Steve Keck

My ISP is COX

I don't know what a "lot" is so I don't know how to answer that. AVG Just my wife (who says she supports my modeling)

One other thing. Everything was OK until about 3 weeks ago then poof! It's been IE 8.0 before and after.

Every time I attempt to log into this forum I get a “The log in was successful†screen and I’m admitted to this esteemed place. However, lately that’s about as far as I get. Within minutes, yes, minutes, I get a notice to log-in. After minutes the system has timed me out, so to speak, and logged me out. I used to be able to stay logged-in for days. Now I can be in the middle of drafting a response to a question and POOF! I’m logged off once again. Furthermore, the system does not remember where I’ve been. I can click on the “Go to first unread post†icon and it takes me where it wishes. I guess I should be grateful I get to stay within that topic. I can read all the posts within that topic, all the way to the last one, only to return later and get the opportunity to do it all over again. I have been in contact with three of the four forum administrators. Two have no idea how to solve my problem and the third has not been successful in his efforts. I have dumped all my cookies. My password has been changed and all the log-in keys have been reset. It does not matter whether I select “remember meâ€, or not, at the log-in screen. I am using Internet Explorer 8.0 on a Dell computer running Windows XP. Is there some setting within Internet Options in the Tools menu that will help?

I find the Dykem to be too dark in color and too thick. The blue is almost a purple to me. Sharpie markers work best for me. David, the next time you are rummaging through my closet, help yourself to the Dykem.

I'm OK with logging in. If the system would only KEEP me logged in. Its timing out somehow and I have to log in every so often. Any body else experiencing this? I've already cleared all the cookies. My password has been reset, and all my log in keys have been reset. I must really be dedicated to this place because this situation is becoming a pain in the ass.

BJ, Check out Mark Taylor's excellent tutorial on body prep here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=30842 As far as primer goes I use Tamiya's under paints formulated for styrene and Plasti-kote sandable primer under automotive type paints. Steve

Thank you, Clay, for your selfless service. We who stay behind thank YOU. Steve

May I be the first to say "Stunning!"? Steve OK, I was slow in hitting the add reply button but that doesn't change my opinion!

Ok, Chas, I can find the referenced colors on the '48 sheet instead of the '49 sheet. All I'm saying is that the paint on the model is no where close to the paint chips. If you are happy and your uncle is happy then we're all happy.

Gary, I've encountered bubbles in a urethane product I no longer use. The bubbles were the result of not allowing the clear to gas out between coats. The bubbles form from the solvents and were trapped between coats. My experience waiting longer(within reason) than the flash times indicated on the product sheet does not affect the results. From the looks of your results in doesn't appear you are doing anything else wrong. David is the 2021 expert so I will yield the floor to him. Steve

Chas, I'm just relying on what you said in your opening post: "and the factory PPG 1949 color as this combo was not released till late 48" And the link I provided does open the 1949 page. I don't know what you are looking at. If you are relying upon the paint store employee for replica information I'd find a more reputable source.

Bring it on, Big Boy! Maybe you can shorten my learning curve. Steve

Here's a link to the F.S. cross references on line: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_fs.htm Remember all monitors display colors differently so your resilts may vary. |s| A closet airplane builder.

I find it hard to expound at length on mosts subject. In short, I'm a man of few words. And, when someone says it best I don't try to say it another way. So, what you said, Scrappy! But, the glowing accolades? I thought the primaries were over. Is David running for office?LOL! Steve

Chas, nice work on the conversion! I didn't realize metallic paints existed in '49. I did a quick search and found the paint codes here: http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=1949-pontiac-pg01.jpg Which includes the mystical gray. So, I'm confused. Steve

Nothing modern. McLaren MP4-6, '66 Chevelle wagon & '55 Mercedes 300SL Gullwing. Then a Daytona Cobra & '66 Chevelle replica.

David is correct in all he wrote, however, I would add to wear the respirator even while mixing and clean-up. And, run the fan all the time as well. Steve

The discussion about urethane clear coats and the proper procedure prompted me to post a long-completed build. It belongs here and not in the Tips & Techniques section. This is Tamiya's 350Z with all Tamiya paint and clear coat. I did it in a week just to see if I could. The kit is almost a curbside so lots of time was available for painting. Once the clear had cured for 3 days I started with 4000 polishing clothes and worked through the series. Then I used the blue cap Tamiya polishing compound followed by a mixture of the Final Detail wax and 3M's hand glaze. Thanks for looking! Steve

Honestly? Don't you have it backwards?

So, it's do as you say not as you do?

I have a use for that!

I paid $7 locally for the TS-76 and put the can of TS-83 back on the shelf that was marked at $17 IIRC (MSRP is $16.40). On top of the $17 the instructions say to apply over TS-14 so add another $7 to the bottom line. What's so special about this stuff?

Tamiya's Metallic Silver and Metallic Gold, TS-83 or TS-84, respectively, are almost 2 & 1/2 times more expensive than their regular line of paints. I use the TS line where ever I can if the color is right. But 250%? Can anyone that's used these enlighten us? Thanks Steve

I'm glad I waited. It was worth the wait!