sjordan2

Not to drive this into the ground, but here's a better look at the hinge (Cabriolet A)

But like fine wine, they can still be appreciated over time.

So I opened a Fotki account because Photobucket messes up today. Why can't I see the image below? http://images51.fotki.com/v103/photos/5/2108535/11076963/1937MercedesBenz540KCabrioletC-vi.jpg

Just goes to show that pearls are far superior to regular metallics for flake that looks in scale.

PS: One small error. The convertible top hinges are mounted backwards on the wrong sides. Note that the rear part of the lower hinge arm is attached to the body, not the top. For some reason, I can't upload to Photobucket at the moment, but you can find a picture of the correct way on this page: http://goo.gl/DBiCJ EDIT: I have to be quick on the trigger finger to get into PB today. This might work. If you want to see more pictures, Google 1937 Mercedes 540K Cabriolet C.

Beautiful job. Looks very authentic.

Just checking to see if this Photobucket image, which shows how a Gullwing's door windows pop out, will show up here. It doesn't at SAM, and Photobucket keeps going crazy on me.

This is absolutely killer. You get a standing ovation (of one...me).

Exactly right. Most convention spaces have similar kinds of rules, and it doesn't matter what your industry might be, whether you're Microsoft or a regional association. You have to follow the hall's rules, in most cases pay for union labor, build your booth within very defined specifications (which can vary from space to space, requiring modifications to expensive display booths), etc. Where the value comes into play for some companies is providing a networking platform for manufacturers, distributors, retailers, and sometimes end customers depending on the products, to get together and close sales (probably a very limited group in modeling), and maybe get some press coverage. And it's true, today's electronic marketing options, in addition to global recession, have caused substantial decreases in trade show participation and investment.

Factory version. 30 shots. http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/2178/Ford-GT40-Mk-III.html

It's a very nice build (the paint is metallic, so it's not "British Racing Green," which includes a broad range of non-metallic shades). But I don't know why no kit manufacturer has ever figured out how to avoid the body seam above the rocker panels, in any scale - most obviously in the 1/8. If you want a fully accurate body, you have to putty over it, and if you want metallic paint, you pretty much have to give the model a body-on paint job. This Gunze kit looks great, but for the money, why couldn't they do it without the seams? You'll also note that there's no metallic gauge panel, and that's because it's a 1965 4.2 version, not the older Series I 3.8 of the other kits.

So does anyone make a prewired 12-cylinder distributor? (1/25 6-cylinder Maserati uses one distributor with twelve plug wires - 2 plugs per cylinder - and two coil wires.)

"How important is design?" if you don't care about design, why do you build models and why are you here? This is right up there with "what is art?" See you in 30 pages.

I don't have the Entex kit, but the thing to remember about different issues of the same tooling by different brands is that they can vary in terms of crispness and flash (and some have better instructions than others - Minicraft instructions in the newest form are generally the best). This is particularly the case for 1/16 kits, which have been issued by a variety of manufacturers and often end up in the hands of Minicraft. 1/16 kits that have made the rounds through many different brands include the Jaguar SS 100, Mercedes 540K Maharajah/Roadster, Mercedes SS Sonder Kabriolet (quite different between Revell, Academy and Minicraft in terms of quality and finish) Mercedes 300 Sl Gullwing and Rolls-Royce Phantom III Saloon. Since I don't have an interest in the 1/16 Fords from the 30s, I don't know about their background. I've listed the 1/16 kits that I'm familiar with, and there are others I'd love to have and don't have any knowledge of - Cadillac, Packard, Duesenberg, etc. But I will make this statement: In my opinion, with some notable exceptions, the 1/16 kits have much better accuracy, detail and engineering quality than equivalent cars in smaller scales. Once you get into 50s and 60s cars, it's a little spotty. And they make superdetailing a whole lot easier. Just a little addendum to the Gullwing discussion: The Italeri 1/16 roadster was also issued by Revell with electric lights.

48 shots. http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/2/AC-Shelby-Cobra-Daytona-Coupe.html

Entex and Minicraft are the same kit in different boxes.

If I told you everything I know about this stuff, I'd have to start another website. I have masses of reference gathered over several years, to help me build this car (which I haven't yet). But here are some observations - a few pros and cons off the top of my head... • There is no ideal Gullwing kit in any scale by any manufacturer. But at 1/16, there are the Minicraft and the Italeri (hard to find and expensive). Both have their strengths and weaknesses, and my build plan is to moosh them together. Do not even consider the sucko 1/12 by Renwal, Revell and Monogram (until I start putting mine on eBay). They make Barbie cars look like museum-quality models. Minicraft has: • A better body shape, while Italeri front fenders are too high and bulbous. But you'll need to deal with more flash on Minicraft, and both require proper body surfacing. With the exception of the opening parts, Minicraft has a single-piece body, while Italeri has separate front and rear lower valances. • Minicraft has more accurate seats, but Italeri has a more accurate interior, including a chrome luggage rail and proper door upholstery missing on Minicraft. • Italeri has far superior engine detailing. • Either way, you'll need to devise your own method for door lifts (maybe 1/24 working shock absorbers?) or choose between down doors and up doors. • Italeri has proper retaining lips for opening hood, doors and trunks, Minicraft has none - you may want to add some Evergreen strip (no big deal). • Minicraft has an accurate space frame, which is the hallmark of the Gullwing, plus the underside belly pan. Italeri has neither. • Minicraft has chrome wheels with separate beauty rings to provide for many accurate wheel variations, and the Italeri wheels are too large and clunky. • Italeri has separate chrome trim for windows, grille and scripts/logos. Minicraft has molded-on window frames, and would require sanding off the grille mesh, and has incorrect script with only gray decals for trunk and dash trim. So it's a BMF deal with Minicraft. • Minicraft has a more accurate stering wheel. That's just a top-of-my-head basic overview. If you can't find the Italeri Gullwing to add detail to the Minicraft, you can get the cheaper and more available Italeri Cabrio (roadster) for the chrome badging/scripts and a better engine (and not much else). You'll still need to add detail to the Minicraft Gullwing interior, though. For a good build analysis by the late, great Martin Swire (who had warping problems that are not typical), go here: http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/1955merc300sl.htm If you're really interested in building a Gullwing, the Minicraft may be the best, but Italeri parts can add a significant improvement. I'd go ahead and get the Minicraft kit (pay no more than $45 with free shipping) and check it out. Until then, I remain your humble servant and stand by to answer any further questions.

Whoever designed it, it's a total rip-off with a rear half that doesn't go with the front at all. Amazing that such a piece of junk could have had such great designers behind it.

On my '93, it fit lower, nestled right next to the louver body part.

Absolutely outstanding work.

It needs a partner. How about a calliope truck? This one seems to have more heavy-duty rear wheels and tires. http://www.pchswi.org/archives/circus/engford_family/engford_shows/engfordtruck.html

Not the end. A merger and restructuring. http://www.motorsport.com/grandam/news/grand-am-and-alms-series-officially-announce-historic-merger-in-daytona/

Here's an interesting front-end treatment on a custom Alfa Romeo from the 1930s that seems similar to your car. http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/5275/Alfa-Romeo-6C-1750-Gran-Sport-Aprile-Spider-Corsa.html

Most of us who buy kits on eBay are sometimes delivered with products that aren't as advertised. When I contact the sellers about my disappointment, I have had a great track record for getting satisfaction. I won a 1/32 vintage kit for a Bugatti T35, which arrived with the wrong headlights and windshields from another kit. I contacted the seller, who gave me a credit that made the product and shipping free. I just got a 1/16 Mercedes kit that had a mangled front bumper and had the wrong decal sheet; This is a great and expensive kit, and they gave me a $15 credit on a total $50 purchase. My point is, if you get something below par on an eBay purchase, don't be afraid to contact the seller with a complaint. You may find there are great sellers out there who want to make you happy. Of oourse, when you buy a kit from eBay, you need to examine it IMMEDIATELY to make sure you got what you think your bought. Don't believe claims of "new" and "sealed," because this may have nothing to do with factory products. Lots of eBay sellers do their own shrink wrapping.

For what kit(s)? I'm sure there are plenty of members here who can point you in the right direction.