Dragline

My Mums lives about 10 adresses up the street. It's her row house so there's a basement. I painted the one that is still blushing, outside in the sun. It's not humid here, at least not that I can tell. This Duplicolor flashes very quickly. I'll let it dry overnight and spray it indoors in the basement. The furnace it in the room I spray in [when indoor spraying] and it's always dry there. This is a first for me. it's also the first time I've tried these can of touch up. The price is better than tamiya and there are many lovely colors available. I sprayed a REALLY wet coat and came home about 1-1/2 ago. It seemed like it was doing it less every time I put paint on it. It's a Funny Car so panel lines are not an issue, but I don't want it to start waving either. This paint really sits down nice and you cannot make it run. I even tried to make it run and it literally just built up on my test scrap. I'm going to go look at it shortly. I may take a few pics and post em. Thanks guys Bob

I used Duplicolor flat white primer, then one of those small cans of Duplicolor touch up. I got blush soon after on one body. I quickly re-sprayed and it's gone. I keep spraying the other and it's still blushing. Coats are [primer to color] about 20 min. Colors coats are wet in wet [as much as you can with this stuff, it dries soooo fast]. I'm thinking that i'll let the one that is still blushing to dry thoroughly before a final coat to avoid this, but the other one came back just fine. Thoughts? Bob F PS: If it's still blushed and I let it cure, if I clear it will it come back?

I have the SAE where either Terry Jesse or Tim Boyd do a build-up/review of this kit. I should dig that one out. I have the kit around here as well. I think I bought it new all those years ago. Yours looks swell. Bob F

That looks better than my first model, which was a Revell Bug Bomb. Keep on plugging away and you will be rewarded with better and better results. But to be honest, this is already pretty darn good. I'm impressed. Bob F

Beuatiful chop there dave. And getting one for 5.00 is wonderful..... Pocher kits? Gosh, I almost bought one some years ago while they were still in production. It was a cabover truck I think. 200 odd dollars if I recall. This is at the time when kits were still 7.00. Of course you are right when price cannot stand in the way of obtaining something. I'd seen these kits [Aurora 1/16 AA/FC's] in various states on eBay for 3 years before I had the right money at the right time to get one. I'd seen them go rather cheaply [say 200.00], to one guy asking 750.00 for an opened one! And he wouldn't commit to it being complete! I'll just say that I got it for more than 200.00 but a LOT less than 750.00. I've been gathering materials like braided lines and fittings for the last year getting ready for an epic Jungle Jim build. Pocher kits are out of my league... Harry clearly has a passion for those. Bob F

If I had to guess I'd say the tree contact points are to be painted black to represent the rubber sealing strip. Am I close? Bob F

Is that Carrera an "Enthusiast" kit? I love those. I built the Countach and a Dino years ago. In my Dads collection still. It looks like it due to those stripes in the box. Those Renwal kits are really rare. I know they are in good hands now. I got MY Holy Grail last year on eBay. Aurora VooDoo Vega 1/16 AA/FC still sealed. NEVER MIND what I paid.......................... Those are great finds though. Bob F

Must....Use.....Shades....To....View....... Sweet ride Bobf

SIMPLY STUNNING! PERFECT PAINT! STYLISH STANCE! EXCELLENT EXECUTION! Bob F

Truly beautiful Marcos. Not common. Bob F

Hmppphh, the only foreign car I have ever owned happened to be an 86 4000S. 2.0 5 speed. Cool car. Completely Volkswagon if I remember. I could swap VW parts that were waaaaay cheaper. Then, July 26th 1997, I got hit from behind at 60mph. Jaws of life to get me out. Not a scratch. Crumple zones I think. Audi models seem hard to come by. I'll watch this one. Bob F

Since I am from Massachusetts and root for that team in Red I will not comment. Congrats to the Yankees..... Bob F

I've been watching without comment till now. This is far from amateurish. It's looking top notch and the Gibson motor will be a great addition. I myself haveabout 6 of them and have yet to use one. But, I have a few scratchbuilt type drag cars coming up and they will get used. This build is coming along very nicely Bob F

Given Revell's near reverence [in the past] for Drag Racing subjects, I am confident I will be pleased. I cannot speak for the nitpickers of course. LOL Bob F

Harry, I believe that between the age of the subjects and the NHRA affiliation, Revell was able to go forth with these. I think that NHRA sanctioning covers quite a few things like additional licensing [within reason]. Coupled with the relative age of the subjects and we have NEW kits. If I'm not dead on I'm close I think. Bob F

Nice pix of the Chi Town chassis for those who are looking to accurately build this car. I'm not sure if I'd call those reissues with that tooling "improvements". I dislike 1 piece chassis as they tend to have square [on the inside areas] tubing instead of completely round. I myself would rather build up the chassis like they used to be so I can control certain things [iE: ride height and so forth]. I'm looking forward to seeing new HEMI's however. http://www.moparmax.com/events/2009/iv_7-mosley-1.html Enjoy Bob F

I agree, with these chassis the sky's the limit. The Jungle stuff seems a no-brainer as well as the USA-1 car. If not, at least we have resin. But I myself would rather it came all in one package. The future looks bright for nostalgic Drag Racing subjects. Bob F

I have not seen pix of the chassis, but I understand that there are two chassis versions coming out. One will be with the driver in the center as is/was traditional. The other chassis is based on the Chi Town Hustler, which is to say that the drivers is offset to the side a bit so he can see down the side of the hat and blower. This was adopted by quite a few teams of that time period. I'm not certain of the actual chassis maker but I saw a couple of them at the Funny Car Reunion race i went to a few years ago. I thought it odd as I'd never seen it before and talked to the owner where it was explained to me. Revell will do an excellent job you can bet on that. I'm getting a little antsy myself. Bob F

Very nice Peter. I got to drive a skate buddies 1:1 70ish MGB last year. That car scared me in that it was so close to the ground and tiny. It was very quick as well. Your 1:1 is VERY nice.... The model is poyfect as well. No MGB's for me though... I escared of em. Yet I owned a 500Hp Vega????? I'm not right in the head I think. Bob F

You are correct, dimensionally it's pretty bad. But your paint makes up for it in so many ways. Well done indeed. Bob F

Can those colors in that combo look BAD on anything? I ask you? Very nice me laddy Bob F

Garsh that's beautiful. Tamiya right? The engine is superb... Your builds are always exciting to look at. Bob F

This is a post that totally speaks to MY HEART.. As a result, I will speak about it ad nauseum............ Attachment: There are CLEARLY places to NOT attach parts, and there are places TO CLEARLY attach them. That said, if we had the MODELING community involved we could make the needed placement points clear to the manufacturers and this would be a moot point. If not asked, well, we have what we've always had. Poor placement points and OBVIOUS mistakes. It only takes a minute to see that MANY of the placement points over the last [50?] years have been, by and large, INCORRECT.. Seams: While chrome sprues largely take a hit here I thought it would bear mention that MOST seams are inconvenient. But, I have no problem working either sandpaper or sanding stick to achieve results I am pleased with. Problem is, I am usually NEVER happy with the results I achieve. As much as I like to think, I am not the greatest sander/seam sander. My results are OK mostly. Chrome: STOP chroming items that DO NOT need to be chromed..... 95% or more of most kits need to be white plastic, period. Case in point? The new Trumpeter GT40..... The Rest?: I despise seams. On assembled models it is unacceptable to me. It is one of the BASIC skills that a modeller should adopt immediately. If you HAVE to build a model, a few basic things can be observed and all mankind can be happy with your result. Paint items in colors they are normally. Pick up a book, or stick your head under a hood for once. I do minimal research to achive modest results. You are encouraged to do at least that. The Internet............ blah, blah, blah........................ It takes nearly NO EFFORT to be accurate on most subjects. Others can be elusive I admit. Model what you know: Do you know F1? Model them for Pete's sake! You a Dragnut? Pick up a Pro Stock kit.. There is usually something current to choose from when it comes to NHRA. Like Stock? Too many to choose from. Pick a kit and run with it..... OK. I went on [like promised].. Build a car.. Build it today. Learn from every build. Bob F

I'm buying several of each I'm certain. Let's hope Slixx is planning variations. I heard there was an offset chassis in one of these kits. The driver being off to the side a bit so he can see past the supercharger. One chassis wil be more traditional. That's a first if it's true. And accurate as well. Looking forward to this very much indeed. Bob F

Believe me when I say that THOUSANDS are looking forward to these releases. Revell Drag kits have always been the best kits. I heard the tooling was done and that a strategic release date was all that remained. Bob F