Steve Keck

Harry, there is a third way and I use it when I only wish to address one point. I hope this is not confusing: I use the MS editing features we are ingrained to use (Thank Bill Gates if you want). I hi-lite and delete those points I do not want to address. I deleted part of your original quote as an example. Deleting photos works the same as deleting text. I'm glad I got today's good deed out of the way early.

Beautiful model, Curtis. That's one to be proud of! I appologize for the theatrics in your topic. Some people find drama where ever they look. Sorry it happened here.

I'd be proud to have that on my shelf - blue or purple!

I found one in a box of Cracker Jacks.

Great job! Great detail! Beautiful paint! Isn't it really 1/32nd at only 5 inches long? You're not giving yourself enough credit doing in 32nd what most of us can't do in 24th, or.... larger. And, is that an inflate-a-spare on the back?

Rommel, You are confusing the issue by connecting model building with seeking attention. Builders build and attention seekers act out of the norm to stand out from the general populace. Everyone should be able to share their work - as you do here. That is the purpose of this forum. However, I know of several exquisite model builders who choose to build instead of post their work. That’s their choice, just as you choose to post in detail your creations. They are certainly at one end of the spectrum. Somewhere in the middle are the vast majority of the 7,841 members of this forum (which is only a fraction of the entire modeling community). You, certainly, are at the opposite end of the spectrum. You admit: “Yes I post and i bump my threads back into play via thank yous and updates but it's never to garner attention. I do what i do for the pure love of modeling nothing more nothing less.” You bump your threads back into play for the pure love of modeling? I question your intentions. When I have something worthwhile to contribute I post it. If readers ask questions regarding that post I take the time to answer them individually. Otherwise, I let it die a quiet death. Certainly you can’t (or shouldn’t) let a work-in-process topic die, unless by choice. I have, however, observed you bump your topic on door hinges back to the top as a “public service” – "just in case anyone missed it". I question your intentions.

In my opinion some builders build solely for the attention they can garner from entering contests or the attention they can draw upon themselves by posting (and bumping their topic back into play at every opportunity, be it a "thank you" or "update"). Me. I enjoy the problem solving aspect.

My '79 ... ...has electric solenoids to activate the latch and a spring to pop the door open about two inches. I have a hidden external switch to activate the driver's door as well. I use external locks for the fiberglass hood so no cable is necessary. The electrical solenoids have been working without problems for 12 years. Now I'm having mechanical issues with the original equipment latch not holding the door closed.

Mesa residents are proud of their community, now.

Very nice, Eric. Very nice. I've got to ask, was it 21 consecutive hours? Or, do you have only 21 hours invested in the build? I like to think I'm a clean builder but, I know what my work would look like after far short of those 21 hours.

Looks more than decent to me. Ni-ce (two sylables=twice as nice)!

You're correct, Shox. Here's their link: www.micromark.com/

Ben, I posted a how-to in the Tips section here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45991

Creating Wiring Harnesses This is how I do mine: Chuck a length of 20 thousandths piano wire into a MicroMart drill chuck and that into a variable speed drill. The piano wire is too small for a standard electric drill chuck thus the need for the MicroMart drill chuck.. Insert a length of thin brass or copper craft wire into the space between the chucks and s-l-o-w-l-y let the drill do the winding. This will be the “wrapped†portion of the harness. When the piano wire starts to flex excessively start a new section. To create the visible wires use thinner black craft wire. Sandwich it into the wound wire at intervals. I use BLACKEN IT from MicroMart to turn brass black. It’s advantage is it requires no further priming or painting. Here’s an example of the harness in place:

I would like to expand on Scale-Master's comments while he is away doing master-like things. Hopefully I won't step on his toes. They're big toes; thus his shoes are hard to fill. Hopefully we can have a little humor here? Certainly dust and lint should not be present but neither should any other foreign matter such as grease or oils. Wash and dry the model to remove finger prints that contain oil. One of my dedicated brushes is a small, stiff chisel pointed brush for working the decal into crevices and panel lines. Wet Q-tips can be used to roll the water and air bubbles out from under the decal minimizing the risk of tearing. Dry Q-tips can be used to wick away water. So can the edge of a paper towel. I use a strip of paper towel laid over the wet decal and anchored with a finger awayfrom it to remove excess water before final positioning. I've also used the wet backing paper to squeegee excess water. Heat from a low volume hair drier may be enough to persuade the decal to nestle down without the need for solvent/setting solutions.

Great work! Yours is one of the finest models I have ever seen here. The fit and finish are beautiful! I looked long and hard to find anything out of place, a misaligned paint line - anything! I give up looking! I'll just enjoy it.

Nice work, John! I second the Alclad comment above. One suggestion: Maybe some where in you bag of nuts and bolts you have some appropriate for the hood and trunk hinges? Short of that try some monofilament line that mushrooms when near heat; flatten out the 'room while still warm to approximate a rivet head.

Maybe you can pull some ideas from these. The engine bay and interior bucket from the street version were grafted into the curbside race version. The body modifications are very evident in the last picture. As far as the seat color question I would play off the outside colors and repeat them inside - not exact but similar, muted colors.

These drills are used in CNC manufactured printed circuit boards. They are used a pre-set number of times before being resharpened or discarded. I bought a 55 piece assortment years ago for $5. Search out and make friends with the tool room manager at the printed circuit board company around the corner. He might just tell you when the next discard date is.

And the congregation said, "AMEN!"

Jumping out of a plane and smiling about it! PRICELESS! HAPPY BIRTHDAY KEELER!

Great job! Nice finish! I have to build two of those. My son is working on a 1:1. My first will be as it was resurected last month. The second one will be as he finishes it. I hope my second model looks as good as yours.

Happy birthday, Mark! I never realized you were so old. You are in remarkibly good health for your age. You do wear it well. Remember, life is like fine wine. First you age and then you go sour

Lyle, please consider the following knowing I have to run the gaunlet to log onto the board. That being said I thought it was worth the effort to do so to compliment your work. GREAT JOB! I am not a student of the 50's customs but all the parts work together. The chrome is great! Did you have it redone? The foil work is some of the best I've seen. Isn't the dash finished like the roof? If so, then it's a nice way to tie the inside/outside together. My only concern is allowing my girl to drag her behind across the rope piping on the upholstry. Her behind would fray it in a heartbeat!

So what? My golf cart will reach terminal velocity. Newton says so. And Harold, could that chill up your spine be the crank out of balance?