comp1839

Chris, thank you. i still have a little while before i can get back to table . i hope it's not too long , i do enjoy building these cars!!! Tim, flattery will get you every where my friend...hehe. YOU are the man. Bruce, we're gonna get there....it just may take a little time. just be gentle with the boot...o.k.? LOL. MERRY CHRISTMAS to everyone!!!

thank you guys!!!! much appreciated.

tim, i want my spare trans back...... NOW!....hehe, oohhhhhh, it's only 5/8" long. my goodness that's pretty!!!!!! ALWAYS amazed at your work. guys,...... i'm never too busy if you need something. sorry i've been a recluse lately but, the big girl is keeping me busy. soooo much fun. not enough time in a day.

time to PUMP UP THE VOLUME!!! looks fantastic Tim! when ever you're free, i'm here.

OH MYYYY.

tim, ...................amazing!

very cool dave. you must have a blast driving her around.

i'll bet you can't wipe the smile off your face, as you start to assemble this. last 3 shots are incredible!!!!

good looking ride, dave. care to give us some particulars?

thank you guys. i appreciate it. it was a blast building parts and putting this together and the past 350 miles have been the best miles i've ever spent in a car. i'll see if i can't find or make a video that gives you the right sound. tom, i like the "olds" valve covers too. they are for the DRCE heads. just not the newer version that is on the car. the bottom half had to be removed and hand fabricated because the valve angles had been rolled over to the extent, the exhaust valves literally hung out the bottom of the cover. it's kind of the fun thing about this engine, you just don't go buy stuff off the shelf. you have to fabricate alot of it. i think they add alot of "character " to the engine bay. thanks again for the great responses! if you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask.

i'm very happy to say, this is an article about my street rod. took 5 years for me to complete it, as far as it is, in the article. there are a few upgrades in the works including, painting it all one shade of satin black, an engine upgrade to 730 cubic inches and EFI. just go to one of the links provided. same article is on both sites. i hope you enjoy it. https://www.dragzine.com/features/pro-mod-to-pro-street-dave-shermans-wild-1937-chevy/ https://www.rodauthority.com/features/pro-mod-to-pro-street-dave-shermans-wild-1937-chevy/ you certainly may voice your opinion. just remember it is my car and i built for me to enjoy.

the plumbing looks gorgeous Tim!!! gonna be something really special when you're done.

hey mark, will you be posting some shots of your mustang as you go?

chris and john, now there's a match made in drag heaven! the cars look FANTASTIC together. great job fellas!!!!!!

tim, is the m&h racemaster logo on the tire a transfer, decal or painted? it is incredibly clean. quick change looks awesome!!!!!!!!!

tim, there seems to be alot of people on this board who want to believe they can talk the talk........but you, can walk the walk! AWESOME BUDDY!!!!!

so....... to show the extreme diversity in "outlaw 10.5" the rules i found here are the PSCA rules. these rules allow a full tube chassis instead of a "backhalf" car and the fire wall can be move to facilitate moving the engine placement. the PSCA rules: CHASSIS / SUSPENSION: Any chassis and suspension combination that passes NHRA safety standards is allowed. FIREWALL: Moving stock firewall rearward for engine installation permitted. Each car in competition must be equipped with a minimum of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum firewall, extending from side to side of the body and from the top of the engine compartments upper seal (hood, cowl, or deck) to the bottom of the floor and / or belly pan. like i said, IF you are going to build to that level of detail......do your homework. sanctioning bodies, geographic location, who sponsors the race, blah, blah, blah,... can all affect the rules and policies.

mark, i can't say it's not thin....it is but, apparently it's thick enough for the saftey required. in a one to one car, you always have the option to go thicker. the rules on this are only the minimums. i got a p.m. requesting firewal shots on an outlaw 10.5. it really depends where you live and who's rules you follow. the blue mustang i've already shown is probably a good example. here's the PDRA's rule: 17. Firewall must be within 2” of stock location. Engine must remain in front of firewall. Firewall cannot be modified for engine placement. Firewall will be measured from front spindles to any point from cowl to bottom of firewall and from outside of factory frame rail to outside of factory frame rail. Modifications (i.e. Sloping, slanting, etc) outside of the factory frame rails permitted. Any vehicle that is over the 2" tolerance but less than 4" ADD 25lbs. Any vehicle that measures more than 4" from factory will not be allowed to compete. cecil county's rule: 4. Front Frame to be original O.E.M. type. (Stock front frame rails mandatory) Direct Bolt in aftermarket parts permitted. Firewall must be in the stock location. Engine must remain in front of firewall. Firewall cannot be modified for engine placement i down loaded these from the internet. if they aren't accurate or up to date. i can't help that. as you can see. the PDRA say's one thing, cecll county another. if you are getting "that" involved in your build. you should look these rules up and make a choice as to what you wish to do.

nick, can you tell me EXACTLY what's illegal about this car?

no problem mark. the firewall in a pro mod has to be .024" steel or titanium. nothing else. the driver's side floor must be steel and welded in place. (note the differences in the pics i supplied) the rest of the floor/ interior can be .024" steel, .032" aluminum or approved carbon fiber. as you can see there is a lot of different combo's you can build but, no aluminum or carbon fiber in the firewall or driver's floor area. hope this was helpful. i found a shot of the same car that shows the back of the interior. on this car you already saw the steel firewall, welded steel drivers floor, dzus buttoned pass floor and belly pan. this shot shows you steel around the driveshaft area, carbon tubs, flat carbon sheeting betweeen the tubs and a carbon fiber seat with it's insert.

machinist mark, do you have what you need or is there some more shots you'd like? i'm trying to make sure i use the same car a reference as mixing and matching chassis designs will only be confusing.

mark and anyone else reading this. the print from chassis works is for a 94 -98 mustang. it's 101.3"wheelbase. 78-93 mustangs were 100.5". so if you print this out and either blow it up or reduce it to the correct size it should be a fairly close representation. the cage bars or other bars may need some massaging but it should get you in the ball park. the front and rear suspension mounting points should be particularly helpful. not many of the chassis companies put their prints out for you to view like this, so i'd take advantage of it. there are also helpful work sheets that can help you figure out rear end widths and other stuff. searching adds in magazines and then going to the manufacturers websites can be a big help. mark, don't worry if your build ends up being a pro street car. the '37 in my avatar is an ex-pro mod that in now my pro street car. hehe. they make wonderful street cars!!! a couple more pics. here is the all important driveshaft enclosure. the ball valves are for the nitrous.

sounds like you are off to great start. the mock up looks perfect...love the stance. here is a suggestion. on the frame you have started your main frame rails (the 2 in the center) should be one piece all the way to the front. it will make your model much stronger in the end. here are some chassis shots to get you thinking ahead. so you can plan your next moves. as an FYI. you should copy and save these pics as i won't keep them up here forever. keep up the good work.

these are more conventional 5.0, 4.9 or 4.84 chevy engines. charlie buck splits/ nitrous. roush /yates splits/ nitrous. scott shafiroff 2x4 / nitrous.