VW Dave

Steve Zimmermann from PA does some nice ones with turned aluminum rims and resin centers, in 18" and a 19/23" combo pack; I got a set of the 18's from him at this past weekend's NNL East. I don't have any pics, but I alerted him to this thread through Facebook.

I agree about the disaster part, but I've never-never had paint seepage from shaking in 30+ years of building....unless you count that time I didn't have a cap on all the way

If you plan to do the conversion yourself using those 2 kits, I'd take careful measurements; the Revell and AMT kits might not be the same scale-wise, even though they are both advertised as 1/25th. Personally, I'd go the resin body route....if Art says the MCW body is nice, I'd believe him.

As I have been told, top chopping was originally done for aerodynamics on dry lakes race cars; the street cars simply picked it up to emulate the racers' style. Any car can be chopped, but not every car should be. If you lay the windshield back on the '40 by pie-cutting the A pillars, IMO there should be no need for a second cab to stretch the top....keeping the windshield at the stock angle, on the other hand, would require a stretch when chopping the top. You oughta be able to Google somebody's in-progress or tutorial on chopping a similar style of truck in 1:1 as well.

I really need to wrap up my curbside 'Rocco someday...and those Fujimi A2 'bottle cap' wheels will probably stay

Pretty sure they were all the same size in the box....and they looked fantastic too. Can't wait!

Another trick for hoses is solid(not stranded)-core wire with black jacketing, about the size of the kit hoses; cut the wire to length and strip about 1/16" of the coating on the ends....voila! locating pins.

x2

Just wrapped up a small trade with midnightprowler(Lee); not our first trade, and definitely not our last. Thanks, Lee! gtx6970 (Bill) has just earned his place in my 'good list;' we completed a trade this week, and I'll do it again in a heartbeat.

Same here

Same here; I like the unchopped grille, and the top oughta be in line with the cowl

Love it, Art!

You could either vacuu-form the clear part, or just make a wood buck and warm the acetate with a heat gun or hair dryer so it conforms with no stress fogging

A few years back I picked up a diecast NASCAR 'pit wagon set' by Motorworks, and it included a very nice set of stands among other stuff; I've used them in a few of my project pics: I used 'motorworks pit wagon' for my search criteria on Ebay, and turned up several sets like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MOTORWORKS-PIT-LANE-STOP-WAGON-TIRES-JACK-STANDS-ACCESSORIES-KIT-1-24-BLACK-/271186598180?pt=Diecast_Vehicles&hash=item3f23fb1924

After working in shipping & receiving for several years, I pack everything so it can handle such abuse

If/when the package arrives, check the postmark date before blaming the USPS for the delay......I've had plenty of trades where the sender got the package out much later than promised

That's not a dumb way to think at all....I have 2 airbrushes, and I intend to use them for weathering/dusting; so far, I am a rattle-canner all the way and doing quite well

If you're happy with the level of gloss in the black paint alone, IMO there is no need for clear on top of it. By 'chrome window treatment' do you mean paint or foil?

Mmmmm...Tempo Matador

I'm not familiar with PS-16...after Googling it, I see it's a metallic blue polycarbonate paint(for clear RC car bodies).....I won't be testing that any time soon I did test Tamiya's TS-19 metallic blue over(from left to right) TS-14 gloss black, TS-38 gunmetal, and TS-30 silver leaf:

The primer should be something compatible with the paint you are going to use, and the primer color might vary based on the molded color of the kit plastic......and you've not told us those things

Do you need a gloss, semigloss, matte or flat black?

Love it!

The guitar string idea looks like a winner! I'd use a microbrush or toothpick and apply it with 5-minute epoxy prior to paint; after painting the panel, a little careful scraping with the tip of a #11 would expose the trim nicely

Took the words right outta my mouse, Bill