Longbox55

Meijer keeps it in their Automotive section. I can't speak for other stores, but mine has them on a shelf on the back wall of the store, near the end of the aisle that the motor oil and filters are in. They originally had it in the aisle with the car care products, car wash, wax, cleaners, but moved when they did a minor reset last year. As far as price, they're on par with the parts stores for a regular price.

Do you have a Meijer store in your area? I can't speak for all of them, but the one near me does carry a small assortment (popular colors) of Perfect Match, including the clear. Prices are reasonable, and they do run 2 for 1 specials with some regularity.

I agree with you, Bill. I only had the acrylic lacquer on hand for use on a different non-model project that I used their black acrylic lacquer on. I gave it a try on a body I painted with Perfect Match partially just to test it out, and it seemed to work fine. Used it on later build that needed a clear, but I didn't want to fool with getting the airbrush out to use my usual Paint Shop clear (which also works great with Perfect Match) without issue. Only thing I can think of that was different was the high humidity, and perhaps that I was rushing the job a bit. It did cure fine after an extra day of cure time. However, it will not be my "go-to" clear for sure. More like "last resort".

How was the humidity in your area when you sprayed it? I recently ran into the same issues on a build from last week I was trying to get finished before a club meeting. didn't get fully dry until the day after the meeting (2 full days after last coat) after the humidy dropped a bit. I had never had problems with that clear before.

The nozzle more controls the size of the spray pattern, rather than flow of the paint being sprayed, depending on type of airbrush used. Even then, there's adjustments that can be made. On a single action, like a Passche H, the tip can be twisted on the needle to adjust the flow. On a double action, the flow control is done with the trigger, adjusting the needle forward and back. Airflow is really more important, as the paint will not move without airflow, and the amount of airflow will dictate just how much fluid will move. Very similar to how carburetor works. Working pressure also comes into play. I usually shoot Alclad with a medium tip, 10-12 psi, and very light touch on the trigger. Passes are made very light, and I stop when it looks like chrome (usually 2-3 light passes).

'40 Ford 3/4 ton. Note the major differences in the front clip from the kit, which is a 1/2 ton. (note, not my pic, found on the web)

The AMT AMC Pacer ahs the OHV AMC 6, and the AMT '41 Plymouth has the flathead Chrysler 6. The Trumpeter Nova has the 3rd generation Chevrolet 6. For the Chevrolet V6, both Monogram and AMT have done the 4.3 V6 in the Vortec configuration, the Monogram version also comes in the Turbocharged Syclone version. The 2.8 60 degree V6 has been done in at least the Monogram Fiero and I'm pretty sure that the AMT Beretta has it as well, both in the FWD configuration (the RWD version is a different block), Monogram has also done the 3.8 Buick V6 in both the GNX and the Firebird GTA. Something that might be worth noting, with the mention of the Chevrolet 6 cylinders, they do fall into certain years of production, with little to no overlap. Even within certain families of those engines, there's variations that were only done for certain years, and would incorrect for earlier or later vehicles. A quick breakdown, with kit sources listed: AMT/MPC '32 Chevrolet Cabriolet/'33 Panel Truck; This engine would only be correct for a '29-'36. This engine is considered the 1rst gen. AMT '50 Pickup, '51 convertible/Bel Air/Aerosedan,'37 Coupe/Cabriolet,Galaxy Limited Sedan Delivery/Aerosedan/Coupe, Revell '41 Pickup; Thise engine is the early 2nd Gen 216. It would be correct for Passenger car (manual transmission only) '37-52, Light Truck and Sedan delivery '37-'53. It could also pass for the early 235 found in the Heavy trucks, '41-'49. AMT and Monogram '53 Corvette, Monogram '53 Bel Air; Only kit versions of the early full pressure oiling 235. As they come in the kit, only correct for '53 Passenger with automatic transmission. The Corvette engines have many Corvette specific parts on them not used on regular Passenger. AMT '60 Pickups; Last of the 2nd gen engines. Correct for any Passenger or Truck '55-'62, some '63 4x4s did use this engine as well. The rocker cover will require some alteration to be accurate for '55-'58, as the oil filler is in the wrong location. Trumpeter Nova, AMT Nova Wagon; I can only really speak for the Trumpeter kit, but looking at the instructions from the AMT, they look similar in basic details. 3rd Gen engine. as it comes, correct for '62-'66 Nova, but can be easily altered for be correct for any 194/230/250 engine through the early '80s. Some extra alterations, and it can also pass for the 292 Truck engine. AMT '64 Chevelle Wagon; Again, another kit I have to go off the instruction sheet, as I have not seen the kit in person. Should be usable for the any Chevrolet '63 and up. Has a large slot in the block for the axle. Oil pan is reasonably correct for the mid and full size cars and trucks, unlike the Chevy II/Nova specific pan on the Nova kits. MPC/AMT '69 Firebird; Pontiac specific engine, not used by any other GM division.

"Traditional" rods almost never had the same size tires front and rear. Rear tires were pretty much always larger, ambulance tires were very popular. The car that Ace posted is an excellent example of the common tire combo from the early days of rodding.

It's a '55-'62 Chevrolet 235. It could also possibly be a '55-'58 261, would have to see the block a little better to tell for sure.

Universal Black is a regular non-metallic black. They also have an acrylic lacquer black in a different line that's real nice to work with. So far from my experience, Duplicolor works very well with both Testors and Tamiya lacquers.

No.

I know of a few other non 1 ton dual wheel trucks that are factory as well. The CJ Jeeps had a factory dual wheel option as well. Very rare. Consisted of a Spicer 70 rear axle, 16" dual wheels, and a heavier rear spring setup. Their intended purpose was for Jeeps equipped with either a post hole digger or a trencher.

That's more of a '70s Street Freak than a Gasser.

That is incorrect. Chevrolet and GMC offered dual rear wheels on 3/4 ton trucks from the mid '50s to around 1971 as a factory installed option. RPO 282.

That would scale out to roughly a 1" wide stripe in 1/24-1/25 scale. I can see uses for it, although I think it would be more useful if they were available in regular solid or perhaps pearl/metallic colors instead of the color-chrome that they have pictured. Perhaps checking with the manufacturer to see if they have other colors/types available?

Nice tip!

We have it here in the States, too. Hobby Lobby and Micheal's carries it here. I have a can of it, haven't tried it yet, though.

If you're just doing a gloss black, Alclad black base is about the best I've seen. Lays down a perfect gloss every time. After that, BPS gloss black tractor paint from TSC, which I think is now sold as Valspar, puts down a very glossy finish, too.

No, I did not see that it was a quote. My apologies if I offended.

Mercedes W31 Type 4.

While your method is sound, Frank, you can get better results using Alclads own black base and use less and thinner coats of paint. Their black base lays down very smooth and glossy, better than any other black I've ever used. One coat is usually enough for coverage, no clear required.

That's why I use the drill press. Mine is setup for lower rpm, as it's primarily used for drilling metal (high rpm=burned drill bit). Couple that with a properly maintained file or a good sharp blade that cuts instead of grabs, shouldn't have any problems. I'm not saying the Snakes method is wrong or bad in any way, just different methods to accomplish the same goal. I do like the book idea, and you block variant. That could potentially be used with my method as well (the block, not sure the book would be good with a drill press).

I can see the fire truck and tow trucks, plus the conversion on the '34 Ford, but a tandem axle wouldn't be a dualie. They are still single wheel. Now if they had dual wheels in the tandem, then yes. It seemed to be insinuated that pickups is what was meant. Especially with the connection to the other duallie thread.

It's a 394, but I seem to recall reading that it had been bored and stroked out to at least 450 cubes, maybe a little more than that. I'm glad to see this kit return. While I like the new tool kit, the old opening doors one has always been one of my favorites. Have 2 of them sitting in my stash waiting their turns (one original paint, one to either do the dark blue or black version), plus the demons version I built back in the '80s. Might have to get a few more of them, they make great street rods.