Carmak

This is the intake in the Baker NASCAR Charger kit. These were tough pics to get as the parts are still in the bags. The intake is part of the black "generic" parts and not part of the white Charger specific parts.

Swung by a local vintage shop yesterday and found this gem. Hardly cost more than a new kit. The body is a bone stock 72 Charger Hardtop with no door indents and not a Rallye like the MPC (Rod Shop) annual.

I will be in for a few of the Longnose Mustangs just for the chassis. I have a couple late 60's AMT Funny car bodies in need of a chassis and it should be straightforward to shorten the Longnose chassis.

Another kit to look at is the AMT 1960 Starliner. It is a bone stock kit but it is a highly detailed modern kit. Many people use the chassis/engine/floor pan from the 60 kit under the 64 body. If you decide you need any detailed chassis/engine/floor pan parts the 60 kits is the way to go.

What up-top did you use?

I will mask off the vinyl area and paint it with a "hot" paint that will slightly craze the plastic. I often strip this paint off lightly and sand before painting the correct color.

It is a "normal" kit and not a curbside/Craftsman kit. It is not a great kit, and I would not recommend it. It is worth the extra time and money to get a Revell 69 Yenko Camaro. I am not an AMT hater or a Revell lover however in this case the AMT (formerly MPC) Yenko is one of AMT's poorer kits while the Revell Yenko is one of Revell's best kits. This is a Revell Yenko I built years ago (I altered the wheels and stance to personal taste).

All the parts will interchange (except the warped ones ).

I got this gem from a friend last weekend. This has been on my list for a very long time.

Looks like the Wells museum might be permanently closed . Wednesday night might work on good for Grandy if I go on the correct every other week?

I was thinking this.

To my eye the AMT 64 Impala body has very good proportions. I feel the body proportions are better than the Revell 64 Impala body. There are a couple places prone to sink marks such as the trunk (above screw posts), and the upper front fender (opposite radiator support and firewall alignment tabs). The sink marks can be hit and miss. I recently picked up an original issue survivor with no sink marks at all. Hope this helps.

Very fine build Greg! On top of what other have said there are lots of subtle changes that really look good (Like removed wing windows and removed tailgate ribs with a spare hood emblem in their place). Also, very nice work blending everything where the roof, bed and body meet.

In May 2026 my wife and I are traveling in the area of: Portland, ME, Concord, NH, Springfield, MA, New Haven, CT, Providence, RI, Boston, MA. We are in the planning stage of the trip. What 1:1 car or model car events, museums, model shops, antique malls, etc.. should we go to? Thanks.

I found this gem at a local steam power show. Been looking for one for a long time. Additionally, I just saw the recent IPMS article so I will be reinforcing this beast with lots of brass rod.