Steve Keck

I could use the "you can't teach an old dog new tricks". In this case its 'Old dog; old tricks'. Too bad. He's forgotten more than I ever knew.

Great resurrection, Mark. You told me what a piece of work the kit was. The wheels appear to have been turned. I checked the photos in your WIP documentary and the wheels don't look as crisp. Great job.

Textured foil similar to that found in cigarette packs was used to cover the hoses. Digital photography misses nothing! I see where I need to touch up some gaps in the foil.

My black springs are accurate and follow the detailed pictures I have that were taken in the garage area. No doubt you are confusing the museum display with the race version. So I stand by my level of accuracy, regardless.

Mark, I believe you truly are dyslexic, no insult intended, but you are twisting things around more than usual. Heavier springs were used during transport (if at all - see my prior reply to you) if more ground clearance was required depending upon how steep the on/off loading ramp was. Like you said "it's all over the forums". And its Dennis Ronald.

It took 12 minutes for you to post and you're not trolling my topic? R-i-g-h-t! And Mark, this car turned left as well as right so it would use the same springs on both sides. Or, are you lesdexic and meant to say front and rear? See those screws on the damper bodies? They simply tightened them to prevent travel during transport. No 1200# springs were needed.

The 1:1 seat appears to be covered in suede so I added baking soda to the Tamiya flat acrylic paint to give it more texture; same for the steering wheel. My camera likes to emphasize the blue part of the spectrum. I promise the seat is much grayer. The engraving on the monocoque frame is beautiful! Tamiya provided very fine, diagonal engraved lines on the outside representing carbon fiber. It was finished as described in the previous update. The sides contain the evidence of my experimentation to achieve this look which will be hidden by the radiator ducting. Here are the best examples I have of the engraved lines emphasized with Alclad titanium gold:

Thanks Ed. I'm honored with your very first post here. Welcome! What? Did you run out of airplane models to build? Finishing it for this year's CFAC is not realistic considering my progress on the build. Thanks, Mr. Taylor, for pointing out my error on the exhaust gaskets. This one got by me. I will have to intensify my research before starting a build. If it's simply different paint I would be open to changing it. And, Danno, baby, who's calling who sophmoric? And, this, here and now after your recent comments in another topic about taking the high road. Not likely anymore for you! And, finally, Mr. Scale-Master, you had early pictures of my engine with the "now inaccurate" gaskets. You let me post these humiliating pictures. You set me up for failure!

Testors Non-buffing Metalizer Exhaust was used to replicate ceramic rotors. I couldn’t envision screws on the kit where they were absent on the 1:1 vehicle. On the bottom of the pan I used the kit screws to secure the body mounting brackets then filled the holes with CA glue and sanded the heads flat. The center, rear screw will be a locator pin for the engine. I reamed out the hole in the engine just enough for a push fit. Testors Dullcote was tinted with Tamiya Smoke to weather the underside. Mark provided paint masks for the carbon fiber portions. Photos showed the reflective foil on the 1:1 pan was much more wrinkled than the kit supplied foil so I opted to use an old and wrinkled sheet of BMF. Lady Luck intervened and one single piece of BMF came off the sheet where I was expecting tearing and irregular pieces. Not wanting to waste such a large piece of BMF I used it so the foil is much smoother and uniform than I wanted. Tamiya provided very fine, engraved lines on the topside representing carbon fiber. The instructions call for semi-gloss black paint. Photo references show indistinct, mottled gold appearing carbon fiber that is only visible in bright light. I dusted Alclad titanium gold at a very shallow angle so only one side of the engraved lines received the Alclad. I followed this with Testors Glosscote.

None of the reference photos showed the Calsonic stencils on the radiators so I omitted them. I used Alclad chrome on the piping. Formula 560 was used to secure the intercooler halves and was then shaped into weld lines while still tacky. It was then dry brushed to match the surrounding area. We found out the suspension arms were not bare carbon fiber so they received Testors Black Chrome. The injector stacks got a coat of semi-gloss to knock down the chrome.

The front wing end plates were also covered with ScaleMotorSports carbon fiber decals; just not the Hi-Def. They were then cleared with Testors Glosscote tinted with Tamiya Smoke. I’m really not as far behind Mark in my build as the difference in posting dates would indicate. I just got around to painting the rails on the end plates.

Guilty as charged! Thanx

You may find something here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41633

The paint job was a replication of a 1:1 paint job I saw at the dealership in Scottsdale, AZ. More photos here: http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v403/skeck/Porsche%20GT3/ The original was a convertible. I built it OB for the TamiyaCon That Never Happened.

I know Mr. Taylor and his eyesight acuity. I just hope I'm not on the known accomplices list.

As long as I'm allowed to log in here I thought I'd post a long over due update. I started polishing the clear coat. Then I had to start another model.

Jeesh! I hope no one gets shot. This is just a long distance build by friends. You want drama? Watch the made for TV "reality" shows.

This project was started in late 2009 as a friendly, long distance build between Mark Jones, AKA, Scale-Master, and myself. After winning the Tamiya 1/12th scale McLaren MP4-6 for Best of Show at the 2009 Cruise for a Cure model car contest I cleared the workbench and tried to keep pace with Mark who had started earlier. The guidelines were simple â€" build the kit within the rules of Out-of-the-Box. Mark elected to follow the kit painting instructions while I deviated from the instructions where photo references supported the variations. I went for the used but not abused look. Thank you to Jeff Wallen of Tucson, an avid F-1 modeler, who provided volumes of reference materials. Mark's build is documented here: http://www.modelcars...=1 He was very helpful in sharing tips and tricks from what he had learned as he preceded me through the build. I reciprocated where I could. Mark used the kit supplied decals that substitute "McLaren" for "Marlboro". I chose to find the Marlboro decals on the aftermarket from Tabu. Mark supplied the Goodyear decals for the front wing - twice in my case. I will only high light significant variations from Mark's narrative in his write-up. Adhesive backed foil duct tape was added to the exhaust headers to represent welded joints then dry-brushed with various metallic paints and sealed with Dullcote.

OK. I figured it out. The bulkhead sits vertically just below the dash. The Google images I found show an oval leg opening into the foot well. The instructions call for gussets at the corners forming the oval opening. In the replica cars the dash and bulkhead are one piece. Parts A, B & C are all you should get. Well, maybe the instructions should have been included? As to logging on here it's not the fuel I feed my 'puter nor it's age nor my ISP nor my browser. When I enter my user name and password I get the "Login was successful" screen and when the screen refreshes back to the main page 9 out of 10 times it shows I'm not logged in. I frequent some very sophisticated sites with a lot more security features than MCM has and I log into those sites regularly without any problems.

I can scan the instructions and email it to you.

It's just too painful to try and log onto the MCM board to post a WIP progression. It just took me six attempts to reply to you. Maybe it will show up in the Under Glass section. I am building a curbside replica of a friend's 1:1 kit car. The Flintstone kit comes with a pan/chassis/seats all-in-one cluster(insert your own expletive here). It has the tubular frame from the seats forward molded into the pan. The floor board under the frame is an abomination. I cut it out. I will add .020 sheet styrene in its place. I will use the pan as the chassis with its imprecisely positioned locater holes for tube axles. The kit comes with a rear bulkhead but does not include a forward one. The instructions show how to construct one for the race version but not where to locate it. When I used the link on the Flintstone website to ask about the location this was his reply: "have no idea. ihad some one build mine dont know." jim. Don't expect any help from Jimmy. Note that the website only states to use a Fujimi kit to complete. Not all kits will work as the rear grills are different shapes. The instructions call out Fujimi kit #27. I can't speak to that. I have kit #29 and it will work. If you are familiar with resin and are comfortable scratch building then go ahead with this kit. Hope this helps Steve

If you can interpret the instructions, them please PM me and I will explain my dilema. Steve

I like it! Even though it makes my eyes move in and out of focus. Great save! Steve

Jimmy, the work in those pictures is terrific! However, I am still trying to balance for my self how such a well done model can be submitted by someone troubled with focusing a point and shoot camera and relying so much on spell check as you have. Maybe those in-progress pictures would put this issue to rest. Steve.

I tape several plastic pill bottles together to hold Q-Tips, tooth picks and eye droppers, etc. I use a wide base can to hold CA clue and accelerator along with the small applicators. In my case its a Meguairs clay bar can. A Planters peanut can is about the same size. I tape my various decal solvent bottles together. The underlying theme to create a wide base.