mikevillena

Found this while doing research: http://www.sportscardigest.com/1963-12-hours-of-sebring-race-profile/ Nice photos. Another cool find on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeQGoHc_UH4&index=1&list=PLiOaiifC_5qzmFSzdt6mnMw_idq6L8qQ2 I watched the entire series and was shocked by the number of fatal accidents in Formula 1. They were all tragic especially Jim Clark.

Plug wires installed. I'll have to do some touch up once the CA has fully cured: Sanded and re-sprayed the tank. Dropped the pressure and used q-tips and facial tissue instead of an old t-shirt to buff out the Metalizer. Paint was still fragile and managed to scratch it in a few places:

Marcos, it wasn't meant as criticism but rather a question thought out loud. I'm certainly not a tifosi so I have not idea either. Regardless, it does not detract or take away anything from the superb craftsmanshi[p, meticulous attention to detail nor the show stopping finish. I'm sure both Enzo and Luigi would readily approve!

Overall, I'm still not very happy with my build quality as some details are relatively crude. I guess it takes a while to gain competency and the crispness that I aspire to. I've cleaned up the plug wire details and I've set the engine aside for a while. Meantime, I did more work on the fuel cell: I tried to model the very small welds on the tank seams using tiny dabs of filler/primer: I got impatient and gave the tank two coats of Metalizer. I must have waited too long before buffing as the surface was somewhat grainy: The tank will be pushed further forward in final assembly to allow clearance for the trunk lid hinge. I might sand, prime and re-shoot the tank.

Thank you very much Jeremy. And thank you too, Jonathan.

Porsche according to the man himself: As to Lamborghini, I am of Spanish descent so I pronounce it as a Castillian would. As to Tamiya: They've made new tooling for the Yamato which was a very old kit. Just one more reason why (at least in my personal opinion) they remain true to their motto: "First in Quality Around the World"

Doug, those are superb parts! Contrary to what the uninitiated might think there is a lot of thought, planning and engineering involved in designing parts for 3D printing. This technology is certainly impressive but ultimately it still comes down to the builder's skills to pull everything together into a finished and convincing scale model. You have certainly showed the way!

Recoated and smoothed out the plug wires and re-painted. Glued the plug boot on No. 2 forward: The build is taking a lot longer but I'm learning a lot.

Absolutely stunning work, Marcos! The NART colours are a nice break from the usual rosso. I didn't know that NART used the standard Scuderia badge.

For those who are nostalgic for front engined indy cars but also want the latest mid engined style: Start your ENGINES....literally! BTW, Lancer made a 1/24th scale slot car bodyshell.

Definitely an "all out" build. I'm assuming the kit is pricey.

The tooling looks reasonably crisp. How are the wire wheels? Regardless, this is definitely on my "must build" list.

Did some more of the bodywork this morning. Took a lot of work to minimize the gap between the lower trunk lid and the trunk opening: Chassis detail added. I also thinned down the kit's rear engine mounting bracket. Did a quick check of engine bay clearances: Started with the rearmost plug wire. Turned out the solder I used for the plug wires was a little too thin. I had to coat it several times with filler/primer to build up the diameter. It looks like I'm going to have to do this one plug wire at a time because the wires are really fragile. I'm going to have to pre-shape the wire, coat and detail paint it before I nudge it into it's final position:

Thanks Shaun!

What you have is a great example of "wrinkle" texture. I've used the VHT Wrinkle paint before on the dashboard of an old Revell 1/24th scale Ferrari 250 GTO. It took almost a week to cure fully. It looked okay but the texture was slightly too large for the scale. It might work okay if you are trying to replicate rustproofing on the underside of a road car. Otherwise you should try ModelSport's spray. For replicating "cast" texture, you need to experiment with other techniques. Sand cast texture is a lot finer. This is in 1/24th scale: You need to always keep the scale in mind otherwise it won't look right. Always check reference photos. You can find some here: https://www.google.com/search?q=cast+aluminum&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=J9t0U_fKOIOtyASMvIKQDA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1280&bih=662#q=cast+aluminum+engine&tbm=isch&facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=r2CMYZGKhy40pM%253A%3BMYnI0SmmTqCfXM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.aftracingheads.com%252Fcylinder_head_repair%252Ffontana_cast_block%252FFontanaBlock012.JPG%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.aftracingheads.com%252Fcylinder_head_repair_fontana_cast_block.html%3B1000%3B750

Great start, Robin. The colours look spot on. That wankel engine is a real screamer.

Painted and wired up the starter: Decided to fabricate the plug wire boots out of a short lenght of 1/32 plastic rod. I must be crazy to try and drill through: Took forever to do so but was very welcome practice. I would rather not try this again: Got the double ignition coil wires installed and painted. I had to do these first because they will get buried when the 8 plug wires get installed. Twin plug heads...... geeze, the Ferrari mechanics of the 60's must have been cursing a lot when they had to change the plugs on a 12 cylinder engine with two plugs per cylinder. Not to mention the fact that they used to start the cars with one type of plug and then swap all of them out to another type when the enginehas warmed up!

@ Tom - I am an ancient draftsman as I was trained to generate 2D drawings using a straight edge, mechanical pencils, Steadler triangles and french curves. I used to drive my drafting professor crazy because I would add shading to my isometric drawings. I learned CAD using AutoCAD version 2 (I think) with a mouse and tablet. Nowadays, I have AutoCAD 2013, Inventor PRO, PTC Creo 2.0 and Keyshot installed on my laptop. AutoDesk (AutoCAD 2D & 3D) and PTC (Creo) can be downloaded and used for free IF you are a student and have a valid school I.D. and/or e-mail account. I am an adjunct faculty member at my locl community college so I have easy access. 3D solid modelling isn't really difficult if you've had 2D experience. Essentially you are either extruding or revolving shapes. In truth even the most complex shapes can be broken down into simple shapes such as a cylinder, cube, pyramid, cone, etc. The same holds true for scratchbuilding whatever the scale. I think you ought to give it a shot. As to 3D printing, my budget is rather limited so I'll have to make do with what I have. My arthritic and clumsy 3D printer: The software sometimes goes bonkers though.....

Beautiful job, Dan. By the looks of it VRAY is better suited to auto art with excellent effects. Really outstanding!

Funny..... I wonder what an extraterrestrial would say if the Snaptite model really makes it past earth orbit? "Geeze, these guys are really primitive; they haven't discovered liquid cement!"

I fully agree with both Ken and Mark. I have an extensive background in mechanical drafting (got my drafting certificate back in 1980) and I have worked as a designer (contract) so it is relatively easy for me. The core of 3D modelling is done in Creo 2.0 and I simply export the Creo configured files to Keyshot where I can add textures and colours as I see fit. One doesn't have to have a degree in engineering but it does require training and practice with whatever software not to mention a good and functional understanding of basic mechanical drafting and the principles of orthographic projection. So it takes more than simply having a 3D printer. Thank you for the compliments guys. And brilliant work from both of you as well.

Added a little more detail to the engine assembly. I also restored the vale cover to stock but deleted the oil breather port and will move it to the oil filler cap. After spraying the engine with oxidized aluminum, I added several thin washes using acrylic artist's black diluted with Aztek acrylic thinner. They appear very dark in the pictures but are actually subtle: I had to start the plumbing now because the attachment points will get buried as the build progresses:

Those parts look superb Doug. What's the resolution like on the printed parts? I've been eyeing a home printer that's around 2 grand although I don't have the money for it I uploaded the engine files to Grabcad about 6 months ago and it took ages as the engine is comrpised of around 900 individual parts. I didn't have any dimensions or drawings to work from and I've never designed an engine before so I had to learn. The chassis is a loosely based on Colin Chapman's Lotus 7 Creo snapshot: Cylinder head cutaway:

That looks great Mark!

1952 BRM V-16 Around 600 bhp from 1.5 liters (1500 cc) The sound is from Nick Mason's "In the Red". Nick Mason's car was driven around a circuit with the microphone stationary in the paddock so the exhaust note rises and falls and sometimes disappears as the car navigates the circuit.