charlzrocks

That's the perfect answer....'cept....will Future harm the decals if they are coated over with it? If not....after decaling will be the way to go! Thanks!

EMILY IS IN DA HOUSE!!! Awesome "stang" ........ Candy colors are a pain but worth it in the end! Great Job!!!

wondering if it makes a difference at all?

I am currently building the same kit and have to agree the amount of flash is rather excessive to say the least. Instructions need more detail. I will NEVER buy another Lindberg kit. My paint is gonna be plain ol RED. I'm gonna overcoat the decal sheet. Had a set of Roth decals disintegrate on me, don't wanna take any chances! I will MAKE the doors work! If building Ed Roth kits has taught me anything, it's to test fit about 20 times and then have the patience of a saint while aligning the hinge parts and watching the glue dry! Again, can't thank you enough for the info on the headers, will post mine when complete.

I went with Curt's idea on this one, just epoxied the tubes to existing headers, they came out identical to his. I am gonna paint the plastic parts silver and use a jewelers cloth to polish the chrome portion. The plastic portion is mostly hidden anyway and I can get a real good polish on the tubing. I would love to know where TxRat is getting that 2nd tube bender from....looks like it does wonders for bending, let me know! Thanks all!

Wow, Nice idea with the current header/pins/tubing Thanks! I did much the same thing with my velocity stacks as well, although yours turned out really nice and mine are a bit uneven. All heck...my first try, will post when finished. I will first try the copper wire route, if that don't work out I'm gonna do what you did! and....yes Timing is everything!!! Thanks to you all as I will be trying most of these ideas on upcoming builds!!! Oh, WHAT is SPAZ chrome?? Where to get it how to use it??

I just got a Deora kit off the bay and my first thought was a wheelstander! I had envisioned it shortened and gotta get a blown motor, slicks, chute,etc. but it's one of them models that you say "Hmmmmm, this could be a bit more bizarre and I can make it that way!" Nice to see one of my first Hot Wheels cars getting it's due!

Pretty Nice There Rick! Photos could more focused, but from what I see, it's got some clean detail. Great job!

Regarding tools....this place has nearly everything! http://www.micromark.com/

Awesome build! Love the paint job! Musta been a real bugger gettin that Fram decal on the on the filter! What do you use for your chrome trim? It looks so neat and clean!!

Thanks for the responses! I had been thinking about the solder route, however for drag engine headers it might be a bit too flexible. I like the Micromark tube bender spring idea....will probably order the set. I am however looking into using some plastic coated copper wire! I will cut the wire to approximate length, slide the plastic coating off just enough that it looks like a pipe, bend the header to shape, glue support brackets underneath, insert the wire into holes in head, glue in place and paint. I will let you know what it ends up looking like. Thanks!

I want to construct some headers for the Lindberg Little Red Wagon and was wondering the best way to do it. I have aluminum tubing but it creases too easily when bent. I would like these to look as realistic as possible without costing me! HELLLLppppppfffftttbbbb (unintelligible babbling out of frustration)

Ok, now I got a gallon of the Simple Green and am not sure...should I dilute it or use it full strength??

Totally EVIL! I love it! Reminds me of something out of one o them "Death Race" Movies.....but much more sinister!

Welcome to the hobby! I suggest your first tools be: Exacto knife, plastic glue, Sandpapers, self-locking tweezers, rubber bands, paint brushes, needle files, toothpicks, magnifying glass, and a "third hand" gripping mechanism. I do what they call "out of the box" construction. Basicly it means just following the instructions and not adding any severe detailing. That will come with time, experience and advice from the rest of the forum members. (Always ask us for help and advice....we are always here!) As for spray painting, I highly suggest that when you spray paint, use thinner coats and start spraying in a sweeping motion staying about 8-10 inches from the part. and.......LET IT DRY! Walk away for at least an hour, check what the can says about drying times. Everyone here has put a fingerprint into a wet paint job thinking it was dry. Admire it but leave it alone till dry!! WELCOME !!

Nice Build! Love the paint! What is "ALCLAD"? and how do you u use it where to get it??

I got my decal paper from Papilio.com They let you order sample sheets! I needed to remake the Beatnik Bandit decals that disintegrated on me. I got the clear decal paper and used my inkjet printer, worked fine! Just overcoat with a clear (I used Rustoleum clear) make sure you do 2 thin coats of the clear. let em dry, cut em out and you are ready to go! They also make a decal paper with a white background that works the same way. I would tend to darken my colors when using it. I liked the stuff so much, I went back and ordered 5 sheets of clear and 5 of the white!

Wow! Pretty cool looking build! And the fire pit almost looks like a real ashtray, great job!

Pretty clean detailing! (cept the doorjambs that yer gonna fix, put some brown paint on that area to look like dog poop they scraped off their feet while getting in) Looks like it could pull me over at any second!

Thank you all so much for the kind words and encouragement! After seeing all the "Masters" builds on the forum and getting some great words of wisdom from you all I dove in! These kits can be intimidating, but I resolved to test fit all the parts very carefully and be patient with myself before I applied any glue. The white walls came pretty easy with white acrylic pen and a toothpick and a steady hand. I have all the Roth bubble tops, have to yet build the Mysterion and the Beatnik Bandit II. I just scored a sweet kit off the bay, the Predicta bubble top by Daryl Starbird. I already built the Silhouette so when these are complete it will make 6 bubble top car models. I really want to design my own as well. I have the Roth Outlaw kit that I was thinking of using as the basis for it....I dunno...got to think a while. Trying to think of a good way to tint blue the bubble on the Mysterion. Already tried future and food dye.........it's too thin and only shows color when it drains and pools at the edges. I am not ready to try and spray it candy blue, could result in an overcoat. Any Ideas?

Could you post or pm me those pics of the engine with the stacks? I am building the Lindberg LRW and need some color references for the engine. I am gonna see if I can make my own stacks as the kit ones look pretty "WIMPY"

I use a fine tip Elmers Painters Opaque Paint Marker, a magnifying glass and a steady hand. It is white acrylic paint and anything that goes where it ain't supposed to I can remove using the tip of a toothpick. DO NOT USE ENAMEL PAINT, IT DOES NOT DRY ON THE TIRES!

Maybe I shoulda left the trunk lid closed

WOW! PF Flyers...I had em as well as Red Ball Jets too! Testors enamels were 29 cents, models were $5 or $6, schwinn sting ray bicycles, paper route paid for most of it, playing kick the can at night, and Saturday morning cartoons were NOT anime!

Thanks! The Headlights and Bubble top came in clear "Pink" molded styrene. I painted the backside of the "headlights" white to make em "PoP" a bit and balance with the pink bubble top. And yeah, the reel to reel.....jeez that's pre-8 track!! LOL!