Chuck Most

Oh, a Ford 460 would roast 'em just fine! I like the 4.0 precisely because it's the last thing you'd expect to see in a hot rod. That and I like to turn the 'Chevy In A Ford' table every so often!

Thanks Dave! I'm really starting to believe as I'm as good as everybody says they think I am. One other item about the 'motivation' thing. Too may people try to force it. If you're not 'feeling it', don't bother. When you try to force motivation or inspiration, you're automatically setting yourself up for failure. Yeah, it might mean less time at the bench, but in the long haul it means the time you DO spend at the bench will be FUN and PRODUCTIVE... the way it should be.

BEHOLD MY NEW SIGNATURE!!!! HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!

Most recent updates- Toying around with a 4.0 V6 and 5-speed from a '93 Ranger... Made up a floorboard, and cut down a seat from a '53 Studebaker to fit... And made up a trunk from a cut-down, junk '63 Olds body...

For me, I just get this psychotic urge to do something, ANYTHING, model-related, and just kind of go with the flow from there. Yeah, sometimes the motivation just isn't there, but I try to build as much as I can, because I'm constantly getting new ideas, and I'm the type of guy who can't rest until I see that idea, at least some of it, as a three-dimensional object.

I'll have some updates on it in the next couple of hours.

I'm seeing it slammed out, on wide whites with lake pipes and skirts. Oh, yeah.

Forgive me if I've said this before, but I must insist... LIONS SUCK!!!!

LIONS SUCK!!!!!

Haven't really decided yet, Rob. I'm kind of starting to like the 'barn find body on a fresh chassis' look I've got going on. Of course, there will be some rust 'streaking' off the cab onto the chassis in spots, and perhaps a little bit of road grime, but I'm still on the fence as to whether I'll go all out on weathering the chassis. It is a VERY distinct possibility at this point, though!

That Chuck Most guy only contributes to Model Cars.

Some guy named John Gum built a model of the JFK hearse (or whatever), look for it on e-Bay with a price of $20,000 any day now!

Some kind of space-time paradox?

Didn't all the MPC kits around '71 include the 'Zinger' style parts? Or was that just the specific themed issue Roger is talking about? I seem to remember seeing a '71 Charger or Challenger kit (don't remember which- it was 14 years ago or so, okay!!!!) which included Zinger-style parts, but it was just a regular annual kit.

I'd love to have an '81-'84 Town Car, or '80-'84 Delta 88 in kit form. I'd love to have my 1:1's of those back, too! I also wish there was an '84-'01 Cherokee, so I could do a model of my '84 Cherokee Pioneer.

Added a bit of detail to the firewall, and some more rust on it and the cowl via Doc O'Brien Weathering Powder. Voltage regulator (AMT '62 Bel Air) with some wires and a loom...

Lions S-U-C-K!!!!

Cut out a firewall, and after a little trimming and test fitting for stance, got it weathered and installed- I used a simplifed version of the 'salt' technique to weather it.

W-O-W.... I'd love to try something like this, but I'd go all out and end up with something that would take up an entire room in my house!

http://www.ford.com/electric/focuselectric/2012/?intcmp=fv-fv-a1b07c07d000647e00f00g05h09j12k30m1nvaluep20110110 Is it just me, or do I see a little Aston Martin in that front end?

That was easy enough- after I'd attached the Willys spring to the Ford axle, I simply took a piece of 2 x 4 mm Plastruct strip and bent it, and attached it to the front of the chassis.

Think I did the same thing to the El Camino when it was hauled off. Well, what was left of it anyway.

Yeah,but besides the price, the R&R stuff these days is pretty nasty sometimes, as far as molding quality goes!

The weathering on this one was a pretty basic technique. In a nutshell, here's what I did- I started off with a coat of Krylon Rust Tough "Ruddy Brown" primer, because it has a rust-like color. There are other, specific alternatives (such as the stuff from Floquil) that more closely resembles rust, but I usually go with the Krylon Ruddy Brown because it's readily available. I then sprayed over that with Krylon Olive Drab, and covered over that with the main color- Rustoleum Sage Green. Then I carefully wet-sanded the cab, to expose the layers of Olive drab and 'rust' beneath. I wasn't as concerned about burning thorough to bare plastic on this one as I'd normally be- the Orange Blossom kit's cab is molded in (wait for it...) orange plastic, if it were white or gray plastic, then you'd need to touch up the bare spots with rust-color brush paint. After I applied the Miller decals and BMF on the windsheild frame, I applied some Rustall which helped to 'tint' the Ruddy Brown primer and bare orange plastic. The cab was then hit with a light coat of Testors Dullcote.