seeker589

THAT - I like! thanks for sharing!

They were STOLEN!? I just can't condone that.

Great build! Thanks for sharing! I have to ask what model this is based upon? Manufacturer? Also - were these "gills" molded into the body or did you make them this way? They add a gread deal of interest - it is a very intreguing detail.

That is cool! I have to see how a powder will work for making tools in space. Gotta wonder what its cost is.

I am a little disturbed. Only a little - I'm not losing sleep or anything. Why is it that when anything scale made of metal is published in Model Cars Magazine - people come out of the woodwork with complaints about how it shouldn't be there - Yet when some of us detail our plastic models - we use photo-etched parts made of metal and it is OK? Please keep an open mind. The examples and techniques used in articles you don't like may just may inspire and influence your next build. There is room enough for all of us here.

I really like this build. I love older stock cars - especially those that aren't build often. I don't think that I have ever seen an A.J. Foyt Mopar stock car. Thanks for sharing.

I concur with this recommendation. I purchased this exact unit and am very happy. It is quiet. When it starts - it doesn't make me jump. It doesn't run constantly due to the tank. I don't have to turn the TV up. It is much quieter than my dehumidifier. Its about as loud as an refrigerator compressor. Hope this helps

I love it! Perfect stance! Thanks for sharing.

I have to ask - As avid and energetic as some of these pet peeves are - If a build with one or more of each of our peeves is displayed - is it discounted entirely or can we learn and grow or be inspired by what we see in other people's builds weather we agree with how they did it or not? Isn't that the reason this forum exists?

I know how the Mopar Oranges are different and I know how difficult some Mopar people are about it. My buddy painted his 440 Six Pack R/T engine and headers White as well as the inner fender-wells. You have NO idea how much that increases the visibility at night at a small town local drag strip or especially on the side of the road! I needed an orange for a 440 Six Pack I am building - I had Testors "Competition orange" - Guess what I used? I claim artistic license!

Sorry - I have to claim artistic license. I'm pretty sure Tom Daniels did when he designed many of his kits that are now considered icons of our hobby. What about Ricki Couch or Winston (Spelling may not be correct - heck the people I'm referencing may not be correct) their builds were EPIC. If a builder wants to paint his undercarriage bright pink - I'm pretty sure they can - it is their model. Now if they enter it in a contest and don't win and then have a tantrum about it - then there is a problem. On to the pet peeves that everyone wants. Stance is everything! - what-ever the suspension travel would be in scale. So it would ride like a buck-board - I ain't driving it - I'm looking at it on a table or shelf. Steering columns that are in impossible angles and could never connect to the steering box in any way - and it is very visible especially on a hot rod or roadster with opening doors. A builder using tons of aftermarket parts on a model - but the model isn't that great. Stance is off, wheels aren't square, colors are not complementary to each other. Builds that confuse themes. A drag car with BBS wheels - for example. Chrome wheels on a 90s and later road race car. Rub-on tire decals on tires the manufacturer never made! 14 in wide Tiger paw slicks? Really? Rub-on tire decals that don't follow the proper contour of the tire. When you do it- it highlights the mistake! I'd rather see NO lettering detail. Wings turned backwards. Panel seams made too dark - almost like the door jambs were painted black right up to the edge. Wide tires not sitting flat on the table. A pro street car - untubbed with tires that aren't more than 10 inches wide - slicks or not. People do race their pro street cars sometimes. "Chrome" Centerline auto drags. Chrome brake discs. Roll bars being called roll-cages without a halo bar or forward down bars(at the A-pillar - attached to the floor in the drivers and passengers foot-well) Rule of thumb - you sit in front of a roll-bar and you sit inside a roll-cage. Lastly - roll-cages built with NO consideration of stresses and sheering force. Consult a rule book - go to websites of vendors of 1:1 scale bars and cages - like Alston, S&W Chassis works, or even photos taken on the web. There has to be photos of a build similar to yours SOMEWHERE on the web. The web is huge! I'm really glad someone didn't start extolling the virtues of the perfect Hemi engine orange. It's Orange! As long as they didn't paint it tangerine - there would HAVE to be a Hangin'.

I have seen alot of this! I saw a vintage Corvette (survivor - not restored) with various amounts of paint coverage (some gel-coat was visible) and paint consistency the ranged from perfectly smooth to orange peel that looked like sandpaper. All on the same Car!!!

To paraphrase the great Burt Reynolds: For the challenge, the money(or lack there-of), and for the fun. Or - He just wanted to. Imagine the conversations he'll have with people! What are the laws regarding spraying a full sized car at home in your area? I know it is kinda frowned upon here in my neck of suburbia - but people do it anyway. Is his house attached to his garage? Spraying - and the fumes - could strain the best of relationships. I wanna spray - but can't due to my garage being under the kids' bedrooms. Over spray becomes a big problem also. My former employer had to pay for buffing or full paint jobs when the spray booth wasn't closed properly while spraying a fire truck. DuPont Imron is really stubborn - it sticks to everything! I know I would try to find a booth or rent space in someone elses - if I really needed to paint a 1:1 car.

I LOVE this build! Great action shot! I'm wondering when someone will use Photoshop to do the same thing.

Love the timer tip - I've used it but the settings on my point and shoot were most likely off - I'll have to try and use your settings and see what happens. Great how-to! Thanks

You are very correct, Sir! Every time there is a question asked - even the ones that come up again and again (like painting, airbrush and paint booths) gives us all another opportunity to share our knowledge including new findings. Other board members can always just move on or post a link to the previous thread. Please be helpful. We are an open forum - there will be all degrees of building skill and computer skill and intellect and patience. One thing I really love about this hobby is how kind many of us can be - but there will always be difficult people in all arenas.

Yup - Harbor Freight. Drill Master - Item number 94606. The drills are metric. Thirty drill bits in all. Sizes: 0.5mm - 5 bits 0.6mm - 5 bits 0.8mm - 5 bits 1mm - 3 bits 1.2mm - 2 bits 1.5mm - 2 bits 1.8mm - 2 bits 2mm - 2 bits 2.35mm - 2 bits 3.0mm - 2 bits All for $3.99. I haven't used them yet - but I'm looking forward to trying them.

A few years ago either Hot Rod Magazine or Car Craft had a multi page article on painting a Ford Falcon with a roller. I came out pretty good - but you need to let it dry - which takes days and days. That and you have to be really good with wet-sanding and a buffer. Do some web searches - it is popular. I've seen cars painted with spray bombs that looked pretty good. Spray bomb camo jobs are popular here - lots of hunters. I would also be very fearful of a professional shop using a roller when they have all the resources to thin what-ever paint they are using and spraying it in their paint booth. Maaco and Earl Sheib is more professional! I have wondered about using Rust-oleum thinned with lacquer thinner sprayed with an airbrush to paint black model parts. I'm fearful of paint build-up and the fact that it is oil-based. I would like to find straight enamel (not oil-based) or straight lacquer.

Sorry, but I HAVE to disagree on this one. Totally useless? After you do a search - you still have to sort and find the right info - wheather you are searching Google, dogpile, altavista or MCM search. I find that the time spent while using the MCM search is almost equal to using a general web search. At least at the MCM site you are guaranteed the meat of the subject will address car building and you have a established source to answer questions. When I want more info I use both MCM and general web searches.

While this seems to be a good suggestion - I would recommend the message board search as a very reasonable solution. I have almost always found everything I was looking for. This is a build by a forum member. It covers some very sound basic building skills. I have found it helpful. Mr Obsessive's '49 Merc build

Does anyone have one of these? $74.99 - Harbor Freight How do you use it? Do you use it often? How does it save you time in your builds? Does it increase your creative ability? Should I buy one?

I REALLY need to learn German! This race is turning out to be a very big thing with hardcore grassroots racers due to the net. SpeedHunters.com has some really great photos of the 24 hours of the N-ring qualifying and also of the Pike's Peak Hillclimb.

Great how-to buddy! Thanks for sharing!

The title of the post says it all!

OK I have an Acura Integra. It has no casing around any of it's four doors but it DOES have a fixed B-pillar. Is it a coupeish sedan? Or a Sedanish coupe? Now I have a complex - the car is as much of a misfit as I am! Like I need more anxiety!