Chuck Most

Yeah, but I'm pretty sure I'd have seen the boxes. Looked into Clearview... the stuff that Mexicali Chemicals Corp makes is tough to track down!

Nah... all clear or nuthin'!!!!

I'll pass on that, Greg, but call me when somebody pops a kit entirely in clear plastic. Now THAT would be cool!

Many of the Great Lakes ore freighters from the Fitzgerald's era (1958) were pretty similar in terms of design, the main difference being length, number of hatches, pilothouse, etc. In fact, all steel freighters had essentially the same basic hull design most of the last century- if you could find a kit of a similar ship, it wouldn't be a big deal to modify it to more closely resemble the Fitz. I doubt there are any replicas in kit form... as far as 'niche markets' go, the market for Great Lakes freighters is probably miniscule! Yeah- the song was great, but "Sundown", "Carefree Highway", and "If You Could Read My Mind" are WAY better, and no, I don't care if those songs are almost ten years older than I am!

You had me right there, sir! Fix the parting lines and sprue attachment points... THEN worry about the shiny stuff! Not sure how it would work from a sales/production standpoint, but I think I could get behind it. As long as they don't charge MORE for the 'sans-plating' versions of the kits!

I love how some kits have beautifully detailed, molded in valvetrain detail on the heads... and you're not going to see it when the engine is done. Or the old AMT engine packs, with the cool cranks and cams that just get buried in the block. Stuff like that I usually save for an application where the extra detail can be seen instead of hidden.

As soon as I get another one done, I'll let you know! I'm also thinking of making up some Woodlite headlights.

Oh... did try pulling a mold off the grille I made in 154. Twice. Neither time came out well, so I just said "next time"...

You mean this one? http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=40680 Nope- jumped the gun and slapped it on a project. But this won't be the last one I'll build, I'm even planning on a later-model Farmall 300 grille project. I was also planning a Terraplane grille, but, well, you know...

Haven't been in the game as long as some of you guys- I started out at the age of six, back in 1988. I started drifting away in the mid '90's, but I never really completely stopped. I got back into it pretty heavily around '05, and the iron's still hot. Basically, I've been modeling for just a little over two thirds of my life at this point!

Yeah, that kit is a bit of a nightmare, but looks like you did a great job on this one! Redneck Joe must have pretty deep pockets- that thing's gotta be a gas hog!

Very cool! Need to find myself one of those panel van versions!

Just don't pick up 155 until next pay day.

A guy on the HAMB has mastered a 1:8 scale Terraplane grille, and he wants to know if there might be any demand for such a thing in 1:25 as well. I'll be buying at least ten when/if they are produced- how's 'bout you? This is the 1:8 master. Pretty, isn't it?

The only thing I don't like about it? I didn't build it first!!!!

Funny thing? I knew the original Monogram kit version's Ardun heads were wrong, but I kind of like how they look better than the new, more correct tooling from Revell!

In all honesty, I'm not a huge fan of either kind of glue- I use Loctite superglue for 90% of my stuff. The stuff in the red tube provides a better bond, as it chemically 'welds' the plastic together. The blue (non-toxic) stuff just 'sticks' the parts together. It also doesn't seem to hold its grip as long- whenever I buy a glue bomb as a project, I like when the blue tube stuff is used, because the model comes apart easier. If you're sticking with tube glue, I'd go with the red tube. About the only advanatage the blue stuff has is that it doesn't mar clear plastic.

When I saw Steve's sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet '70 Chrysler model last night, and realized it was an R&R kit, that made seeing the end result seem even more remarkable. Maybe I'm a glutton for punishment, or maybe the subject matter trumps the quality, but I've had quite a bit of fun making R&R kits just a bit less craptastic. This is my '57 International A-100 (R&R lists it as a '56), built as a kind of beater hot rod shop truck... This is the same kit, started by another modeler and finished by me. It was an older casting, and was a bit less rough quality wise, and it's been slightly modified. This is an older '67 Ford Galaxie... casting quality was okay, but there was a LOT of hacking and chopping involved to get everything to fit! This is R&R's '72 Ford pickup, built as an old beater farm truck (I've since replaced the terrible hood side badges with foil copied badges from a Ford C-600)- And, perhaps my favorite, the '38 International COE cab (formerly done by SJS). Again, castings were okay, but lots of trimming was needed.

Closest Tuesday Morning to me is Lansing... no thanks! This kit for ten bucks is a bona-fide bargain for the chronic kitbasher.

Car? But the thread title says pick up! The thought of going RPU on this kit has occured to me, glad to see somebody not only thought about that, but did something! All around killer, my friend!

George 53 says Ed's feeling okay, but he's going to be on antibiotics the next six or seven weeks. Despite that he's in good spirit.

Hell hath frozen over... a Camaro design I not only don't hate, but LOVE.

So... don't count on a 2011 Chrysler 300 kit until 2016 or so...

Looks like somebody's mild custom job. I tried the same thing on the AMT 2+2... The kit parts aren't a straight swap (obvious on the rear bumper/taillamp), but the front needs some trimming and shaping to accept the GP nose. Sorry, I built this kit a couple of years ago, and I don't recall exactly what I had to do to make it fit. Suffice it to say, it isn't just substituting the GP stuff for the 2+2 stuff, as it would be 1:1, but I don't recall it being too difficult a swap.

She looks really fetching in that color! That interior is really going to pop, too. That's a wonderful kit- just look out for some warps in the chassis and floor, and be careful when fitting the front bumper and everything will be fine.