Ron L

There doesn't seem to be much info on how the interior can be displayed. Is the roof separate to be opened like the real car or is it built like a tank model where everything gets sealed up?

I've been waiting for a build off like this for ages. This is what I got hung up on a while back but I'll build something new.

That's what I used on the Road Runner I posted. They're small but look OK for a twin setup. For a single you'd most likely have to get something from 1/24 scale. edit - oh the Camaro is already 1/24? Those are tiny turbos then. It's sort of hard to see here but this turbo is cast from a 1/24 Tamiya race car. I bought it as a parts box for a few bucks since I just wanted the turbo. It didn't even have a body so I'm not sure what car it was. The compressor half is a nice hefty piece with detailed bolts and ribs, and with the Vortech gearbox in the Saleen kit it makes a very nice centrifugal supercharger. For intercoolers I made a mold from a radiator out of one of my kits. The cast radiators are cut to size, the cores arranged for the application, and square styrene is used for the header tanks. Tubing is 2.5mm aluminum bonsai wire and the couplers are thin-wall high shrink ratio heat shrink tubing, not the cheap thick stuff you get at the local Autozone or RAdioshack. "Clamps" are BMF and the clamp screw is just a piece of wire glued onto the BMF.

http://public.fotki.com/lauron/rons/scale-...uth_roadrunner/ Yea the intake and exhaust is all scratchbuilt. All I did was look around the internet for pictures and built them out of what I had on hand. The turbos are resin and I've got hundreds of them in different sizes because I made my own molds. Also don't bother ordering resin turbos overseas, it'll cost less buying a kit that's already turbocharged. I collected my different turbos by searching "turbo" on ebay model cars; most of those models are not very high-demand and can be had cheap. One of the old Camaro kits has a twin turbo setup but it doesn't say on the box, I forgot who makes it though.

Here's what I did, but instead of the EFI plenum you could make it higher to put on top of the carbs.

Cool, I didn't know that. I'll have to watch it some day.

I just recently started using Picasa to upload to Google photos. Fast and easy with 1GB of free space. I've had Fotki since they came out but it's starting to tick me off. It's slow, cumbersome, unreliable, and uploading/sorting photos takes too many steps unless you use Picajet. With Picasa you scroll through your pics with the mouse wheel, hit the "hold" button on pics you like, press "upload", choose an existing album or type the name of a new one, and you're done. I use it to share, not print, so I upload using the small file size option. I've got over a hundred pics on there and I'm only using 1.4% of my total space. Picajet, free for use with Fotki, is similar to Picasa but it doesn't feel as streamlined.

Bullitt license plate? Sacrilege!

Sounds cool, I'd like to build an autocross car. How many teams are there so far? Any specific class for your autocross group? If you need an "unlimited" car I might be interested. Long work day today (I'm beat) and tomorrow. I'll probably sign up for an account Friday night.

Need an account to view the thread. How about posting the details so people can decide before going through the sign-up process?

Yeah it's probably an e-check. When I sold regularly on eBay I never shipped until the payment cleared Paypal unless it was something trivial like a standard-shipped $2 part. Likewise, when I had to pay Paypal by e-check I just assumed the seller wouldn't ship to me until that cleared.

The most damage I've seen (since I don't own a store) is when my friend ran his 2-speed .12 HPI outside the hangar at work for hours on end and the rod exploded into a few pieces, but they all stayed inside the engine. I've never seen R/C tires that bald before, either. We beat the ###### out of that car. I went backwards. Always into gas everything as I thought electric was for chumps. Well I got an electric aircraft a few years ago and I was sold! The battery and motor technology these days is just amazing compared to what was available when I first started doing R/C in the 80s. Many motor/ESC combos from even just 5 years ago are considered obsolete. Your Clod with a brushless ESC and LiPo battery (3000mAh+) could easily meet or surpass the run times of many gas cars. Electrics also have close to 100% torque as soon as you hit the "gas" which makes them feel faster than the "peaky" power you get from nitro engines. I've got a 1/18 scale Associated RC18r and 1/18 Duratrax Vendetta and they're the most fun I've had with R/C off-road in years. With just two batteries I have enough juice to run them until I'm sick of it, sometimes not even running the battery down completely. I sure don't miss my fill bottle, glow plug starter, starter box, "starting module" for electric-start nitro engines, slime all over the chassis... Search Youtube for brushless motors. There are some insanely fast electric cars out there, some beyond the realm of being controllable.

More experiments. I can't find my airbrush, maybe they'll look better painted? The center caps aren't really done and I'm not sure what to do with them yet.

I remember when their clearance kits were $4 and I grabbed a few AMT '32 and '49 Fords. The RSX and Willys are good deals at ten bucks considering all the cool parts you get with them. My daughter built the snap Monte Carlo at a show and it's nothing to write home about, certainly not worth my $10. Michael's just opened a new store 5 minutes from here instead of 20 minutes away. Now if they would just carry Evergreen plastic...

I didn't time it, I walked away and came back in an hour. I wouldn't really call it stretchy, more like deformable.

OK I tried mixing in some old Moldmax 10 I had with Alumilite resin since my Smooth-on resin has gone sour. Every try mixing honey with water? Well that pretty much explains it. Once I did get it stirred there were still little balls of silicone suspended in the resin. Mixed it up with the other part anyway, added the black tint, and poured it into a tire mold. They do come out flexible, but not flexible enough to stretch onto a larger rim which is what I was shooting for. It'll stretch enough to allow a fudge factor of about 0.003" but forget using the same tire for, say, 15- through 17-inch rims. The little suspended bits of silicone is also a problem in the finish.

Of course not, and do let us know how it works out. I just meant it would be a waste to try it if you were starting from scratch. I have some old Moldmax 30 but the activator has dried up. I don't know if the rubber part is still any good. I've got yet another mold in the making for tires. I've wasted so much RTV trying to get a clean cast out of low-profile tires but I gotta use that gallon somehow, right? "Big" tires like 60-series rubber is no problem. It's the super thin stuff that's hard to design a mold for.

10% Mold Max without the hardener or do you still have to mix the 10% in a 10:1 ratio? Even then you'd end up with a viscosity that's close to the Reo-flex (Smooth on) or Flex- (Alumilite), which would still cause problems with pouring into the mold and the cure times might even be slower. Any pigment also slows down the cure time of the urethane resins. Seems that it would be less of a hassle to just buy the correct materials. They do exist for a reason.

Use a metric ruler and caliper. 1mm = 1" in 1/25 scale or at least close enough in this scale. A 3" pipe would be 3mm, 1.75" tubing is 1.75mm, etc. for example. Evergreen packages also print the contents' size in mm which will make it easier.

I lived in an apartment for two years and went through a whopping 2 cans of propellant in that time. I put them in a pot filled with hot tap water to keep the freezing down but it wasn't much of a problem since I only used it for painting small parts. Bodies and chassis plates were done with rattle cans. The propellant cans probably come from the same manufacturing plant before they slap the stickers on and it's not like there's some secret ingredient in them, so they're more or less the same. He specifically said "spare tire". Compact spares can be rated up to 80PSI. A street tire in good condition will take 65PSI easy; some rim/tire combos take that much to seat the beads when putting the new tire on. We did it all day long at a tire shop and no tires ever exploded on us.

What size do those wheels scale out to? It looks like tires aren't included; what do you use?

Both resin and urethane (flex, reo) tires suck! I wish there was a better method to cast them. Urethanes take forever to cure, and their viscosity does not lend itself to simple gate/vent systems you'd use in a resin mold. Urethanes coagulate a week after purchase and require heating to get them back to liquid state. However they are easy on your molds since they do not heat up. You can also mold them on the small side to allow them to fit on a variety of wheel diameters. Resin tires are fine unless they warp .001" because your mold's corner was sitting on a piece of lint, then the tire doesn't fit on the rim anymore. The exothermic curing process is also very tough on molds especially in the tread area. Here's a car using resin tires. It looks fine in pictures but closer inspection reveals uneven tread and the tire-to-wheel interface is bad due to the tire being out of round. I don't think I'll ever do resin tires again unless it was molded with the wheel.

I wish I had room for a garage like that. Our real garage is small enough as it is. Maybe a hanging deal like the railroad guys do? Hmm..

On Photobucket when your picture is shown, under "Share this image" you want to copy the "IMG code" In the case of the pic you posted, it is this: [IMG]http://i715.photobucket.com/albums/ww151/guiwee/030-2.jpg[/IMG] Paste that in your message here. By the way, which F40 kit is that in your gallery?

I haven't seen it from different angles but from the pic you posted I can tell it's a fastback rear quarter and not a coupe. Board requires log-in. Care to link the pictures instead?