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Thanks Steven and Jon! Steven: I remember seeing Testors' paints somewhere here in Finland. I just can't remember who sold them, but I will have to try their clear lacquer for sure if I can find it somewhere. This might be a dumb question, but I want to make it sure so if I find Testors paints I don't pick the wrong bottle . So is this the correct stuff? Another thing I've been wondering is if Tamiya's TS-13 Clear works with Enamels. I'm going to test that soon. Jon: With old paints it's possible to get interesting results... I've tried that, too. I don't know what went wrong in my case, as the paint wasn't too old, but I hope light sanding and re-spray will work fine on this.

Too good to be Revell? My friend had the original issue of this kit and I remember it wasn't as good quality as Revell's new kits are. There were some fit issues during the final assembly (if I remember correctly) and some of the parts were not so detailed as parts in new Revell kits. In my opinion the only manufacturer that makes better kits than Revell is Moebius Models.

That's a truly incredible Model! Looks like every time I say it's Real it's Model and when I say it's Model it's Real. Maybe next time I'll pick the one I think it isn't .

Unfortunately, the only way is to wait for a while and the pics will show up again. I've had that same problem a couple of times and at the first time I opened a new account. I can't say for sure how long you'll have to wait, but it's less than a month anyway.

Yep! I bet the groceries are home before they warm up or melt. Very cool Nomad, I like the Primer paint job and the stance is just perfect. I think it looks like an old Drag Car that has been sitting for a while and now someone has started working with it again. Very neat build! Only improvement I might do would be BMF on the chrome trim. It would look maybe a bit more realistic. But other than that I say it can't be built much better!

I have an airbrush and I really like it. It's a Badger 250 that works really well and it's quite simple to use, too. The problem why I use spray paints is that I haven't found a paint that works with the airbrush. Revell and Humbrol Enamels work well otherwise, but my experiences with Revell clear are not very good. It flaked off with BMF and Humbrol's clear will turn yellow during the years. My plan is to try Tamiya Acrylics with the airbrush next, but I'll need to gather some information about them first. I know a couple of modelers here in Finland have used those paints succesfully with an airbrush, so I'll have to ask them about painting those and what clear is suitable. I'll have to practise using Alclad Chrome, too, so the airbrush will be in use really soon, I guess.

Well that's a great deal, Jason! Congrats! I think the car looks very good, and with a good chassis and engine it should be really consistent as well. Do I remember correct if I say that you drove a Junior Dragster before? If so, I bet you'll have no trouble getting used to driving that car and especially driving consistent times and RT's. Reactions are very hard for me, sometimes I get a pretty good light, but I might also take a big red light or then I'm way too late. James: Yep they are. I'll have to fix that... I got the seat smoothed out and painted it. I wasn't completely sure if the real seat was upholstered with these colors, but at least this is the original style. It's not perfect, but I think I can live with it.

Gassers are really tricky, as many people don't know the rules and everyone has seen lots of "Gassers" that are nowhere near the rules. I've built a couple of those too, but now when I finally found the rules that won't happen anymore. One thing that most people don't remember is that Gassers had to sit in a level stance. Nose up stance wasn't allowed. Altereds had often the nose up stance and Altered rules were a lot more free than Gasser rules, so if you think building a Gasser gets way too complicated, it's a good idea to turn it into an Altered. See these old NHRA Rulebooks at Terry Sumner's Fotki page. They have Gasser rules as well. http://public.fotki.com/tsumner/nhra-rulebooks/

My dad has used these decals once. They were ordered via Model Express (That is unfortunately out of business nowadays) so there's no experience in dealing with actual Decals By Lucas, but I know the decals are very good quality and easy to install.

Really nice start! I'll be watching this very closely. I like the idea of Pro Sportsman chassis under a Dart body, I might have to buy a Dart body and do something similar to this at some point, it looks so good. But I have to say that this is not a Pro Stock car, it's more like a Pro Sportsman/Comp Eliminator or something like that. Pro Stockers have very limited rules and as this looks like it wouldn't fit into that category.

Very nicely done Chevelle Wagon! I like the paint job and those decals fit perfectly and give it a nice Race Car look. It's not a Pro Stock car though. Pro Stockers had (and still have) very tight rules and for example blown engines like this are not allowed. And then you have G/SA text on the rear window, which means G/Stock Automatic and this is definitely not a Stocker, either. I mean that it's a really nice build and you did a truly fantastic job with it. As a real Stock Eliminator driver these classifications just caught my eyes and I wanted to let you know, so with your next Drag Car build choosing the right class would be a bit easier. It's a very nice build, as always! Keep these coming !

Thanks Guys, I appreciate the kind words! Yep. That's my plan. Only problem is that there is only a little paint as the cracking started before I was able to shoot any wet coats on it. So it will be hard to sand so that it won't go through the paint. But I hope I can make it and then just spray more paint on it, then the second color for the top and then some clear...

Thanks Everyone! I'm happy to have it back on the bench, too as it is a nice car and I think the stance came out pretty good. I'm going to sand the body soon and I'll see if I'm able to just shoot more paint on it or if I have to start all over again with the body. The wheels are painted with Revell Copper. I can't remember the number for it, but I think Revell has only one Copper paint color.

Thanks Guys! Carl: Mainly I'm using a two part putty that's also used on real car bodies. It's really good stuff and it don't shrink, but it's a bit hard to sand when you put it into tricky spots. So other putty I use is Squadron's White Putty (or Green Putty), because those are really easy to sand. But these two do shrink so when the surface needs a lot of putty or a thicker coat of it, I use the two part stuff. But on tricky places, like the chassis I like to use the one part putties too. For example on this chassis first two coats of putty were done with the two part stuff. After those the surface was pretty smooth already and it needed only a little putty, so I used White Putty for the next coats. My spray filler is from a local auto parts dealer. But I believe just about any spray filler will do, as this company can't be found in the USA I guess. I hope this makes sense.

Sorry guys I'm late with the reply. But finally the Olds got some progress! Anyway Thanks for the comments! I knew the ribs were polished stainless steel. By painting them I tried to say that I would need to try paint them to look like polished stainless if I wanted. Today I took this one back to the bench. It needed some sanding and smoothing, but nothing too much and I was able to mask off the top and spray some color on it! It wasn't very successful try, though as there are some cracks visible on the rear end. I don't know why that happened, but it will need to be sanded. If I don't sand through the paint I'll just spray another coat on, but if I do I have to start all over again. Anyway the hood got some Primer.

Thanks Russ! I appreciate it. Here's a bit more. Not much or nothing special, but something done anyway. I painted the second interior color on the backseat and door panels. It is flat white from Revell and it didn't work out as good as I hoped. The brush marks are showing a bit too much and it needed two coats so there is a lot of paint now. And yep, next time I'll use masking tape. The interior will need some paint touch ups with black and blue before I can call it good. Then I can start putting BMF on door panels... I also got the engine from paint stripping. Most of the paint is gone, but glue is still there. I guess I'll have to remove it myself then. Well, luckily it's not a big thing to do.

Thanks Guys! Yep, Danno you're right. Luckily the chassis is slowly getting there and maybe I can shoot some paint on it in a week or something. This kit definitely needs some updating, but I believe it's possible to turn out into a nice model with smaller modifications, too. Here's a bit more. I sanded the chassis smooth and I thought it would be time for a coat of spray filler. There were many minor things that would have needed more putty, so now when I just sprayed on some spray filler, I got most of them covered. There still is sanding and minor putty work to do, but nothing too dramatic. I must do some interior work today, so another update might be coming later on, stay tuned.

Yep Andy is right, that's what my kit says, too. I think the engine in that kit is pretty poor, too and I'm installing a Chevy Big Block on mine. Well, there's a lot work in that kit anyway with the amount of flash and ejector pin marks etc it has.

Really nice Salt Flat Racer. I like the look of those wheels (Or are they hubcaps?) and great work with the details. Engine bay looks very realistic. Also the colors on those parts are spot on... They look like real metal to me. Agreed, more pics would be nice.

Thanks everyone for the information! I will buy the Monogram kit as they can be found quite easily and the chassis detail is better than AMT's. This won't be a super detail build as it will not stay on my shelf once it's done, but I'll try to do my best with it...

Ouch, that's a Bummer! I'm sorry to hear that, but I know you'll be able to fix that one soon. As someone said, it was good it wasn't painted and riveted. I dropped a completed chassis by an accident, too a while ago so I know how it feels. Well it's just a little speed bump, I know you'll fix it so that it looks perfect!

Thanks Fellas, I appreciate the kind words! Aaron: I think this kit is all in all worth buying and building, even if it has some problems. I'll try to do it a justice. Glenn: Thanks for the information. I will mock up those parts when I get the interior together to see if there is a problem and if I can fix it. Your Nomad looks good too! Jason: The actual removing process is nothing compared to sanding... :lol: Brad: Yep I noticed the B-pillar being molded to the windows. I was thinking about the same thing as you did that I would cut the side windows away and not to install them. That C-Pillar modification might be a good idea, too. I'll think about it. Here's a little update. I sanded the putties on the chassis and I was surprised how smooth it was. However, a little amount of putty was still needed, but I'm probably going to sand it smooth today and see if I can already shoot some Primer on it. I also started painting the interior. First, I painted the floor flat black and then painted the seats and door panels with the first color, which is light blue from Revell. It's actually more blue in person, somehow it looks like turquoise in the pics.

Looks like this kit has arrived in Model RoundUp. In my opinion $21.90 is not a bad price, either. This is one kit I really need to have! http://www.modelroundup.com/product-p/amt-r2-865.htm

Dang that's cool! I really liked the Roadkill Episode where they were running with this car and your model looks excellent! Very nice and clean.

Thanks, Michael! Right now the weather is really nice, it has been about 90 Fahrenheit degrees during the last couple of days. In general, Finnish summers are really warm, but quite short. It rains just too often... And you're right. There are really cool cars in Scandinavia. I guess Sweden is the leading country, but there's really cool stuff in Finland, too. For example I was on local Cruising Night yesterday. It was the Helsinki Cruising (Or as we Finns call it "Stadin Cruising"). There were hundreds of American Cars from 1910s to 2010s. Hot Rods, Muscles, '50s Classics etc. And many of them were really nicely finished so that they could compete seriously in U.S. car events, too. There are many rare and beautifully engineered Drag Cars, too... For example here in Finland there is a real Mercury Cougar Eliminator as a Stock Eliminator race car, real SS AMX running in Super Stock, one guy has Jim Waldo's former World Record setting Ford Fairlane (It came Finland in the '80s or early '90s, can't remember for sure). And many others, too. I think some of you might find it interesting to look at my YouTube channel for Finnish Drag Race videos or Cruising Burnouts... Lots of cool stuff there. https://www.youtube.com/user/chevypickups/videos And my Picture Gallery: http://tapahtumakuvia.kuvat.fi/kuvat/