VW Dave

I like both options....except for the retina-burning green.....but I voted 'slammed.' I just like a stock-appearing exterior with a little bit of sled attitude thrown in for good measure - kind of a lead sled equivalent of a pro touring muscle car.

Fotki for me too

No problem at all. When you view the individual photo in Fotki, there is a small bit of text above the picture that says 'share.' If you click that once(sometimes twice), it comes up with three choices for URL, based on the place you're sending the picture. The first choice says 'image URL for use on other sites' - move your cursor over the URL under that bit of text and left click once; the line should blink orange once, and that says you're done copying the image. **The cool part of the above process is that you do not need to be signed in to Fotki to use it. When posting here, and you are ready to add your photo, click the small icon that looks like a polaroid picture, and use the 'ctrl' and letter 'c' to copy the image URL.

Is it lacquer or enamel? Easy to apply and not crazing the plastic is one thing, but I'd worry about comaptibility with whatever top coats are going over it. Lately, I've been buying Krylon or ColorPlace flat black instead of Testors; I use a lot of it, and those little cans can get spendy in comparison.

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but all of those cars were/are sold in the US.........

The best way to do it is to set up an account with one of the photo hosting sites, like Fotki, Photobucket etc. When you have your pictures hosted there, they have their own URL so you can copy/paste it with ease. I'm not sure about the others, but Fotki has (limited space) free accounts; once you outgrow the space allowed in the freebies, however, they are always running specials on their premium memberships.

I've already started sourcing parts for the yellow Camaro from the original movie.....Nick, you have a PM from me. I have always found it ironic that Brock Yates, who was involved in the original race, wrote the screenplay for 'Cannonball Run.' The two stories of the race couldn't have been more different. The Ferrari Daytona that he won the real race with was at our local auto museum a few years ago, as was his Challenger. He lives in the finger lakes region of NY, in a small town called Wyoming, and had a restaurant there called the 'Cannonball Run Pub.'

I was just thinking that the purple top looks cool, but remembered that the 1:1 tops offered by Meyers were never body-colored; they were all molded in an off-white color. Most were installed 'as-is,' or covered with vinyl top material....the 'mod top' was a popular thing around that time, and many Manxes got theirs done up that way. Mine has light gray smooth vinyl with black piping that matches the seats and.....get this...it also has a headliner(!?).

The whole underside(but not the interior side of the tub) of my 1:1 Manx was done up in black gel-coat, and I figure that might help out with the transparency issue too.......

Reminds me of the way I look for something that's missing.....'go to where it shouldn't be, and don't look for it.'

My wife gave me a gift card for Amazon on my birthday last week, and one of the DVDs I ordered('LeMans') arrived today.

Taking into consideration that they're in Australia, and they provide better products/faster service than many stateside resin casters, the postage charges are well worth it.....Having a US caster who lives only 4 to 5 hours from my house(and claims to be a reliable businessman) take over 6 months to ship a substandard part is what I call 'ridiculous.' Here's the secret to help take the sting out of the international postage: have a couple of friends go in on an order with you, and split the postage three ways.

I've given it half a day or overnight in most cases, mainly because my build time as of late is sketchy. The board was giving me fits the other night and not allowing me to post pictures, but I'll try to put one or two up again tonight. The headers on my deuce's flatty were done with 2 misty coats of SpazStix over Tamiya semigloss black; compared to the kit-supplied chrome cylinder heads and air cleaners, I'm very happy with the results:

Waaay cool!

I agree....a tutorial without pics is just chatter IMO. To be honest, I'm not sure how I feel about a technique that produces chlorine gas

Thanks! It is a very small car indeed: 80.25" wheelbase, and just about 12" overall length. Without the fiberglass top, and with a half tank of fuel, it weighs just a tick over 1300lbs. The entire engine is on loan from my Beetle, as the one that I got with the Manx turned out to be junk(the PO kept his nice 1835cc Bergmann motor with the dual Dellortos and upswept baja pipe). That merged stinger pipe is designed for a Beetle sedan with a full rear apron & bumper, I just kept it on there as I really like the way it sounds with no baffle. The new motor I'm putting together for the Manx includes a brandy-new ceramic coated Meyers 'sidewinder' header that tucks in much closer.

As a rattle-canner, Tamiya TS-13 clear is my favorite, although the Testors' One Coat 'Wet Look' clear is a decent 2nd.

You could paint the inside to get rid of the see-through look, but the original bodies molded by Meyers were not painted at all; possibly some individual builders did so once they got a hold of them? Mine is original metalflake blue gel-coat inside and out, althought the inside is generally covered by the upholstery panels. The black part on the outside/under the rail are actually black gel-coat which, like the flaky blue part, was laid up in the mold prior to the 'glass being added. Here's a low-angle view that shows where the black gelcoat is, as opposed to the blue 'flake gelcoat: If anyone is after any specific views for reference, please feel free to drop me a line. The car is packed away in the garage for the winter, but I'll do my best to get the shots.

There, fixed it for you. Thanks for sharing the pics, the kit looks great...I'm not sure about the blue glass, but that's pretty minor. Any pics of the purple one?

Whoa....is the Lambo-BAMbo guy your dad or something? His last name is spelled D-o-p-p, but I bet it's pronounced 'dope.' Over a curb and 75 feet into a field at only 40mph? NOT.

Dollar General isn't a true 'everything is a dollar' store....their name simply implies that they help make your dollar(s) go farther.

The secret is super light 'misty' coats, and I apply 2 or 3 at the most; putting it on like regular paint makes it look like regular paint. I use Tamiya gloss or semi-gloss black as the base color, and I've had very good results.

I've yet to see any email like that from PayPal, and I've been a pretty satisfied customer for quite a while now. I'd like to know what criteria they use for sending out such a message....please let us know if you reach out to them, Bill.

There's a few of those around here; lots of folks call them 'Saabarus.'

If you're dealing with a less-experienced builder, that is the best move. A couple of young guys I knew that started building models aren't old guys building models today because of a couple bad kits