Ron L

Me too, but I would re-install the upper control arm first. Yes, I know it's part of the look.

Wow, look how narrow that rear axle is to make room for their dish-o-rama wheels. Otherwise I really like that chassis which can be detailed better than the Uptown kits. I saw a Jada 2009 Camaro on the shelf which had wheels that weren't as humongous as their usual offerings, maybe scaling out around 20". I wished they would include those wheels more often. Does the hood have those metal bars like the box art? I really disliked that part of the Revell Uptown kits. Looks good though. I'm glad they didn't "Dub-out" the wheelwells like that other (don't want to upset the fanboys again) model manufacturer did to their tuners.

Bob, could you post a chassis shot if you find the time? Thanks I'm waiting for this to hit the local Target stores. They're already carrying Revell snap kits and obviously tons of Jada diecasts.

I read someplace that claimed they dubbed in a GT40 race car sound in the double-clutch scenes, yet at one scene from a chase car view you can clearly see the exhaust puffs coincide with the double-clutching sound. As to why he does it, I don't know. Because he's Steve McQueen and he can?

I've never bought a truck model before - what's the guesstimated price on the Titan?

Make some center caps? I'm planning to do that for mine, "one of these days".

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...splay.php?f=927 Not really cars, but the tips section will keep you busy for a while: http://fichtenfoo.com/forum/

My friend goes to Techshop and he's enjoying it. A bit too far for me, but I'm spoiled because I have free access to pretty much all that from home and at work combined. The makefaire sounds great! I'll have to bring the kids to that. Too bad I just started my huge R/C project and no way I'll be done by May. I'm using gutted remains of a 49cc pocketbike to make a 1/4 scale-ish buggy - maybe next year! I'd like to help, Gregg, but I don't know what's in my schedule yet for that weekend.

Aaah! What sad individual would let a '67 get that bad? Oh wait.. Ugh, I really hate that picture, but it's nice to see how far I've got since then. BTW the hood also has louvers, like this one. I've been meaning to graft the Shelby louvers from another kit to make that hood in 1/25 but you know how it goes, too many projects. Good eye, noticing it's a stock-length hood. Where'd you get the wheels from?

That's pretty sad news about D&J. I haven't been there in years and Al was there the last time I went. Sounds like my time is better spent looking online than through their store, which was quite the opposite many years ago. San Antonio was pretty crappy the last few times I went before their closing, too. It stunk like BO and a lot of the workers seemed like random people off the street that knew nothing of what they were selling. At least they had decent stock and the other stuff they carried kept the wife busy (very important!). Hobbytown USA in San Carlos wasn't bad when they were open. The guy who ran it said there just wasn't enough business in that area, and the other H-town he ran further south(?) was doing twice the sales. Not much left for us North bay folks except overpriced Franciscan who I go to just because I've known some of those guys since 1983, and Talbot's if I'm really desperate for a new release. I've resorted to ordering styrene stock from Tower Hobbies for my scratchbuilding needs. Hobby Engineering in Millbrae supposedly carries a full line of Alumilite, Evergreen, and Plastruct products but the guy never answers his email or phone. I went there twice and the store was closed. Oh well, to someone else my money goes.

Darin, my "griping" was based on Harry's comment, hence the quotes. Quotes around a word or phrase means I don't necessarily share the view, or I did not say it originally. Harry said: So I said, in reply to you: "and then start griping" is in quotes. Get it? How does "What can you do, or are you in position, to prevent my kid from being stranded this time?" sound like I'm calling the bus manager an idiot? I'm not griping, nor do I suggest griping now. The point was why wait until it's too late which is what Harry is suggesting. I replied to you with Harry's quote because you and I were on the same track, I was merely trying to correct your analogy, that's all.

Not sure if this has been done before, but why not make two wheel well "inserts" so the builder can choose between stock and drag? It would require some putty work in the end, but resin builders should be used to that by now.

The urethane I used is made by Transtar. Thinning it with $4/gallon hardware store lacquer thinner was a risky experiment but I'm surprised it worked. I actually like the Testors stuff. I've heard of it yellowing, heck it's already yellow in the bottle, but I haven't used it over white and don't plan to anyway.

The fact that "new tools" was barely mentioned in passing is one thing that baffles me. That could mean anything, from starting from scratch to using an "American Muscle" (AM) tool to create plastic kits, which would technically be "new" once molded and put into an AMT box. How does translating a die-cast tool into plastic work, is that even feasible? Revell's Uptown and AMT's tuner series kits look like plastic versions of die-casts. Are they? Although grossly mis-shapen, I wouldn't mind the AM kits made in plastic as long as they don't try to pass it off as an accurate replica. For example an AM '67 Mustang with a chopped roof and oversized wheels and wheelwells would be fine with me, since they already have a good stock version of a '67 available. Putting stock parts with a body that's obviously beyond stock makes no sense. That analogy doesn't work, Darin, unless you're implying that the car would automatically home in on dogs (meat-seeking radar?). Imagine your kid's school bus breaking down 4 times last year, leaving the kids stranded. In the new school year someone introduces himself as the new head of bus operations. Whether the breakdowns were due to previous management or not is irrelevant, but the concern is still there: "What can you do, or are you in position, to prevent my kid from being stranded this time?" Or do you just wait and see, "and then start griping" when your kid is stranded? No time to do a quote-fest this time around guys, but thanks to all for sharing. As a side note: unless it is addressed to you directly, do not take anything personally even if you think it's about you. Being instantly defensive suggests guilt. rhoadapple, no worries man, build on.

See what I mean? The defense bandwagon is on full alert without even reading carefully as if my hand reached through their monitor and slapped them in the face, yet I still await answers to my questions. How do I know not to buy it until after I've already bought it? Based on magazine reviews? Larry can tell you how well that worked out. Yes, and these guys JUST announced their arrangements and intentions mere hours ago, and you already think the hobby is saved. Does ANYONE know what the rest of us don't, which are the questions I asked earlier? So who does? That was one of my questions. Rather than "Tom, John, your designs are bad" as you are seeing it, it is actually "Tom, John, what can you do to prevent bad designs?" Although it was your quote I included it wasn't directed at you, but as you can see in this thread alone it applies to many people. I've been to more corporate and school meetings than you can imagine and yes, I have called people whatever I want. If we had a meeting with the head of some company speaking and some guys start talking down to me because I asked questions, you bet I'll call them what they deserved to be called. Dragging someone out to the schoolyard and saying "Now tell it to my face" or telling someone to "just go somewhere else" is just childish and an admittance of defeat. Also, asking me to say it to you in person means you're challenging me to some sort of physical confrontation, which I believe is against board rules. Or did you want to give me flowers and hugs? Larry, I've got positive hopes, but what does that do? My 9 y.o. daughter had positive hopes with her snap kit, and now she swears she'll "never build another one of these stupid things." Good thing she got her start on planes and Gundam kits beforehand, or she would've given up the hobby for good like many people have. I had questions about the future and what's to be done about mistakes of the past, yet instead of answers I'm blasted for being a whiner. Let me summarize and sugar coat it for those that get sand in their urethra too easily: 1) How do we, as a group of passionate hobbyists, get in contact with the people that put the final "OK" on the parts, so we end up with kits we can all like? "Hey guys, here's a preliminary draft on the 2010 concept Gremlin engine, what do you think?" How cool would that be? 2) Why aren't model car industry people more involved in forums, and I don't mean just sellers and vendors relaying what they heard from further up? 3) With all the concerns about past inaccuracies, mistakes, etc. why hasn't someone come forward to explain why the decision was made to create such parts? 4) Now that it's headed towards a seemingly better future, will points 1 through 3 be handled differently than in the past, if at all? So there you have it. If you wish, let's forget everything and pretend that all I wrote were those four questions. Answers from those who are qualified and can prove it are welcome. Now I'm off to prime and paint my AMT '09 Camaro.

Walking on water? More like passing a kidney stone. I asked a question, I wasn't griping. Besides, did I stumble onto the "Kiss AMT's butt" thread by mistake? I wouldn't be so sure about anything until it's in my hands. People are so quick to bury their noses into their heroes' cleavage (and I don't mean chest) these days. Let them come in here and explain it themselves, rather than letting their sheep do the talking. Manufacturers, vendors, sales reps, and various individuals from certain industries are alive and well in forums except car modeling. Why is that? Why can manufacturers of, for example, $15,000+ CNC machines explain their machines in detail to their customers on forums, yet we can't get someone to explain why the engine is screwed up on a $15 plastic model? All we get are the fanboys who are defending their favorite brand and/or are just plain blind to the fact that a roof is 3 scale inches too tall. I want to know who designed what we're looking at, and why they were done that way. Questions like "Who decided to aim these gauges (mounted on the airbag no less) at the sky?" Maybe there's a good reason, maybe not - it would be nice to just get an answer. Is that information really that hard to get?

Eastwood now carries urethane in a rattle can. You have to activate it by puncturing an inner seal, and you get a pot life of 48 hours. For $17 a can you better have a bunch of bodies lined up for it.

I have no idea who is/was in charge of which departments, so I want to know. What does this do about the gross inaccuracies and poor molding qualities we've seen in the latest-tooled kits? I'm talking sink marks, engines that look like they belong on a Star Wars model rather than the car it's in, hood hinges going through the firewall diecast-style... I hope this isn't just another cash grab from the "living my youth" crowd because you know, regardless of quality, they'll buy anything they haven't seen since 19xx and this applies to most hobbies. I don't want a T-bucket shaped like an outhouse, a Mustang narrowed 2 feet to make into (yet another) dragster, or whatever other abominations were made back then. What does AMT have to look forward to, not look back at?

I saw this at NNL West. You should've put it on a stand to show off the chassis; I thought it was just another engine swap! http://public.fotki.com/lauron/rons/scale-...nnlwest169.html

Who is "Round 2"? A Google search turns up a few. It's not exactly a unique name. Great, but what about new tooling?

I wasn't too worried about the builds, but rather the pile of kits I had purchased throughout the day. Never had a problem with stuff disappearing before but it's easy for your stuff to spill over to the next guy's stash. All the free D&J bags looked the same so you might end walking away with an extra bag, or missing one!

Instead of all that trouble, I would just have someone such as Walgreens, Target, Costco, etc. develop/print your pictures. While you're there, buy a scrapbook album and arrange the photos yourself. Inkjet cartridges and photo paper gets expensive unless you have a dedicated photo printer which, besides the price of the printer itself, are very cost effective when it comes to price per print. My wife has one of these she uses for scrapbooking, and the printer/ink packages come out to ~20 cents a picture. You could probably find the older printers for cheap. For example my mom's Canon photo printer was on sale last holiday season for $50 at Staples. It doesn't have the bells and whistles like my wife's HP such as internal hard disk, screen, card readers, etc. but it prints pictures straight out of the camera, just like it's supposed to.

I should've guessed, by the handicapped access post you made. My kids and I got in your way a couple of times, if that refreshes your memory any bit. Do you think it would be better if the tables were set up in a way that the builders have a place to sit behind them? Sort of the way the vendor tables were arranged, I guess. I'd also feel safer stashing my "loot" that way, plus it would be easy to ask the builders something about their models. As it is, the only way I got to chat with builders was when we were in line to take pictures with one of the magazines.

I think I reduced my ball-vehicle down to 1/48 or 1/72 to better fit my plans. A 1/25 scale driver just won't fit in one. Virgil, are you on FF's forum as well? You should post the ball challenge there as it would fit the board's theme rather well.

Regarding flashes, you can use one if you must - in a dark room, a lit room but no windows, etc. BUT you must not use it directly. Use a "bounce card", which is basically something white taped to the bottom of the flash. A white business card or a piece of index card for example. Angle it so that the flash is reflected up towards the ceiling. You could even hold the card by hand if the camera is on a tripod. Make sure the bounce card does not obscure the flash sensor, it adjusts the flash duration based on the amount of light that has been emitted. If the bounce card is covering the sensor, the card will reflect the flash into the sensor instantly, resulting in very dark pictures. Not all cameras will have sensors next to the flash. Basically you are using your ceiling as a flash reflector, a free version of those big flash umbrellas you see at pro photo shoots. If your camera has a hot shoe you can get a pivot flash ($$$) and point it at the ceiling. Obviously this won't work outside or other large areas like a convention center, which is why they make flash umbrellas. For photographing still objects like models in these large areas, a tripod and long exposure is the way to go.