Foxer

I feel I should be ashamed to say I like it too, but it IS a well made and thought out one.

Sorry there's no plastic for this update as I've been working on the hinges and there's no photos worth showing yet. I'm sure when I'm done, the 7 bits of tube that the carpet monster devoured will reappear. I've been trying to make these hinges as close to scale as I can and represent the look of the originals well. I think I have both even though the 1/16" tubes are a bit over sized. Anything smaller and I couldn't handle the pieces. So, to check my method, I made a 3D model of the hinge. As I mentioned, the tubes are .0625" diameter. The end tubes are .06" long while the middle one is .09". The green center piece attached to the center tube will be rounded on the outside edge. (I used a new version of 3DS Max and they moved the radius tool!) The brown mounting plates are .015" thick. Everything is to scale in the rendering. There is a photo of the hinges back on page 2 of this thread. It seems a bit complex, but I think the pieces will actually help me assemble it all. Hopefully, the next update will be a photo walkthru of the making of these hinges.

Some more realistic rusting! . and a proper use for that old L-6.

This REALLY shines out in the sun! fantastic!

Some very nice body work. It came out looking fantastic!

Thanks everyone for the kind words.

The ride height on that improves the look of the whole car!

I smell a rat.

I'm going to go the simple route and just glue the windows to the inside face of the van. I'm using something like .006 plastic, so it won't look bad. Some of the openings have chrome trim so those I'll add trim the full body thickness. I like the sound of using glue to soften the corners .. will have to try that.

I have some 1985 GMC Medium Blue Metallic from Paintscratch.com. Haven't had a chance to try it on anything yet. I also have a few lighter Krylon blue colors that match the interior. That poor body paint will be dulled, scratched and rusted ...

Keeping it moving, the interior panels are together and trimmed to fit. There's 8 strips of texture on each .. half-rounds, flats and V-groove. The rear doors are coming along. They were taken from a spare body which I found was a Revell Chevy Van, so they needed to have material added top and bottom and sanded down in width to fit the AMT door openings. Plans for the hinges have been swimming in my head for weeks and should be in brass, aluminum and plastic soon! In between all this, all the unmodified parts (there ARE some!) have been massaged to remove all the seams and ready for paint.

WoW, Dave! I feel like I'm with family here! Feel free to borrow my Signature.

Nicely done

Just search On The Workbench under my name and you'll find about half of mine. The others I've kept secret from all of you! Nothing you will find has been completed. Some of the reasons include needed part, new technique being researched, boredom, excitement, botched paint, ... I can probably come up with a lot more reasons.

I use a knife to gently pry things apart, after a stint in the freezer as Kris mentions. There's nothing that dissolves old styrene glue, but the freezer makes it brittle. The glue basically melts and welds the plastic. The less glue used in the original build, the easier it is to get apart. Sometimes this all just doesn't work and I have some plastic repair to do.

I have to come up with the model's name?? !!

Great to see one of these build .. I'm always eying it in the LHS. That's a fine looking build you did!

That amplifies what makes building cars so much better than armor and planes ... virtually every car CAN be built different AND still be realistic! I do look at colors on the instructions and they become important when checking how they designed the kit to go together. I've never built anything that I didn't go through the instructions 50 times.

Some interesting customs for a yard sale. Looks like decent bodywork there.

You caught my interest already. I savor long, slow, detailed builds!

Let me rephrase my question. And, I'm using .006" thick purple tinted notebook cover for side windows. I was unable to find any purple tinted clear spray to allow using a thicker clear plastic. Option 1: Glue about .02 x .02 square rod onto the .04 wide window opening edge and cut the windows to sit into the recess on the inside. Option 2: Glue .02 x .04 rod around the window opening and cut the glass slightly larger than the window opening to glue around the edge. The inside of the van will be a blue shade, so maybe this easier method will be easier. I'm mostly concerned about handling .02 x .02 square rod to form the trim keeping it straight around the windows. Maybe I should make this a vote, but I'm more interested in hearing about the experiences here making window trim. Thanks!

Nice job on the paint layout!

I like what you're doing here, especially The Parts Box engine. This type of vehicle isn't one of my usual interests, but you've made it fascinating and I'll be back to check on it!

That's a really good looking body. Will be interesting seeing this unfold ... I'm partial to Nissan also ... this one is starting to grow moss, but you never know.

I'm close to finishing off the windows I cut out for my van project and need to install some window trim, as backing for the windows I will make and just for looks. It looks like it will be made from .02 x .02 plastic stock. I believe this will bend on it's own around the radiused corners. I looked at .02 x.04 but the thickness of the plastic at the windows is.04, which left no bump stop for the window glass to go against. I've seen something here on this subject, but found nothing ... maybe was just a WIP I remember. I'd just like to hear from some of you that may have done this and your thoughts on the process. This is a pretty fine size to handle and glue around a window opening!