of the 9. You must keep in mind not everyone is gonna want to pay close to 200 bucks for a model body. This is like caviar its an aquired taste. And as far as shipping goes I had mine sent to the West Coast. it wasnt shipping it was tax. everything ships from them for $6.50 anywhere in the USA.

Made for a good evening last night thats for sure

Oh Man I cant wait to see the candy laid down on this one....

I have most of what I need to get started , but I'm gonna build a good jig this time one that's adjustable

hey Jack the window perimeter is there but it's in scale so that makes it very thin and shallow. $500.00 I stopped counting at $900.00 and that was a long time ago lol!

Wow Chris is been almost a year since you started this project, Man how time flys. Hmmmm.... it'll be a year in may for my project too LOL! hopefully I'll be done in time to come to your neck of the woods April 21st.

Check it out fellas the 69 promod body from TDR/Shape ways showed up on my door step today. Let me say first off the scale & design is outstanding The Body lines are crisp and all there. the thickness is the closest Ive seen to scale yet. It comes in 5 pieces main body, hood and fenders, two doors and trunk lid. Now because it is developed from a 3D printer it comes to you a tad bit grainy to the touch , but with some careful (and I mean very careful) body work this little puppy can be work into a champion. Keep in mind that because of that this body isnt for the beginner , im probably gonna put atleast 20 hours into it to get it paintable. the price tag weighs in at about $191.00 shipped. So if you buy one please dont expect to get a Revell quality boby (actually this is better IMO) and be ready to get down and dusty. So if im gonna rate this on a scale of 1- 10 Design: 9 In scale: 9 quiality: 9 Price: 4 buildability: 7

Oh man look what just showed up at my door! ......... Thats Right the 1/16th promod body fromTDR/Shapeways im gonna post up more pics of this in a differant thread and talk about it a bit more....

Nice to meet you guys too

You'll probably have to take the glue off cause its gonna burn , and the soldering part is pretty simple , its alot like eletrical soldering. Make sure you have flux to flow into the joints then put some solder on your hot iron and touch it to the joint the solder should flow into the joint and make a solid connection for you. It'll take a few trys but you'll get the hang of it. Check out my Promod build (the link is in my signature) and you'll see the brass chassis I built. Have fun with you new project.

Ok so were back and the next piece I had to make will be attached to the throttle cable so I needed an "L" lever I used the solder again and used the same proceedure to make it. this is before I cut it away and final shaped it... I had to make one more bracket that will hold the whole assembly together also made form solder... ok here the pieces comming together.... Here you can see it all put together Now I just need to find some 1/16th scale throttle cable , Cya on the next one

Joe thats why we post here in the forums so others can learn from what we know. Thx for your compliment buddy. Chris is been a long journey for sure im kinda sad its comming to an end .....no im not! Hey fellas I have a small update .....well not really small cause its gonna take a few post but I mean small in the size of the parts LOL! Anyway I needed to make the throttle linkage so heres what i did. I used solder to make most of the parts for this because its solt but sterdy and easy to form Using my neddle nose I flated a small piece of solder to the size I needed it to be.... Then it was drilled and a slit was cut into it with an exacto blade ...... heres the final piece after hardware was added...... ok the next piece is in the next section......

Hey youre doing a good job so far, is that chassis a bit fragile? Looks like your building it with glue, Id like to make a suggestion if youre gonna build it from brass try soldering it together with silver solder, its not hard to learn and it will make that chassis your building solid as a rock. On the other hand if you must use glue try building it out of styrene. Its alot easier to work with.

Man thats very nice , you should post more pics of this one. I think I remember you starting this one about a year ago am I correct? I could be wrong.

Can you see why Im gonna wait on Daves carbs to be finished ?.... Outstanding Dave!! simply Outstanding!

Thanks Tyrone at this point im excited cause its almost done . Thanks Charlie Im tryin to keep up with ol pros like yourself

im impressed to say the least

Many thanks fellas x10 LOL! I have another update for ya enjoy.... Well since the chutes were done I have to make a deployment handle and the lines , also had to make a run to the hardware store to get some wire for the lines heres what i ended up with.... first i made a handle out of brass with my dremel tool, kinda like carving at 13,000 rpm LOL! handle in place in the hole I drilled back when I built the chassis , glad I did that when I did..... Added the lines ..... Ok im down to 5 things left to do to complete this build stay tunned Cya soon......