Steve Keck

Brandon, since Nick can't drive them yet, I hope they are up on concrete blocks.

Great job! Harry's right. Bare metal foil is the way to go. Clear coating over Alclad will dull it as well.

GREAT JOB! 24 hours? I couldn't do it in 24 DAYS! wow

Declan, You say the paint is real automotive paint. Did you apply it yourself? And, if so, then what did you use for primer? And, what is the body made of - styrene or resin?

White shag carpet. David says it's just catching on in east Florida. Good thing his modeling is up to par because his home decorating is way behind!

Matt, Try Replicas & Miniatures. No website but here is a link to the catalog: http://public.fotki.com/davetoups/aftermarket_model_parts/replicas_and_miniat/ Here is the contact info for R&M: Norm Veber replmincomd@aol.com (410) 768-3648

Be careful. Sherwin Williams here closed out their Shurtape code CP-60 - but no plastic container. It seems to stick best to its self and nothing else.

So I'm posting our secrets on a public forum? It's not just your eye sight you're losing.

Look'n good, David! I really like the oil cooler. I know you can fix the orange peel. I wish you hadn't pointed out the stripes. Maybe you can delete that picture and only post future pictures at an angle (so only you and I will know).

Nice resurrection! I didn't realize the kit had poseable steering.

Twisted Knickers! Now there's an avatar opportunity!

My silk is woven. Your panty hose are knitted. 'nough said?

All American Models resin; donor kit is the AMT ’40 Ford sedan The roof was mastered using masking tape. Hopefully I improved it with surgical silk dyed black with Ritz dye. The structure of the woody was cast in resin without any wood grain detail. To add the wood grain I first primed and painted it with Testors Light Ivory. Then I scribed the wood grain with four sewing needles CA glued together. Next I washed the frame with raw umber and sealed it with two coats of Future, The flat panels are wood veneer. Flathead Ford engine is from Revell’s 40 Ford Street Rod kit #2894. Replica and Miniatures tires, fuel pump, dash, door pulls, handles and window cranks. Maybe chrome rings and hub caps – I forget – please forgive me, Norm. RB Motion spark plug boots Model Car Garage grill and fan License plate and window decals by ScaleMaster Thanks for looking

This is as comprehensive as it gets: http://www.socalcarculture.com/modelcarlinks.html

If you want an alternative to the MAD distributors here are two: RB Motion makes amazing boots from silicone. Check them out here: http://rbmotion.com/ If you really do want to make your own, then here is one way to do it. I copied this off the web sometime ago. (If someone knows who authored this let me know and I will give him credit.) Steve

Try not holding down the 'Post New Topic' button.

Mr. BIG (your caps not mine) your profile says you are 14 years old. Until you know the game I suggest you sit on the sideline and learn from the players. Unless Mr. Taylor is your personal friend you can tone it down.

Flattery? Just stating the obvious. Obvious if your eyesight allows it, that is LOL! Steve

Actually 1/12th scale. The 1:1 car is miniscule. The bonnet only comes up to mid-thigh at most. The kit is only 2 1/4 inches at the bonnet. It's 10 1/4 long and 5 1/2 wide at the rear fenders.

John, What prep work did you do and what did Dale do before the plating? Steve

Mark started with the Caterham Super 7. He had previously built six. This one surpassed all the others. Look closely at the photos. There are many variations of "7". Seven spoke wheels. Seven facets on filler caps and knobs. Jump in here anytime, Mark.

Sorry I'm late to the party. Can I still comment? I watched this throughout it's gestation period - part by part. It took longer than an elephant to be born LOL! What amazes me is that it stands up to macro digital photography - AT ANY ANGLE. Digital photography is unforgiving, unbiased, and fair - it shows every flaw. Mark's 7 stands up to it and comes out the winner. I can't find A flaw Mark and I have had many a philosophical discussion about modeling and what it takes to excel. The one characteristic that he possesses that sets him apart is that once he identifies a problem he chooses to fix it. So many of us just say "It's good enough".

Len, To shape the clamps I use a drill bit smaller than the desired final diameter. Press down hard and roll the bit over the clamp pressing against a surface that will yield to the pressure. I use a hard rubber 3M brand body putty squeegy about 2x3 inches. I roll the drill bit with a strip of hard wood to save my finger tips. To complete the screw glue a photo etched phillips head on the end of the wire. Steve

Thanks to everyone for your compliments. Hopefully I answered all you questions. Steve