Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Steve Keck

Members
  • Posts

    485
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Steve Keck

  1. Rory, My setup has about four feet of ducting between the booth and where it exits through through the window about three inches above the sill. There has been no build up over three years that an old paint brush won't brush away. Steve
  2. I was OK until I got to the apron part. Shaking head violently.......mental image won't go away.......just won't go away.....just won't
  3. Gramps I disagree with you. Model lacquers are formulated for plastic and safe. If you mean automotive lacquers then specify automotive primer. Steve
  4. In my opinion there are three reasons to primer: To highlight flaws in the bodywork. Find Mark Taylor's excellent tutorial and read it all. To promote paint adhiesion ESPECIALLY if there will be any masking required. And, as a barrier between the paint and the body(work)when hot paints are used. I do not use primer under Alclad other than the chrome and stainless steel. Steve
  5. Latex gloves from Harbor Freight to keep my paint-eating perspiration off the model. I build so slow I know my paint has cured but I do protect the painted body in a clear storage box. I paint the transmission but will drill a hole in the front of the engine block to insert a stiff wire or tube to hold it. During final assembly I used to lay the chassis on a paper towel. Now I use black foam for the craft store. It runs less than a $1 a sheet If I have any concerns about final fit or alignment of parts I will pre-drill holes for inserting pins made from .020 or .032 brass rod.
  6. Welcome Chris! There are some real experts here to help. And many self-appointed ones as well! LOL! Steve
  7. Try solid core solder about .023 inches. It's more forgiving and has a sheen close to stainless steel.
  8. Matt, I ran across your post looking for another. I'm surprised none of the self-appointed experts have answered your question. I am not familiar with the 250 GT SWB or the GTO and I have not searched for pictures but I will give you what I have from experience. To stablize your photo etched slats notched to slot into each other I suggest a jig made of styrene strips to stablize all the fiddly little pieces. CA glue applied in small amounts from the backside. I have discovered the Parafilm will not stick to CA glue. So, maybe cover your work surface and exposed parts of the jig with Parafilm so you don't glue the grill to unwanted surfaces. Steve
  9. I really like the asymerical paint job! At first I thought it was me! You really nailed the matt paint! Steve
  10. Thanks, Russ. IIRC I used the houndstooth decals from the convertible kit. They come black over clear. The pace car kit has orange so be careful. Steve
  11. Declan, First I rarely use acrylics but two things come to mind reading your post. Tamiya makes a great low-tact masking tape in various widths. And the other is are you using primer? It helps paint adhere. Parafilm would have to be trimmed after it has been applied but it is even less agressive than the Tamiya tape. Steve
  12. Your're welcome! Yep, my design to hold the 396 until it went to its permanent home. Steve
  13. Thanks Jordan! IIRC the grill came in the kit but I had to grind off the back and finish the job with the back side of and Exacto blade. Steve
  14. Thanks Steve! As for the pulley system look up Billet Specialties and search for TruTrac in their catalog. The installation pdf's provide a nice line drawing for visual reference once you find your application. My biggest hurdle was aligning the variuos pulleys into one plain. I used .032 piano wire for mounting the bracket to the engine block and brass tubing to stand it off the propper distance. Start with the water pump and work out. And, don't forget to install a reverse direction water pump! Steve
  15. Thanks for the compliments! ["It would be great if you posted more. Any more pictures of the interior? "
  16. My first pau posting. I usually just lurk here and soak up all the great knowledge. I finally took some pictures I am happy with so here ya go: Revell's '69 Camaro Interior tub from the convertible pace car with package shelf from hard top 396 from the pace car Arrowhead Aluminum serpentine pulleys set mounted on scratch built bracket Scratch built after market A/C compressor and billet style alternator Suspension lowered 3 scale inches Aioshama wheels and tires Craft store acrylic paint for interior HOK paint under 2 part urethane clear coat Thanks for looking, Steve
  17. Here ya go: It looks better on this: Sorry. Couldn't resist. Steve
  18. "Doesn't seem all that risque Steve, you could always paint a top on..." More like risky! Scary at best.
  19. Thanks. Dave! Why the red 'x'?
  20. Jimmy Flintsone lists on his website a 1/25 scale figure titled "Double Dip Deb" There is no photo on his website and he just replied to me that he can't provide one either. I googled "DDD" and if it's there I missed it. Can anyone post one? I need to know if it's suitable for less-than-mature audiences. Thanks! Steve
  21. Nick, No one has answered you question about burnishing so I will. Once the masking tape is laid down there is a good chance wet paint may seep under it. To prevent this the edge of the tape must be rubbed down. Maybe finger pressure will be enough but if you must use a tool to press down the edge then be careful it does not scratch the primer or paint. We all use different tools to do this but consider the barrel of a cheap retractable ball point pen(tip retracted) or a round toothpick. Keep the tool almost parallel to the surface. Rub in the same direction as the edge, never across it as you could catch the tape edge and lift it up. You said: "What body work problems? the roof, all of that popped up after it was painted." Well, I can't see it in your photos so I will assume from your statement there are problems you can see. If they appeared after painting you may not be using the proper primer. If you are using automotive type paints they may be too "hot" and penetrating through the primer and partially dissolving the underlying plastic or putty. Don't ask me how I know this. Automotive type paints require automotive type primers. ScaleMaster would be your best bet to expand on this. Steve
  22. I respect my Glenlivet! I have never abused it to the point my hibatchi suffered! David, want to step in here? Steve
×
×
  • Create New...