Steve Keck

I logged in for this??????????????????

As Crazyjim said, WITHOUT the resin core (equals solid core). The resin can drip out over time. And once the solder is off the spool roll it to straighten it completely. I sandwich it between two pieces of paperboard (like the backing from a note pad) to prevent tool marks and then press down with a hard straight tool or piece of wood. Roll at a 45 degree angle to the solder.

Tommy, I really like how you did the upholstery and the door panels. Please share how you did them. Thanx Steve

Excuse me, Afta, but wouldn't the Big Brother of Aftashox be....... wait for it............ THE BIG ONE!

Very, very, NICE! Well done, Cesar!

I don't know Mr. Pate, never met the man. If I were Mr. Pate I would take exception to your accusation and innuendoes. I take exception to it.

Trolling for PM Flames, are ya? Keep it up.........

Yes, Simón, it's one and the same. Once was enough!

I LIKE IT! I like the stance. It just looks like it is all business. Great paint work on the graphics. What's the rectangular filter housing looking thing on the upper left frame rail in the engine compartment? And, what's the significance of the graphics on the tailgate?

Correct on both counts.

Johnny, all I've got to say is your family has THE most detailed family history I've ever heard of.

Congrats Mike!

I concede. Once was enough.

Spent too much time on the Mall, Danno?

No. But, I attended the University of Colorado in Boulder during the late '60's. Is that close enough?

Driving by the Penske Porsche dealership in Scottsdale, Arizona, I saw what surely must make Porsche purists roll over in their grave! I immediately thought TamiyaCon and GSL! Speculation among TamiyaCon participants was Mr. Tamiya does not like his styrene cut up; thus, no convertible replica as Tamiya does not produce a GT3 convertible. All flames were mask with Tamiya tape except the small purple flames. The fabric within the Tamiya tape prevented clean cuts with very small radii. Scale-Master cut the vinyl masks used to shoot the purple flames. All colors were intended to be Tamiya. I held to this standard until the pin stripes were added. Tamiya TS aerosols resist all decal solvents known to this man, so Testors enamels were used for the pin stripes. All the pin stripes were cut from painted decal film with two single edge razor blades. Yes all the flames have pin stripes. Clear coat is three-part PPG series 800 Thanks for looking! Steve

I've seen it in person. The paint is that good. You were just more intent on capturing your own reflection and got in the way of MJ's house!

Beautiful work, David. I especially like the machine work on the front lights. Are the brake lights painted or plastic? It was beautiful in person at the IPMS Nats. And, it stands up to digital photography that hides NOTHING! I am grateful, however, that the paint finish is good enough to reflect the image of the camera lenses and the sun but not of the photographer.

Great work, Cesar! I love the detail painting. Only one criticism, the controls are on the wrong side!LOL!

David, Please do a real time test and get back to me with your results. My calculations indicated your resuts are flawed.

Mat, all in all, very realistic. I especially like the worn off paint and primer. You might be a little more judicial with the placement of these spots. High "traffic" areas collect more wear like the outboard areas of the fenders. Yours look realistic. I'm suspicious of the one on the upper right rear corner of the roof. How would it occur? See my reasoning? The chrome would benefit from some Dullcote to knock the shininess down. The top view of the hood and fenders shows off the patina well. However, it also shows where the BMF on the hood trim could be trimmed closer. The rusted trim mounting holes in the passenger side door is a great idea. The holes do look large enough though that the mounting hardware would have fallen right through the holes. It appears the running boards were brush painted after the body was mounted. Cleaner masking or better planning would have made this area cleaner. I like the rust on the wheels. Very believeable. Steve

As an alternative to CO2, you might consider compressed air. It's totally quite and clean. When my Badger compressor started to go bad I decided to switch to a quieter setup. Air fills cost $5 and last for about three models - primer, color coats and clear as well as all interior and detail work. The air is totally dry and filtered for human consumption. I already owned the SCUBA first stage and low pressure hose with a quick connect fitting. The cost of a SCUBA tank was comparable to a new Badger compressor. I connect the SCUBA low pressure hose via a quick connect to a pressure regulator and second filter (because they came as a unit). Next in line after the regulator/filter is a quick connect fixture for the airbrush hose. For convenience all three airbrushes have a smaller version of the quick connectors. It's subject to the same hydrotest requirements every 5 years.

Beach Dust! We don't need no stinkin Beach Dust! We got Desert Dust. It's a sand box! For as far as the eye can see. We live in the middle of the Sanoran Desert! OK. Alright already. If you insist I will post some others and share more of my incredible work with the world.LOL! As long as the cheap fawning and gushing praise continues!

Bob, if it weren't true it would be funny. But, you did make me smile.

Mike, no my comments were not directed at you, your comments or your work or anyone else's who has posted to this topic before you. No disrespect intended. Sorry for the confusion. My comments were, however, directed at one member of the Forum that has made repeated claims of scratch building. Claims that have been challenged without response.