seeker589

I Love it!

Great build! The finish is very nice. I liked the Dupli-color Chrome paint under the finger-nail polish. What did you use to thin the finger-nail polish? Normally it's lacquer. Is the Dupli-color Chrome lacquer? What did you prime the body with? Sorry for all the Questions - but inquiring minds want to know!

John - Very impressive work! I find your builds to be inspiring. Thank you for sharing. What glue/adhesive do you use to build your chassis? I'm finding that chassis fab is a challenge - and I'm using rectangle styrene.

Update: Since I felt the silver soldered frame looked a bit flimsy and the S10 frame looked a bit bulky - I decided to fab my own frame. I used evergreen stock. Frame rails are .100x.188 rectangle. The front cross member is from the tree of a kit in my stash. Gussets are from some plastic stock I pilfered form a trash can at work. The rear Kick-up is one scale foot. I'm still trying to figure out what kind of front suspension to use - quarter elliptical, torsion bar, or VW Beam axle. The beam axle will be the simplest - unless I decide to fabricate one! Any suggestions would be welcome! The rear suspension will most likely be coils and radius rod. I've chosen to use a Datsun 280ZX turbo motor/trans. In 1:1 scale they are rather plentiful in the northeast and they tend to rot out around a perfectly good motor. Upon examination the body was not very square - I glued it together out of alignment. A slight sanding accident presented an opportunity to glue it back together a bit more square or in much better symmetry. I also started cleaning up the body - shaving the door handles and smoothing the transitions. More later this week if we are both lucky.

I love it! I'm gonna have to do the whole salt/rust trick. I hope mine will turn out as nice as yours!

I'm thinking that would be cool too. The learning curve would be REALLY steep on that, however. I've not soldered for quite some time. That and when the diameter of the round tube is scaled out - it comes to something like 2 and 1/2 inches diameter tubing. Maybe if I use HEAVY build primer? If I don't use it on this build - I'll use it on a drag car build I have in mind later. You WILL see it again. It has a wonderfully spindly quality. The S10 frame looks too bulky.

OK kids - I'm starting an ambitious project. Especially after a rather long hiatus. This is heavily influenced by the Car Craft Dream Rod and the mind of Tex Smith - Former Editor of many Petersen pubs and former owner/publisher of (the now dead) Hot Rod Mechanix. While at Petersen - he worked briefly for Car Craft and, realizing that good old steel was becoming rare (even back in the early 60s) he conceived the Dream Rod. A Hand built hot rod special using various currently available late model body panels on a Jowett Jupiter Chassis using a VW Beetle front suspension. Or was that the XR-6. now I'm confused! While writing for his own Magazine - he built what he called a "Buck a Pound Roadster". The hope was to build a traditional style Roadster for one dollar for each pound it weighs - about 2200lbs. It wasn't gorgeous - but it had an acceptable stance and looks quite traditional. For more info on this - follow this link: Buck-a-Pound article My plan is to use semi-late model steel (in plastic/scale form) to build a traditional-esque roadster that can be built (in 1:1 scale) for about $2200. Yes this will use old parts - won't include an engine/tranny rebuild and the paint might be a bit wonky - but I want flavor! I haven't decided on the chassis. In the photos it is sitting on a AMT S10 frame. Years ago I fabbed a chassis out of silver solder(in various silver densities)at work. I may finish soldering that or just create a chassis from plastic stock. I'm looking for loooooong and loooooow. For the body - I'm starting with an AMT ProShop '64 Galaxie kit (see it here next to a t-bucket used for sizing and comparison purposes): I made this jig to hold the doors (reversed side to side and front to back) evenly with an attractive taper: Here is what I had after a few hours of hacking: The cowl is a section of the Galaxie roof. The firewall and rear bulkhead are plastic stock. I am planning on shaving the door handles and filling in the body seam. I will keep the outstanding trim, however. I then cut a section out of the tail-light panel/rear fender/trunk portion of the Galaxie's body to create a front body section: Let me know what you think. I can't guarantee it won't come out looking like a pile of feces - but I'll learn from it! This is gonna be a slow project as I am having to re-teach myself some things (like how Zip-Kicker ROCKS!!!), buy supplies as they are needed, and juggle real life duties. Just stick with me!

Build a Mopar BADLY and sit back and wait for the comments to come pouring in! Just kidding! People normally will comment on what they know or within their interest group. I guess it's just human nature.

I have used DOT 3 brake fluid in a food storage container - Rubbermaid-like or one of the reusable Zip-lock containers - I purchased at a local dollar store. Mark the container with a Sharpie so you don't inadvertantly put left-over casarole in it. I soaked it for about a day and, with rubber gloves on, I washed the parts thouroughly with warm water. If one day doesn't get the paint off - put it back in the brake fluid for another day. Repeat until the desired results. The parts aren't entirely uneffected by the soak - for example - white parts may come out a nice tan/cloudy color. Or colored parts come out the molded color - only cloudy. But if your painting it really doesn't matter.

I love Drug Arrest Confiscations! There are some rather unorthodox police cars also. Like Vettes and Mustangs. I think I saw a Lambo once - or was that on Need for Speed?

Yup - what he said.

Whoo - Hoo! That Porsche looks fast enough to scare ya! Nice paint! Love how smooth it is - a skill that has evaded me. Thanks for telling us what you use.

Cars with purpose. cars that may not be the prettiest - but those with a character all their own! like these: I know my likes are complicated.

Harold - God Bless you and your daughter. I am truly sorry for your loss. I am also upset because your ex-wife didn't enjoy her sobriety until she lived a long life. Your Ex-wife was wrongly discharged and irresponsibly treated in the mental (medical drug enduced)state she was in. If legal action is the route you go - legal consultation is normally about $100 an hour. If you start down this road - don't hire your first consulting Attorney - do a few interviews. Go with the lawyer that you find most suitable to you. Retainer fees for good attorneys aren't cheap but be leary of attorneys that work with no retainer - they may want a large cut of the settlement or result of the suit. I wish I would have had this kind of advice before my divorce. I'm very sorry if it comes accross harsh or out of place here - love and relationships are about feelings and passions - law-suits are business.

Congratulations! Is there an article or tutorial on this?

I sure hope you are talking about a firearm. Happyness is where you find it!

It's whatever we want it to be. Gotta help a fellow modeler however we can!

A wife is a gift from God - it proves he has a sense of humor. But really - there is a real truth to the term "happy wife - happy life". It's not wise to begin createing a rift that could become a chasm. Work with her - express to her that you really value the creativeness of modeling. The fitness and relaxation of cycling is also addicting. They both CAN be quite expensive. Lay down a budget and stick to it. Relish getting new stuff. Involving her in the hobby is not a bad idea. Building creates challenges and triumphs - share them with her. She may become more empahetic to your hopes and dreams. Good Luck with getting your degree. When we stop learning - we die. I am REALLY a hopeless romantic.

A great way to make some Capitol! Ba-dump-bump!

That thing is off the HIZ-OOK! Fo-shizzle!

Mugs, T-shirts and Shot Glasses - OH MY! I would love some MCM swag! I recommend a store on the website. You could do hats, too.

Cool Trains 106 West Main Street Salunga PA 17538 http://www.cooltrains.com/

I remember shopping there. Well stocked place. I was in the Sacramento Auto Modelers while I was stationed there. McClellan Was my last Air Force assignment.

I just found the best hobby shop! I haven't seen a shop like this since I lived in Sacramanto California. OK maybe I'm exaggerating. Cool Trains in Landisville, PA - near Lancaster. They sell kits, paints, detail stuff(hoses, wheels, some photo-etch), plastruct, k&s tubing, trains, etc. They even buy and sell collections. I'm a happy boy!

Hammerhead!