charlzrocks

That paint looks good enuf to eat! Great Job !

That Is Great News Emily!! Glad the Brake Fluid worked for ya! Now remember.......LIGHTLY MISTED FIRST COATS on the candy apple red!

Looks Very Coool! I love the paint color too! Kudos!

Dude! VERY NICE! I got a kit of his 4 engine car waiting for my next vacation. What is the trick to dulling down the chrome?

Well, here tis..... the paint is Candy Rad Testors over gold, Overcoated to a Dark Cherry finish, but it works for me! Enjoy........

Thanks! I like the one I did better than the all gold one. I got a Hurst Hairy Olds that I'm gonna build to match it. I am gonna check on the Slixx decals tomorrow. Nearest Hobby shop is 50 miles away and wayyyy limited in stock. I will stick with the internet. Also gotta get some microset stuff. Saw the site and am probably gonna get the whole set of products. I'm kind of a new product whore lately!

give SIMPLE GREEN a try....everybody here seems to like it. I have never tried it myself......

cool, thanks for the info on the slixx decals. I gotta get a sheet.......mine looks naked!

Emily, After the body is cleaned up. re-spray the silver base and let it cure for 24 hours, then when spraying the candy hold the can about 10 inches away and MIST A VERY LIGHT FIRST COAT.....and I MEAN Light coat, let that set up for at least 12 hours, then spray your second coat with a medium sweeping motion. Let that coat set up as the previous one. If you don't let the paint cure sufficiently you will get an orange peel texture to the finish. Then if you feel you need to go darker, apply more coats. The reason for the first very light mist coat is to get the paint on the edges without it pooling or running down. Light coats work better than heavy ones with candy paint. I did my body over the weekend and overcoated to compensate for the light edges and the car came out a beautiful candy MAROON! Much darker than I anticipated but I did use a gold base coat as well. It was my first try at using candy paint as well! The whole thing with candy paints is that you are actually spraying a color tinted clear coat over silver so that it gives the appearance of a candy apple (without the nuts, unless you have a very dusty work area). Good luck and let us see the results! I have a good feeling about this project of yours!

Good luck with that one. I did the build on the H.U.G. (first version of the car, there were three and only kits were produced of the first and third) and it only comes with limited decals. All of the sponsor decals were missing from the sheet. This is the best I can do for ya....just a glimps of the velocity stacks (why my kit came with a blown motor I'll never know)

Welcome!! Hi..hi..hiyaaaa! You are gonna find this crowd to be a blast!

I understand what you are saying, however, this would (in my case) only apply to laquer and enamel, not the water based acrylics. I used Createx acrylics for my t-shirt business for years and the only reason to wear a respirator was for the atomized overspray that you could breath if you weren't painting in the open air or had a indoor venting system. The paints had a very slight fragrance added to them and that's about all I could smell. But rattlecans STINK, no 2 ways about it.

DUDE! IFEEL YOUR PAIN! I used to airbrush t-shirts and I used a waterbased acrylic. I have been using rattle cans for my models and I am gonna try the airbrush again soon, just because I will have better control and none of the fumes associated with the cans. Come to think of it, I will be able to mix my own colors aw well! I have also found that enamels thru an airbrush are a Major pain. You can never thin em enuf to flow correctly and when ya do the tip dry is aweful (not to mention cleanup) As for being discouraged, see my thread on "never being as good as y'all", these guys here have some great info and are the best support group anyone could ever have! If you need an answer....it can be found here! Strip that stang, give it another shot and welcome to the insanity!

Ahhh...Necessity is the Mother of Invention .... Great Idea!

It looks Sweet dude! Cool build to rehab! I always liked Sox and Martin, they were a class act!

Man am I humbled by the kindness! Truely!! I have found that I really need to try some new things and to scrap some old ones! Other than the comraderie I have found from all the responses, I have also gained an insight in what I would like to do for the newcomers to the hobby. We need a GLOSSARY OF TERMINOLOGY for all the terms you dudes use! Paint Bomb, glue bomb, rattle can, BMF, SAE, and "Magic Bigifier", LOL!! Seriously, some clarification on some of the terms as well as products in the form of a sticky or pinned post would always be helpful and could be accessed and/or added to as need be. I would be happy to start the Glossary and keep it up to date. I suppose what I would do is to ask the members in a specific thread for the explanations behind the terms and products. an example would be MCM Ohana - I HAVE NO FREAKIN IDEA! Flash - extra plastic attached to model parts Magic Bigifier - magnifying glass MCM - Model Cars Magazine Microsol - decal setting solution SAE - Scale Model Enthusiast magazine Rattle Can - canned spray paint with a mixing ball inside As far as decals go, I have begun to make color copys or scans of the decal sheet BEFORE I even attempt the kit. That way, If I screw up I can just reprint them on decal paper and start over. The idea of a DECAL BANK came to mind. Where the forum members would have access to the decal artwork from a particular model that had a bad decal set when used (my experience with a Beatnik Bandit took me to the "bay" asking sellers of the kit that might be unsealed to please email me a scan of the decal sheet, after mine had disintegrated) This would not be to take away from Slixx Decals or others, but more of a backup for something that they might not have or be able to carry. So, whatcha think? Be Brutal if you must, and thankewverymudge!

Emily....I will be painting mine over the weekend and will post pic of how it looks with the gold base coat. What I said about an orange cast is comparative side by side to a silver basecoat. A silver basecoat will be brighter than gold or copper.

WOW! Awesome snag on those kits at that price! My nearest Hobby shop is 50 Miles away........HobbyLobby, limited in the area of model cars and sales like that one are hard to come by! Rejoice!

Thanks guys! The only main problem I had was attaching the body to the chassis. There are NO connection areas save for the bottom of the front windshield to the top forward edge of the dashboard! This had me perplexed for about a good week. Then I just glued it as I stated above and it worked! LOL!! I love this hobby, it freaks me out on a regular basis. Next drag build is Ivo's 4 engine machine!

Oh My GOD! Thanks to all of you for the support! The depression over my skill level is what got me out of modeling when I was younger. I guess some things never change. My own worst critic is an understatement. And, I DO appreciate ALL of the comments. I guess I was just at the point where I needed a quick kick in the butt from a bunch of caring strangers to make me realize that I do love this hobby. This thread alone shows how much passion all of us have for the hobby. Thank you all VERY much! (oh, and the decaling tips are great for my next build!!!) CHARLZ

Emily....I am about to use Testors Candy Red on a build and I am using a GOLD base coat because it will give just a slight orange cast to the color. A copper base can make the candy red have a slightly darker cast than gold. The silver will not add any cast to the color. Welcome to the forum!!

Ok, maybe this should be under the rant section? I dunno... I have seen so many folks on here building their models with such incredible detail (building their own headers, wiring the distributors, etc.) that I feel somewhat inferior. I am 51 years old, and my eyesight is starting to go a bit so I gotta magnify when I letter the tires and other stuff. Then I see the close ups of some of these cars and am blown away!! There is no way that I will ever have the patience to make a model that could compete in a show. So what am I upset about? I guess that I really love building model cars, and there have been so many times that I finish a build with the phrase "THAT WILL HAVE TO DO", because there is a part of the kit that didn't fit correctly and threw everything else off (I like to blame it on somewhat poor instructions from the manufacturers in SOME cases). Oh, and don't get me started on DECALS! I get em positioned just so, then push the bubbles out ever so lightly with a wet cloth and the DARN THING MOVES, I get it repositioned almost to where it was and the decal BREAKS, or if it doesn't break, it almost falls off for the lack of glue left on the decal. I had one set completely dissolve, as I dipped the decal in water for a few seconds and move it back and forth a few times, the decal disintegrated! Granted they were almost 35 years old.... I guess I just want to build some nice models that don't have any quirks during the build that will end up resulting in an inferior model. And compared to lots of stuff here.....mine ain't looking so good. It is depressing. But I just build another one anyway! Am I nuts or what? Thanks for listening.

Nothing special here except for the drilled out headers. It came out looking nice doncha think?

Not sure what an original corvair looks like myself (I just build the models, not a car mechanic here) but I did read about it on Mr. Gasser.com here is the verbatim on the setup: Doing a front engine corvair powered rod could be cool if the design was zoomy enough and you could come up with the correct parts! You're not crazy....you are just INSPIRED! Good Luck!

No, no,no! I was just being sarcastic and maybe I myself came off as sounding harsh...(thus the smilies after my initial response) No harm, no foul.......you were just correcting my error bud!