Cato

Although from a previous model Rolls, this 20-25 engine reference has been the inspiration for my 'aging' process:

Thank you Jay. That's actually a copper head gasket. It's located between the cylinder head and the cylinder blocks. It seals the combustion chambers and the water jackets. There's a slight gap in the pictures because the head is just placed on-not glued yet. The cork gasket will go between the valve cover and the one-piece head when it's near finished.

Nice job hinging the front clip Jay. You're sweating most of the details. I had that same air pan (called a Turkey pan) on my 1:1 and it was .0625" thick ally. So I did the model with .005-the drip guard under the rear window too. I did that door bulkhead similar to you-I used .005 aluminum. Now if only you did the highly visible trailing arms and and anti-roll bar from .075" coat hanger.... Again-shame on Trumpeter for cutting such corners.

Yes everything gets a little 'distressed' Eric. The starter however has some slight Rub 'n Buff scuffs which look like highlights. But it's very obscure in the chassis behind the 90 degree exhaust collector.

You're not. Unless you put a ton of test-fitting into getting the nose clip to; A. fit correctly, B. open in a scale way-you have a lot of work. Now made near impossible by finish paint. To solve that, I (with difficulty) fastened the nose permanently and left the hatch as a lift off to see the drysump tank etc. I know you want your resin spare to show. You won't see any suspension or tires in front. Nor the holed panels you did in front of the doors. Many disappointments the way Trump engineered it. I only saw one guy hinge the hatch on the web-it's very hard.

The Tamiya clear blue and reds work well for that. A mist of very fine gray acrylic helps add scale affect. If you mean 1/25 scale, fuel lines between .015" and .020" are correct. Try automotive touch up colors to find Argent.

In spite of the praise, I wasn't happy with the terminals and wire I did. Looked clunky and big after a day of looking at it. So I made newer, smaller diameter wires with solder terminals. The pigtail will hide in the frame rail. Eight more hours work. Also added a casting boss that the magneto now bolts to instead of floating. Before: After:

Upol? Not to hi-jack but would like to keep this discussion of clears all together. I've seen some good reviews on the web about Upol clear. Any experienced users here can shed some light on it?

Masking and painting your own stripes is actually easier than the decals. I used 3/32 " Chartpac tape for the separation between the main stripes and 1/16" for the rockers. Your rear clip sits very well.

Thanks Dave.

What scale is that Dave? Beautiful build and weathering. I have the HO Rivarossi in mint condition but would like a larger scale. I love these monsters-the GG-1 also a fave. Edit: pardon my ignorance but who was DM&I?

Thanks for the support guys... 18 pages, near 200 photos and I've got the ignition, the whole other side of the engine, and the whole rest of the CAR to go...

Latest; some details added not in the kit:

You could get creative with some gizmology. I made hoses with the AN fittings run into the bulkhead corner. You could make AN cap fittings and put them in the holes. I think it would look like an unfinished area if it was filled and blanked. Here's my pumps, correctly plumbed. BTW, I made an external plate from .005" ally just as you did but wasn't happy. George Stauffer's resto (which Trump used for this model-hence the rollbar) mounted them on a plate like yours. But he did that for ease when vintage racing, not LeMans accuracy. I got them behind the bulkhead correctly but it was a b*#)!. Get good pics of the Stewart Warner 240A pumps for detailing-they're very visible: Here's the empty side:

Yes, I like the battery holder-and the attention to detail. You'll have to get creative plumbing the extra three pumps and sadly, the 1:1's had that big door gap. But I did mine 'my way' and you should too.

Al, In my opinion, forget the modern modulars. The 'blow-away' choices for a T-bolt are the 429 Boss Shotgun or the Cammer. Others can help you with what kits they come in.

'Zackly! I obviously have a split personality-I love art and realism. Which will prolly make for a crappy model... But the weathering is straight off the reference photos. Edit: But in my pitiful defense, I think I do have continuity in the weathering; engine, drivetrain and exhaust. Parallel continuity on the art side with bronze parts, ss springs and rods, clevises and levers...

:lol:

Stains, minor leaks, heat and mild corrosion were my goals for a used but dignified relic. Let me know how badly I missed the mark. Some may rightly think I'm 'mixing my metaphors...'

Engine and gearbox detail- Underlying finishes applied so assembly can begin. Materials used; Alclad II white ally, and magnesium, (airbrushed at 12 psi) 5 different craft acrylics (thinned with Windex and bolstered by Future), Tammy smoke, 2 different Rub & Buffs, graphite, sand and khaki enamels, airbrushed. Parts are loose in place; the front cover is askew and the cylinder head is backward, with the intake on the wrong side in a couple of shots-sorry. Not to everyone's taste. The stark flash and dim natural light make it difficult to capture but it's more subtle in person:

Thanks JW.

Thanks for a nice tip. Sounds ideal for guide coating.

I'm sure the expected price is way low-even with a thorough tear-down and engine rebuild needed: http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2014/06/19/164-jaguar-e-type-barn-find-has-bugatti-racing-pedigree/?intcmp=features

Thanks Bill.

They were not wired in an endurance race.