impcon

Well, for what ever it is worth, I did get the dashboard with the model and I knew that the car was very incomplete. If you read my post carefully, you'll see that I am as upset ( or more ) with myself as much as with the seller. The auction photo shows the windshield sitting at an angle but I don't see how you can tell that the frame is as twisted as it is and a write off. The main purpose of the post is as said at the end - to hopefully help someone else not make the mistake that I did. I accept the blame for my short comings here.. and I admit that I did not do my due diligence here. I think that most will agree that the auction photo is a bit misleading. The shot of the rear of the car had nothing to do with tail lights - it is just another view of a screwed up windshield frame. I have learned my lesson - trust me.

Got this a few days ago along with some other purchases from the same Ebay seller.. I was totally frosted when I saw the condition of this car and it has taken me a few days to settle down to the point where I can post this without coming unglued.. In his item description he conveniently forgot to mention that the windshield frame is junk.. Some of the other stuff that I received from him was almost this bad but I stepped out and paid for this one.. $31.00! I really wanted this model and I threw caution and common sense to the winds...00 plus shipping. I should have known better - and looked a lot closer but my vision and perception wasn't all that great the day that I bought this.. I mean, it's as much my fault as his(hers?) I guess.. I am just hoping that maybe some one out there might learn something from my screw up and stupidity. his pictures are poor and his resposes to emails are usually one or two short sentances. Ebay's feedback system is crazy .. but it is really my fault for trusting someone. Needless to say, I'll never buy from that seller again no matter what he is selling. Sorry for whining..but here's the auction 's item description - " This is a 1/24 or 1/25 screw bottom 1966 ? Dodge Polara Convertible for parts or restore. Unsure of the scale and year. It will come with everything pictured. This is a plastic model kit. So when you get it it may have a few loose parts that will need to be reglued. It will be shipped in a plastic bag and wrapped in bubble wrap or peanuts and put in a cardboard box. Combined shipping on loose model kits are 7.75 for the first and 2.00 each after in the US." Here's the auction photo: and here's what it REALLY looks like here's what I received for $31.00 plus shipping.. This pretty much refects my feelings about this - All I can say is it was an expoensive lesson well learned, If anyone wants this sellers user ID, pm me and I'll send it to you. He or she sells a lot of models so you may want to know who to watch for..

This is one of the nicest builds of a '57 that I have seen! What else can I say except -

Nice build! Not my lind of car but that's cool.. looks great! A job well done!

Your build looks great! I like the colour and the stock appearance and I really like the subject. Nice and clean and uncluttered - as I like a model to be.. nice job!!! If this is your forst build, I can only imagine where you will go from here!

I've got a real yearnin' for a '67 Fairlane 500 hardtop .. and a convertible and wagon - a Country Squire and a non Squire version and a Ranchero... yeah yeah - I know.. you can't have everything.. but it don't hurt to dream does it? :lol:

Looks really ggod! Do you have p;ans for a 2 door - here's my real 1"1 '77 LTD - 460, auto and power everything.. It runs and rides like a dream - sure is hard on fuel but it's a nice ride. The car needs paint but other then that, not a lot. By the way, the marks on the bottom of the door and ahead of the rear wheel are not rust out - just some surface blemishes - the car has no body rot. It is actually VERY clean.. I have a good front bumper for it and some other parts - hopefully we'll get it painted this winter. Even though the paint is bad, the car still gets lots of compliments and looks and we love it! I know I have been whining about no one making 4 doors and wagons but I'd scoop one of these in a hardtop like mine in a heartbeat! Hmmmmmmm.. speaking of wagons.. *nudge, nudge - wink, wink* .. hint hint.. Seriously,, thanks for making this modell available.. I'll likely be getting one or two.

Hmmmmmm.. Interesting question.. I'll be watching this one..

SO is super clean a different product again and if so - who carries it? I have to ask because I was looking for Purple Power in the house cleaning section of Walmart - never thought tolook in the automotive section.. I'll try them both..

The thinners evaporate quicker than most reducers and you can use lacquer thinner with synthetic and acrylic enamels when painting 1:1 cars and trucks. It works but the paint will not hold it's shine as long as a reduced enamel will especially with hardners. I have used thinners with enamels for painting bumpers and wheels and it held up OK but a good shine is not that important on those areas - you really want almost a semi gloss. I agree that the nail polish really doesn't smell like lacquer - so I don't know for sure what it is.

Here'a a couple of pictures of the old '80 F350 that we are currently using around the place here.. I have a '56 IHC as well but I can not find any pictures of it even though I know that I have some. And kids, don't try this at home without adequate adult supervision.

What would be the issue with just letting this thread rub it's course? Just wondering. personally, I think it is a neat idea to just have pictures of unique old road warriors.. Just my thought...

Advanced Design COE Wrecker Now THAT is a swwetheart!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wow! What a neat build that would make. Old trucks are so neat and have so much character. Imagine if this one could talk.. She was in her prime back in the day before all the rules and regulations so one can only imagine some of the loads she's carried. She just sits there looking so cute and smug and ready to give her all one more time. With her visor pulled so low across the windshield, she looks like she's ready to just get out there and give 'er - get the job done! Yeah!! Man, I'd love to have that one sitting in my back yard. Imagine cruising the local cruise night in that? She'd turn some heads! I just have a real soft spot for old work trucks. Sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks guys! Hm... At either $7.00 or $4.00 per gallon, it sure is affordable enough. I do real 1:1 car painting too and this stuff would likely be great for stripping small automotive parts.. Thanks for the information. We checked at our local Wal Mart but we looked in the household cleaners and not in the automotive. I'll check there the next time I am in Penticton. Sounds like it may be as bad as Easy Off for fumes but it works out a lot cheaper. What's the shelf life of the product once the bottle is opened? Any ideas?

SOmeone was saying that as an alternative to Easy Off Oven Cleaner, he uses a product called "Purple Power". I have looked for it in grocery stores here inmy area but I can not find it. I find the fumes from Easy Off to be pretty wicked so I want to try an alternative and this stuff is supposed to work great. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I wish you well.. be good in there and don't harrass the nurses too much. My father in law has had three hip replacements and he did well through all of them. No silly - he doesn't have three legs.. one hip has been done twice.

that is indeed a sad testimony as to the state that our society is in. I truly fail to understand stealing - taking things that someone else has worked hard for - I just don't get it. I am glad to hear that they didn't get away with anything and hopefully, they'll get what they deserve at some point in the near future. The biggest part of that problem is that there are those who feel sorry for people like that and they will come up with all kinds of excuses why the person is a thief. I have had things stolen and it hurts.. and no one can justify theft IMHO - NO ONE! SOrry.. I feel a rant coming on.. best to shut up before I get sent to the corner. Thanks for the post..

I have taken it upon myself to ask several resin casters ( via email ) if they have ever considered doing a '59 four door wagon and only one has said that they may have one in the works and it will be a Nomad ( Impala series six passenger four door ). ANother caster has a '59 2 door "phantom" wagon available but I want a stock four door version. We have to be relentless in letting them know what we would like to see available and what we will purchase for them to really start considering some of the plain jane stuff. The Modelhaus has a really decent '59 sedan delivery and they have their 2 door wagon which is pretty decent except that the roof slopes off towards the back unlike the real car. They could make some improvements on that area plus the inside of the interior bucket at the tailgate - it slopes the wrong way. But I have one and I am not complaining. After all, it is the only decent thing on the market. Which leads me to ask - how difficult would it be to go to a four door wagon being as they already have two 2 door versions available? I agree with you about sharing tooling with the convertible and hardtop kits - it would likely save some serious dollars and wagons are popular these days - no0 question about it. Problem is that there are not enough real ones left to go around.. As for the old promos - yes, they are usually warped but a good one would make a good master for a resin body. Jimmy Flintstone has a '60 Nomad.. hmmm.. maybe he would do a '59 to go with that...

Hi Harry, I build cars and trucks and I collect planes and ships = but I have not built an airplane since the early '70's and that was a tiny Piper Cub that I used to have hanging from the rear view mirror of my '59 Impala convertible. The little thing got lots of comments about how cute it was. I think that as has been stated, there is a lot of knowledge to be gleaned and shared with other types of modelling - so a seperate category may be interesting and worth while. I am just getting back into building myself after a long time away and it is interesting to see the tools and modelling aids available now as opposed to when I was last building almost fifteen years ago. So I'd have to agree that we can only learn from the works and experiences of others and if we aren't interested - then don't look. Just my opinion....

That is VERY nice!!!!!!!!!!!!! But it is missing something - a set of whitewalll tires.. they'll really bring an added touch and most of those cars back then had them. You don't want wide whiotes - just a nice set of clean narrow ones to really make that black jump out at you. Just my opinion...

Well, I finally got the little truck cleaned up to where I had to put some primer on it so that i could really see what I was working with. I find the gray primer brings out the flaws big time and it shows me most of what will show once I put the paint on it. For the most part, I was pleased with my progress butthere are some glaring issues that need to be dealt with - we've still got a long ways to go. I have been side tracked on the '63 Mercury meteor so the truck has not been getting the attention it needs to make some real headway. No panic though because I am still waiting on the new chrome from The Modelhaus. So here's how everything that is primed so far looks as a whole.. The tailgate actually looks ten times better than I thought it would. As anyone who has tried to salvage an old glue bomb knows, a lot of damage can be done by using too much glue. Once the gate was all in one colour as opposed to the cream coloured plastic and the dark stains from the glue, I could see where there just may be hope for it. It's sure got a lof of pin holes in the plastic from the glue that held the louvers in place across the gate... The box floor has some challenges where stuff was glued onto it at one time - I am assuming the tools and tool box and who knows what all came with the kit originally. Not sure how I'll deal with this damage but we'll give 'er our best lick, as they used to say at the sawmill where I used to work. here's both sides of the cab 0 I am VERY happy with the way that it is turning out, I was worried about the fender script being too faint but it stands out nicely with the primer on it. There's no real damage anywhere that is worth talking about and the main part of the truck is going to clean up nicely I think. Here's the box back on the cab and box floor and I'm delighted! There's some minor work needed around each wheel opening from the fender skirts that the truck once wore and a tiny bit of work along the top of the box rail. All in all, she's a sweetheart.. Next steps are to start working on the glue damage, reprime and sand and reprime and sand. I still have some work to get rid of the mold line on the one side of the hood and there are some mold lines still in the cab but 80% of them are dealt with and gone. The interior will be serviceable - there is some glue damage on the gauge faces - I'lll have to see what I can do. I don't think that I ordered a new dash ( booting myself here - boot, boot, boot ) so I'll live with what I have unless it really doesn't clean up. Fortunately the glass is good aside from a couple of spots of paint. Once the cab and box are cleaned up somemore, I'll reprime the areas that I have worked on and then move onto the engine and chassis. My mm's truck had a 235 and I am thinking on going with one out of one of the newer kits. Or maybe I'll just keep this box stock. What do you guys think? I am not sure what I am going to do with the trailer either. I suppose that it should be redone too and stay with the truck. After all, they have been buddies for over half a century.. Again, what do you guys think? Hopefully the next photos will be in the next week or so.

A VERY pretty car - I knew a guy who had a real one - a '64, I believe it was. It had a 289 with a four speed and that thing flew! I rode in it and the interior really awed me with it's full instrumentation. All in all, a very seldom seen and IMHO highly under rated car that as said, was 'way ahead of it's time. As for the rest of your Uncle's collection - i wouldn't want to have to try to buy every one of those pieces on Ebay. I wasn't sure at first if the models were made to look like abandoned relics or if that was just dust.. I guess after reading your post again, it was just dust. They look sort of cool though.. very naturally aged..

I was away all day yesterday and didn't get anything accomplished but here is pretty much exacty what I want the finished product to look like.. even the colours are right!

I have heard of guys using nail polish to paint models and I am wondering what the pros and cons are of painting with it and if anyone can tell me what to use for thinning it for spraying with an air brush? ALso, what precautions should be taken as far as the spraying properties of the paint goes as to how heavy of a coat can be applied?? I was looking at Wal Mart today and there are some very nice colours available.. some are even close to several stock automotive colours that I recognize. I did pick up a blue that is close to a '63 Galaxie colour and I have a convertible that is waiting for paint. Another colour is close to the original Crown Sapphire used on '59 Chevrolet passenger cars. What would you use for a top coat or do you even need one if the final coat of nail polish is applied wet? Would real automotive clear coat work as a top coat or would Future floor polish be better? ? I believe that nail polish is actually lacquer and I'd be using commercial grade laquer primer under it if I was to use it. I have used lacquer primer many times before and when applied properly, it works well with no adverse effects on the plastic. The secret is to let it sit between coats long enough for the solvents to all eveaporate. So would I apply one coat of nail polish and then let the model sit overnight to allow the solvents to evaporate before applying the last coat? Any words of caution or advice will be appreciated.. Thanks in advance.

What is the best process and material to use for making castings of small, delicate emblems on a car or truck if you are concerned that painting the model will obliterate or nullify the emblem or script? I want to make castings of the body trim pieces and scripts on my '63 Meteor before I prime and paint. I figured that the best way to preserve those scripts and emblems is to make a mold before I do any painting - take a casting of each emblem and then cast it and attach the casting to the model after it is painted and then BMF it. Am I out in left field here with this thought or does it make sense? Any help or sugestions will really be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Gary