Steve Keck

As clean and detailed as I expect from you! Does the driver's seat set on top of the "box" on the floor? And, what about the crotch straps for the harnesses?? With Depends for the passenger?

I get sedans and coupes and hardtops confused but, I'm pretty sure that's a panel truck.

Sean, You've ask a lot of questions in a small space. Not that there's anything wrong with that but some may fall through the cracks and not get answered. And, most of us here do follow the rule; "There is no stupid question" so do ask. I get from your post that you want to take the leap from painted, out of the box (OOB), to fully kit bashed with scratch built parts and after market parts. I would first direct you to an excellent on-going-and-going how-to in the Tips, Tricks & Techniques section titled "Back to the Basics". Many of us who thought we knew it all have learned from Mark. It is a GIANT leap from OOB to some of the fully detailed models you refer to. Look in the Workbench section and then try and find the completed model in the Under Glass section. (Hint: Follow the link for the member originating the topic to their page then follow the "Topics" link to all their topics. Search for the Under Glass postings.) The attrition is significant. It's sort of a "eyes are bigger than our stomach" syndrome. I would advise you take some intermediate steps. Build another OOB with a fully detailed engine. Next time add a detailed under carriage. Or, maybe concentrate next on an custom interior as well as the detailed engine. My point is for you to succeed. I know of no aftermarket resin frames. As for turning any car into a dragster I refer you to your closest cruising spot on any weekend. If they can do it in 1:1, then you can do it in scale. One good starting point for tools and parts is here: http://www.socalcarculture.com/ It is an excellent photo reference site. The "Models" button at the top will take you to another page where half-way down is a link to 'Aftermarket Resources'. There lie many answers to your question "Where?".

Monty, How about posting a picture of your desired radiator cap so we don't have to guess? As for the oil dip stick: Drill an appropriate size hole for a hypodermic needle (some vets don't control them to the extent human health professional do). Used a cut off wheel in a Dremel to seperate the needle from the housing. Use eye protection. For the stick use piano wire that slides inside the needle. Use a small brad as a mandrel for the loop on the end. Grip the wire with needle nose pliers and twist a loop into the wire. I lock the brad in a vise. For the tranny stick use some brass strip from Special Shapes bent to shape. The strips come as small as 1/64 x 1/32 inch. If you want to make the cap on the stick that fits over the tube use the Special Shapes thin walled telecoping brass tubing. It starts as amall as 1/32 inch diameter.

Craig, There is an excellent discussion on airbrushes in the Tip, Tricks & Techniques Forum titled "What type of airbrush do you use?" I would advise you to connect with some of the clubs in your area. Members may let you test their setups. They may know of used systems or components for sale. In my opinion it is better to buy good working used equipment than spend the same amount on "budget" equipment.

Matthew, I've got to say that you are a bigger man than I. I would be very leery of using adhesive backed foil for masking or instead of BMF. I'd be afraid of it lifting the paint. What you are using for paint determines what you can clean up with. You didn't specify. If you are using enamels or lacquers try starting with 70% rubbing alcohol. Even Windex has alcohol in it. Don't use it on acrylics. Next try GooBGone on lacquers but not on enamels. A true polish such as Novus No.2 or some of the Meguiar's products can be painted over. Do not use anything that contains waxes, such as The Final Treatment, prior to clearing. I realize I gave you as many "don'ts" as "do" but I hope to get you started in the right direction.

Jason, Your work is legions ahead of your claim to this being your first model. Many here are not at your level. Two things are apparent to me from your photos. One is doable now and the other is for next time. Now you can add some sag to the plug wires as if gravity was having its way with them. For a later model you could fix a common omission by the kit makers that is my biggest peeve; that is the lack of an alternator bracket. Check out the Tip, Trick & Techniques Forum under "Need some scratchbuilding tips for making an alternator bracket from plastic strip" for some ideas.

About the only thing I can add here that hasn't been said is how this caveman decants Tamiya paints. And giving credit where it's due I got this from ScaleMaster who has been known to be capable of painting. To decant Tamiya directly into the airbrush cup force a two inch section of aquarium 1/8 inch air line over the blue nipple (I hope this doesn't get me banned) on the nozzle. Shoot directly into the cup. The paint will start to boil over. Insert the end of the tubing into the paint and this should stop the boil. I don't wait more than 15-30 seconds before spraying. Bob, I had to laugh at your "blindfolded in about a minute" comment. Whenever I dismantle my Tamiya I have to act like it's micro-surgery in a clean room because of those small parts. And, I still want your book!

Book? What Book? I want that book? I need that book!

I like where this one is going! Keep us updated.

Some never learn

Scott, Welcome! A good place to start is Mark Taylor's tutorial "Back to Basics" in the Tips, Tricks and Tutorial Forum. He writes about many basic tools as well as techniques. If you don't have a local hobby shop then this place stocks most tools: http://www.micromark.com/ I would add to unforgiven's reply that an Xacto handle is a necessity. And Super glue in small quantities as it goes bad(don't throw away the bottles that thicken up. You'll find uses for it) Super glue accelerator. If you have never used super glue then I would recommend some acetone based debonder as well. A six inch mill bastard file in addition to those Mark mentions. The sand paper is best obtained at an automotive paint distributor in the following grits: 320, 600, 1000, 1500 and 2000 I would add a two-speed rechargeable Dremel tool. Mine is a 4.8V from the blue big box store. I like it much better than my variable speed Dremel. It is a little bulkier in the hand but it melts less styrene. Bits, mandrels and sanding discs/drums are available from the same link above. Steve

Matthew, I don't have Dayton blower but I can provide you with some do's and don'ts. Don't restrict the airflow any more than is necessary. Don't save a few $ by stepping down in ducting diameter. Keep air flow direction changes to a minimum. Don't use flexible ducting. Use sheet metal ducting. Steve

OK, Monty. I am sure this qualifies as scratch building. I applaud you for saying "no" to my pet peeve: gravity defying alternators. This will get you what you want. Only it's akin to killing mosquitoes with a hand grenade. You will need: .020 inch sheet styrene or an old credit card. one push pin one block of wood one dark marker a pin chucked in a pin vise an x-y axis machinist vise drill press miniature shaping bit (the one shown is part of a 5 piece package from MicroMart) Chuck the bit in the drill press and set the speed to the slowest Cut a piece of the styrene and darken it with the marker Use the pin to mark all cuts Use the push pin to hold the styrene on the wood block which is held in the vise. Your goal is to cut three concentric arcs into the styrene like this: To mount the bracket I suggest piano wire set into the engine block and small diameter brass tubing to hold it away from the block. Good Luck!

Troy, Nice paint! Is it too late to attach the back piece to the rear seat?

Pat, You've got a good start goin there! You've inspired me to start my '66 Chevelle wagon. I think I'll post it here too. Whoops! I don't mean right in the middle of your topic. This one's all yours.

Crazy, The Alclad II website has your answer: http://www.alclad2.com/techinfo.html#english

LOL! I just filled out a US passport application. NOTE TO EVERYONE! SIGNIFICANT PRICE INCREASE EFFECTIVE TUESDAY! They ask for hair color. Bald isn't listed as a color. What's a guy to do?

I'm confortable in my hairlessness. And, you may address me as such in the future.

I can't answer you about the Frogtape, however, I can offer some related advice. Locally, the Frogtape and an impersonator were both sold at Sherwin Williams. Frogtape was going for $9 a roll and Shurtape went for $2 on close out. Both were 1 1/2 inches by (I'm guessing) 300 feet. Both look like the wide Tamiya tape. Shurtape would only stick to itself.

My guess is we're not throwing them hard enough!

J. Sauber, Know why cats land on their feet?

Bring it on, pussycat!

For all the cat lovers that can't be seperated from their cats when they travel: