Foxer

That's a great way to do a model show. congrats on the success!

Best is to get on Model Train sites and see how they build mountains. Latest version I believe to to use pink or blue foam insulation. Layer it up roughtly to shape you want.. use foam to form flat road among the cliffs. Use big files, saws, serrated kitchen knives.. whatever to rough shape it. Then they cover with various materials.. paper mache as was mentioned and plaster like material that can be shaped. There's many ways and methods. I've heard of sandpaper being used for roads, as you mention. There is a lot of material out there on doing this and model railroads are the key. Sounds like a cool project.. hopefully we'll be seeing the plaster fly here soon!

That sure is all engine ... looks really good!

Those are pretty clean looking. Paint looks good, but really tough to tell in photos. Those are the first things.. I'm in same boat as you.. getting back into it after an absense.

Sometimes, kids are great.. hehe nice! ( /start a list for son )

I've been in Everquest for over 8 years ... probably why I haven't completed anything in that time span! I do a lot of photography also .. whatever moves.. or doesn't.

The kit I did this from WAS called the 944 S. But in fact, it was a turbo motor. The bodywork was pretty much non-turbo though. The Italeri kits were not the best detailed 944's. Castings were less than sharp but I've seen worst kits. The Hasewaga 944 Turbo kits, on the otherhand, are well detailed with typical great castings.

My Unicorn is a 59 Chevy hardtop. I had a white on red one and this was to be the miniature version. It's been done for 15 years except for the BMF. I think it had 15 miles of chrome and my mileage is not what it used to be. What gave me the problem was the tail fins.. getting the foil around those corners without creases.

OMG!!!! This is the saddest story I've ever heard! (I did notice the EX- wife reference) They could make a TV series based on this ...

These are some great builds.. I love this era, probably cause I grew up there naming every car on the road at 7 years old. Also glad to see you got that tungsten lighting balanced and can see the true colors in last pics. Can't help noticing your avatar.. is that a 51 Plymouth?????

Looks great! Those wheels really set off the paint.

Great foil work there! I have a white over red hardtop (after the one I owned) in the shop that just needs foil to finish. These chrome beasts are really a major foil job. Was a stressful time when I started and the corners of the wings were giving problems so I put it aside and has been sitting for years. Maybe time to start anew seeing it CAN be done!

It's all pretty simple ... this was a fun build after so much dainty paint and polishing. The holes were ground out from behind with a Dremel. Just go slow and thin the plastic out. Let it go through where you want holes. This makes ragged holes just like rust. I did all this before painting but you can do after as well since all will be rusted up. I then used about 4 colors of rust starting with the darker. Rust washes and some Rustall for texture were also added. I sat the truck by the computer and kept "rusting" it for a few weeks. Kept a few bottles of rust close by and kept raining on it. You can hardly make a mistake with this. Toughest part is "unlearning" all those hard earned pristine painting techniques you've learned over the years and just mess it all up!

those are amazing tires!! I'd bet they have to use at least half-dollars to measure tread depth!!

I was going to ask about the windshield to, but won't till later now. I'm really liking the look of the body so far ... keep that putty flowing.

I went to school in Angola and 2 Indys while there.. and I like corn .. does that count?

one word ..phat! oh man.. I'm in my 60's .. I don't use words like that.. look what you've done to me...!

3" section... less frontal area .. +4 mpg

got that positioned just right.... looking good

Real or not? VERY good looking build!

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This is about a 15 year old build .. I REALLY need to finish something new!! INSPIRATION: This appears to be an early prototype of the Cameo with steel rear fenders. Obviously, fiberglass was the right choice of material for the production model! Rust holes were ground and feathered with a Mototool, including the classic 50's "headlight cooling vents". The dents were formed with various objects after heating over soldering iron or gouging with a file. Rusted areas of the body were distressed with liquid plastic cement. The grill was opened by filing from the rear. A broken rear taillight was made by grinding out the molded lens to form the reflector bucket and adding a scratch built "oversize" bulb. The left front bumper and fender had a run-in with a warm soldering iron, as did the tailgate. The wood rear bumper was built from real wood with mounts made of cut nails. Mounting holes for the "lost" side emblems were drilled in the body and "rusted". The windshield wiper marks were masked with tape before adding grime to the glass. The broken right rear view mirror was lost sometime in 1962, not due to mishandling. The tires were sanded almost bald, with the fronts indicating a bad alignment problem. The spare tire in the bed is a hollowed-out solid tire with a bad tear in the side wall. A sheet of thin balsa wood was weathered to simulate a stained sheet of plywood covering the rusted bed. Dutch Boy Hunter Green acrylic enamel from a spray can was the paint of choice, undergoing a rubdown with solvent after 24 hours to simulate fading and worn spots. The drivers door was painted with Model Master Classic White and left glossy to simulate a replacement door. Rust was simulated with Floquil Roof and Rail Brown, Polly S Rust and Model Master Rust. The windows were heavily weathered with Floquil Dust. Chrome trim was covered with Bare-Metal Foil...also getting the rust treatment. This model was a pleasure to finish...I simply abandoned all my hard-learned cleanliness techniques and let the damage fall where it may. *GRIN* Detail Master ignition wires; battery cables (the grounding wire made from flattened, textured copper wire), a radiator hose from a broken headphone wire; carb linkage rod and LOTS of dirt, grease and spilled oil finished off the engine compartment. The weathering materials used include Poly S Oily Black and Grimy Black, 4 or 5 Rust colored paints, various browns and blacks and all washed down with remnants from the bottom of the brush cleaning jar. The "aging" process occurred over about a 2 week period where I'd keep adding small touches of whatever was handy and felt right at the time. I'm a firm believer in model weathering simulating the real process for a realistic look. Mike

The batteries scared me at first ... builds should be filled with plastic, not wound armatures! eheh Looking great! some nice casting work there.

What it was .. notice people standing on side almost toughing cars!

Looks like a long arm to extend. I'm just doing the same thing on a 32 Ford with widened fenders. I was able to use a couple sizes of evergreen tube. I'm assuming the outer diameter sockets into the wheel. If you can get a tube that fits tight over this one it can act as a splice and bump stop. Install it extending beyond the smaller shaft. Then insert a rod the same diameter as the existing to mount the wheel and get the correct offset. Hopefully this makes sense. If that clear-ish ring is what mounts the wheel, this should still work. Sometimes clearances dictate cutting the existing axle even shorter before extending. Just think of a tube-within-a- tube to extend it.