sjordan2

Aggorant? Talk about stupid. BAN THIS HORSE'S ASS!!

I once built a Mercedes racer that had those kind of wheels and I could never figure out how to make them look realistic. The Talbot is a pretty nice kit that is tremendously enhanced by using the Herb Deeks wheels. You may have already seen how they look at this build description: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal1/501-600/gal558_Talbot_Dalton/00.shtm

Man, it looks like you're nailing this one. The interior looks awesome, though it seems like the valve covers could be dulled down a bit. Keep us posted.

There is no revenge with morons. They just sit back and laugh.

Superb craftsmanship, especially the very precise chrome trim and paint masking work. Is it Alclad? How did you create the very fine wash or rubber sealer around the window chrome? – It's among the very best I've seen, and something that many modelers overlook.

I agree. Can we leave it at that and move on?

Let's assume I want to do inkjet printouts on the appropriate waterslide decal paper (I understand that I should clearcoat this). Before I invest and test, can anyone tell me if the decals will stick properly to chrome or BMF? Thanks.

Man, you're skunking this joint up in every nook and cranny. Grow up or go away.

Haven't tried it on decal paper, but I would think the required heating could create a problem with the paper (the paper would have to go through 2 heat processes, 1 for the laser printer and 1 for heating the foil). However, I've used it successfully to create things like a chrome Mercedes star for a horn button and the proper design for stereo speaker grilles. You just need to laser print multiples of your design on the same sheet with the color background you want, and choose the one that looks the best (remember, this requires laser printer toner to stick). I used a heat laminator instead of an iron. This should also work well for creating car radio faces, etc. This process, however, is best for small things and is very hit-or-miss when it comes to coverage of broad areas; the chrome may not stick entirely or could peel – depends on how well the laser toner is laid down. One project I'm doing with this is a chrome door sill with a black script Mercedes logo on it; just print a reverse image of your design on black paper and the logo shows in black, while the sill comes out chrome. Here's a company with products that let you make custom dry transfers along a similar method, but without using waterslide decal paper (a bit pricey, though). I don't know anything about them or if this will work on decal paper. http://www.pulsarprofx.com/DecalPRO/Vertical/1_MENU/1b_Overview/Overview.html Does anyone know about this process?

They're also a good source for heat transfer foils, which have a multitude of modeling uses. http://www.papilio.com/metallic%20gold%20silver%20transfer%20foil%20blue%20green%20red.html

As I said, that's an Art Anderson question. But Wikipedia offers a certain amount of illumination: "Early automobile tires were made entirely of natural white rubber, however, the white rubber did not offer sufficient traction and endurance so carbon black was added to the rubber used for the treads. Using carbon black only in the tread produced tires with inner and outer sidewalls of white rubber. Later, entirely black tires became available, the still extant white sidewalls being covered with a somewhat thin, black colored layer of rubber. Should a black sidewall tire have been severely scuffed against a curb the underlying white rubber would be revealed, it is in a similar manner that raised white letter (RWL) tires are made. The status of whitewall tires versus blackwall tires was originally the reverse of what it later became, with fully black tires requiring a greater amount of carbon black and less effort to maintain a clean appearance these were considered the premium tire." I would guess that, as seen in contemporary photos of cars such as the 1910 Model T, the white tire was original and photos with black tires show upgrades at a later date. That aside, it would be cool if a model kit company would take one of these kits and put the "nonskid" logo pattern on the tire treads of these old brass cars.

Looks like you're on a roll. Really want to see how this ends up. And if 1/16 seems small to you, I guess you must have been doing 1/8 Pocher. But from everything I can tell, at 1/16 you're getting a much larger choice at half the scale,and a fraction of the price and agony. Besides, if you're a Pocher guy like Harry P. you can take your knowledge and experience and do the best-ever builds of kits like the 1/16 Mercedes 540K.

Why didn't you mention the "other" most popular site on the Web? Everyone here knows it's scaleautomag.com. The proprietors of this site have no problem with that, and live in peaceful coexistence with them. Personally, I find this to be the best place for skilled, adult modelers – and for a lot more crazy fun.

Waiting for Art Anderson to show up. Nobody knows more about this stuff than he does.

If you're talking about curved window glass, you can use the Squadron Thermaform method, which was originally developed for duplicating aircraft model canopies. First, make sure your cracked glass is glued, filled and sanded to a smooth finish, and even primed and sanded. Or find someone who will lend you the part you need to use as a buck. Technique here: http://www.squadron.com/reviews/review-sq9003.htm You don't need Squadron's materials; just thin clear sheet and a good heat gun. Be sure the part you're copying has very solid backing at all points so the downward pressure doesn't crack it again. PS: This can be a somewhat tricky procedure, so practice on expendable or durable items, such as a spoon, to get used to it. PPS: Latest news from aircraft modelers indicates that Squadron has put direct Thermaform sales on hold due to low demand. You might be able to find it somewhere, though. But I've used alternate materials, such as a clear report binder cover, with success.

Found some more nice 1:1 shots here: http://texacocarofthedecades.com/BestInClassCars2007/CarDetails.aspx?CarDetailID=178&Preview=False&Decade=1910

Exactly what glass piece are you describing?

Great idea.

On a Mac, you can take a full screen shot simply by holding down the Apple/Command and Shift keys, then hit 3. The image file will end up on your desktop. If you only want a selected part of what's on your screen: 1. Place your cursor arrow at a top corner of the image part you want to copy. 2. Hold down the Apple/Command and Shift keys, then hit 4; the cursor arrow will become a crosshair symbol. 3. Press down on your mouse and drag the crosshair down across the portion you want to copy (it highlights the desired area in gray). This may take a couple of tries. 4. When you've covered the area you want in gray, just release the mouse. There may be other ways, but that's what works for me.

Another good option, which I use, is a magnifying ring lamp with an adjustable arm. Like this one: http://www.delphiglass.com/index.cfm?page=itemView&itemSYSid=187570&source=froogle

What paint did you use for the body?

In "Free Willy," the dad has a nice diecast collection in his office.

What mesh is that, and where did you get it? It looks just right for a Jaguar I have.

The question is, are you intending to use workable aluminum material to represent steel?

PS – There are a LOT more photos here... http://www.supercars.net/gallery/119513/2364/1.html