Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Foxer

Members
  • Posts

    9,490
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Foxer

  1. One way I used was just to freeforn one as it it was made of pieces laying around the garage, I used various pieces of plastic shapes .. channel, angle, I-beam and sheet plastic.
  2. I went through this hinging the rear doors on a 85 GMC van I'm still working on. It got frustrating for me mostly due to troubles with the glue holding. I tried using aluminum tubes but had the glue trouble and they looked too big in the smallest tube size, I ended up with the smallest plastic tube filed down thinner and sewing pins with small heads. I posted quite a bit on these in my WIP thread here. This page has the first mention of the hinges with a 3D rendering of how I proposed to do it about halfway down. You'll have to follow thru the thread to find all the other hinge updates on how it went. In the end, I'm very happy with how they ended up. Here's a shot with the hinge done and just the long alignment pin in place. The final pins are just the length of the hinge with body painted top. At first I thought you were asking how this is done . I see you did a fantastic job in the end! I'd love to see some close up photos of your hinges. They look to very good scale.
  3. Nice masking for the black it looks really good!
  4. Amazing! I'm still in awe of how realistic all your metals look!
  5. It is tough to keep the drill straight. The better you center the pilot hole, ie. a pin pushed in to start, the better chance you will stay inside the tube when you drill. But, getting the pilot hole centered is also tough. Just make an initial small mark and eyeball it for centering. It's pretty easy to see when your off on something this small. This is kind of a pilot for the pilot but it is difficult to see if the pin (or drill) is centered on such a small diameter because the pin hides half the tube.
  6. I'm cheap so I tend to keep sprues and always seem to "need" one somewhere down the line. First, I cut long sections off with a corner hook at the end ... like a J ... and tape or glue an alligator clip or toothpick on the end for holding parts to spray paint. I've tried the glue/sprue body filler and for little things it's ok, but I do worry about the shrinkage. Filling holes does work well with a piece of sprue stuffed into it. It's also useful filling a larger cavity without using half your putty supply. I have used it to make small parts, especially cylindrical ones. Once inserted into the Dremel it carves nicely with this cheap lathe and is solid, which is the problem using perfectly round tube like this. Clear red sprue is useful to make custom tail lights once carved and polished. As mentioned, they make great paint stirrers. Many times I'll super glue lengths of sprue to a part as a handle. Usually in an area that won't show. They easily break off when no longer needed. I'm sure this list isn't complete as I keep coming up with new uses for sprue!
  7. No excused are needed for abandoning any build to get on with a '49 Merc!!!
  8. I salute you ..
  9. You all think the above is a generic looking ugly car? It's quite well done to tell you the truth. Now, let me chow you a generic, ugly car with not an ounce of style ... a box on wheels... .........
  10. I don't see any big, goopy runs, so I'd say nice job on a first paint job. I'm still practicing after my first spray job 51 years ago. Good to see you posting and you are going to be amazed at your next build! .. keep on trucking ..
  11. What you say makes sense and would explain the various colors under the chrome. Although I've seen many injecting molding operations in my work, I was not in the industry itself and I wonder if all plastic kits are cut into one mold. The bodies especially need more than just a two part mold ... they have 4 or more parts with sliding pieces to allow freeing the body from the mold. Since the body is the reason for the color differences it would have much to do why the chrome tree differs in color. It could be just due to using excess colored beads in the chrome tree to balance out all the costs and efficient quantities. It would be interesting to hear from someone with experience in the industry speculate on this. And sorry, Dan. if that includes you .. I'm not doubting what you said.
  12. This is awesome! It IS too bad MA never used those ... my ticket bill would have been MUCH less! Those colors look perfect!
  13. Wonderful design and execution on this!
  14. got me all curious and had to scrape some chrome .. mine was white plastic and white under the chrome.
  15. I wouldn't mind the front end off that 52 Suburban to patch onto the 40 resin I have, but .. $250 stops me too!
  16. best looking customs I've seen in some time!
  17. I have to agree exactly as Eric says ... and slow is the operative word here. Some kit distributors have posts that are just too small even for a #80 bit so don't frustrate yourself too much . and wish you luck.
  18. I'm told that as you approach the speed of light and time slows, e sometimes doesn't see there's no c there and lets i in.
  19. I don't want to try a corner with that one, Ed!
  20. Thia is going to be an exciting year here by the looks of it! So here's some of what's on my workbench .. just 5 select ones... 32 Chrysler hot rod: working on twin turbo intake for the straight 8 32 Ford 55 Renault 4CV beach buggy 56 VW Kombi: done but for a repaint
  21. You should be able to see what I did following my thread even though they aren't fully done. I just taped the doors on and glued the hinge pieces with the pins on, after cutting the pins off) while it was in place. Then I drilled holes through both hinge pieces while they were aligned. The drill bit should match the pin diameter or slightly larger for some fitting room. I have some sewing pins with small heads I plan to use.
  22. I have one of these on the bench so it's good to see another one. I replaced the plastic pins on the door hinges with a rod drilled thru the plastic hinges. There's a photo about halfway down my thread showing some brass temporary pins that give the idea. I expect to use dome steel sewing pins in the end. This also lets me install the doors whenever I like and don't have to worry about getting everything done before paint. Hopefully, it will be more rugged in the end than the plastic pins.
  23. I like your styrene and miliput polishing kit.
  24. This is up my alley, but a know I put THAT many photos in one post! At least I know I'm not alone.
  25. Somehow I missed the start of this, but going thru it all was thoroughly enjoyable! I got really worked up on the bodywork .. I'm calmer now.
×
×
  • Create New...