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I've built the Revell Nomad a couple of times back in the day when it was molded in cream colored off white. It was a pain in the posterior then too! When it's built right it makes a nice model. If I were to do it again the door, tailgate and hood gaps would get a bit of attention. That's one gripe with Revell's Tri-five kits, doors opened but the gaps were sometimes a bit hideous at times. The front end is a little on the wobbly side, try closing the holes in upper and lower A-arms with some superglue and redrilling or even pinning the spindles to tighten things up a bit.

Same here, but look what good wages were back then; somewhere around $2 - $3 an hour was big money. Most of the stuff that I buy off of eBay I wait until the last millisecond to bid I get better deals most of the time. Another good part of doing it that way is that I bid at an honest price, takes a lot more self control doing it that way. Then again I haven't paid stupid prices for anything either!

Sorta looks like its missing the headlight lenses and maybe a few other doo dads. Probably the reason Blair didn't put it in the "Under Glass" section. Beautiful Deuce Blair, looks like you "Cherry Picked" the best parts for your model. Did I mention I like it!

Suggest picking up a copy of the Rod & Custom "Little Pages" 2011 No. 1 the '27 Ford has the most common lowered front end method that I've seen on Model T Speedsters. It uses a 3/8 to 5/16" strap iron attachment to stretch the front perch ahead of the front crossmember, not certain why they did it this way other than stretching the wheelbase by an inch or two. Also do a web search on the "Multi Aldrich Model T" I believe he used this setup on his Dry Lakes T. I have seen a couple of Speedsters that use the traditional Hot Rod spring perch, they look a little odd almost not period correct. The only "technical" part of fabricating this type of frame extension would be the 90 degree turn in the strap iron then a 90 deg bend, the wishbones (radius rods) will need to be lengthened accordingly. Think of it this way, a Hot Rod spring perch requires welding, many Speedster builders wouldn't have had access to welding equipment back in the day, so the bolt on crossmember would be the most common way of lowering the front end. There were a few dropped front axels produced, they would have been out of the average builder's budget though.

Most fiber glass will be a pale orange-ish yellow with even a hint of white, it's the color of the cured resin, more dark than light. Not just a Corvette thing it's pretty common to all production fiberglass, to get it really correct one would also squirt some sort of matte clear coat over the color coat(s). The resin makes the backside have a slight sheen. The outside of the part/body is not the same as the backside, what you see there is the gel-coat which acts like a primer coat.

As Arte Johnson used to say, "Veddy Interresthting!!!" Ira I know you're seasoned enough to remember Laugh In, me too, until my folks decided it was warping my brother and my minds, then off it went! As always I like it a lot. Thanks for sharing more of your creative brain childs.

Just blew the picture up, those are canning jars look for them in housewares around the other canning stuff.

http://www.myfoxchicago.com/story/22578403/2013/06/13/nascar-jason-leffler-obit-bridgeportnew-jersey Just heard on fox sports that Jason Leffler was killed tonight at Bridgeport Speedway in a sprint car heat race. Too bad was hoping to see him back on the sprint cup again. 37 years old' way too young, sprint racing has claimed a whole lot of drivers over the years. Unfortunately will claim more, just the nature of open wheel dirt racing. Thoughts and prayers out to The Leffler Family, especially his five year old son.

If those are glass like they appear to be then they should work pretty well for longer term storage as long as the lid screws on tight enough to keep out air.

Skip, really cool site, brought back a memory or three of cars family, friends and I've owned.

That's what I have and love it! The spray booth I have is a Paasche , works great for model work as well as some of the sign work that I do. Another good booth to look at is the Pace Spray Booth. Both are sheet metal construction. Some of the guys on here have built their own, just make certain the fan motor is explosion proof with sealed brushes.

I have a set of the Halibrand Salt Flat wheels that I'm going to be using on a project, they are very crisply cast. Those will look great on your 'Vette"

Karl is correct on the '70's Pro Stocks, NHRA started the Pro Stock class in either '69 or '70 season.

Skip, again I like using jars with screw on lids for used X-Acto and s ingle edged razor blades. When full I toss it in the trash. Kind of "old school" I know, something learned in high school graphic arts then reinforced in sign shops long ago! I asked the (garbage)/recycling pickup guy about recycling the blades in the jar; he thought it would be safer on their end if they were trashed vs. recycled. Because there would be less chance of someone grabbing a blade at the sort facility. He was also very appreciative that I thought of their safety as well as recycling.

Yes on the ABC fire extinguisher, plus a flammable kick can for solvent, thinner, paint rags. You can also use a gallon sized paint can or glass jar anything that will seal off air intake. Working in Sign Shops before vinyl sigs were around; fire safety was one of the first things that got driven into an apprentice's thick noggin! A lot of what I learned there is very transferable to the model building corner of my hobby room. Another thing to think about is if there isn't a working smoke alarm in your hobby room and paint area is adding a surface mount smoke alarm onto the ceiling. Should actually have two extinguishers, one inside the hobby room and one outside, since my garage is just feet away from the hobby room that is the back up location.

Your bilge blower is the best non-commercially built spray booth idea that's come up on this forum, it's specifically designed to exhaust flammable vapors out of an enclosed area. As long as it pushes / pills enough air to do the job it's a great idea! Thanks

If Mr. Scott thinks he got hosed maybe he should look at what Revell did to Ed Roth. They took Roth's kits that he was getting (1 cent each) royalties on, moved them to non-domestic (U.S.) markets, changed their names and then cut Ed Roth out of the deal all together. That would be a pretty good definition of getting hosed in my book. Can Steve Scott come up with anything comparable to that? Don't get me wrong, I'd love to see the Uncertain Tee kitted by any maker who is willing to manufacture the kit to both the quality standards Monogram originally did; (plus maybe today's standards wouldn't be to bad either). In parts alone the Uncertain Tee is a great kit for anyone building traditional 60's hot rods, that nailhead is a beauty!

Pure subjective hype! The seller is hoping to wring a buck or two more out of someone who can't or is too lazy to build their own! By their definition of "Pro" nearly everyone who posts their built models here, must be a "Pro-Modeler" as the overall quality seen here is a world apart from evilBay.

I use both, the deciding factor is usually desired finish quality. I own six working (big name) airbrushes Iwata, Badger, Paasche and even a couple of the Harbor Freight DeLuxe models. I shoot all rattle can primer and clear coat. The Harbor Freight DeLuxes can take quite a bit of abuse, they are cheap enough that you can literally use them as a starter airbrush. I know several sign/Kustom Kulture professionals who use them every day, these are guys and gals who have an early every make of airbrush in their bag of tricks, yet are using a cheap Harbor Freight airbrush. Why? They work great, which makes them great to learn with. They aren't built as stout as some of the Name brands, they are stout enough to learn the tricks of the "trade". If you already have any sort of working air compressor go for, get one and see if you like it, if you don't someone will always trade you something for it. Keep them clean and they work great! For rattle can paint the difference for me besides all the can warming tricks mentioned by others is I shoot everything in my Paasche spray booth. Everything is allowed to flash off, then is final cured in the dehydrator which is a huge improvement in itself.

I replace the Purple Pond (Castrol Super Clean) about every six months, used to keep it longer topping off as needed. Once it begins taking noticeably longer to strip paint its time to toss, plus at that point there will be a significant build up of paint residue on the bottom of the container. I use (Glad) plastic containers 48 ounce size which will fit most smaller bodies whit some room to spare. If it won't fit in the container I use a gallon sized ziplock bag and pour it back in the plastic container when done. Anyone ever notice that the Castrol Super Clean gallon jugs sometimes develope leaks? I've had two of them leak, I store the jugs in a bucket and the Purple Pond in a plastic shoe box, sort of like a secondary containment!

The other night I was bored on evilBay and ended up searching Doll House hinges for a non-model project that I am doing. The thought struck me or rather a memory from the distant past, Autoworld used to carry miniature door hinges which looked a lot like the doll house hinges I was looking at. My question is does anyone have any experience using Doll House hinges on exposed hinge 40's and earlier model cars. I can see that they might take a little fiddling and bending to get the hinge set to the thickness of the door, after that looks like they would be pretty straight forward epoxy the brass to the plastic. Anyone try this type set up? If this works it could be adapted to VW Bugs and Bus variations as well.

This is really turning out nice!

Dremel, bought my first one at a garage sale for $3 tossed in a set of brushes and it lasted me another 10 years! Have both the stylus and corded Dremels. I like the corded model better as I use the flex shaft with it gives me better control. Going to have to ditto on the bi-focals and optivisor!

Nice model, well built, the color is perfect it practically screams 50's!

I think rather than going for amazing detail and accuracy with the Badman, if it were me coming back from a 15 year modeling hiatus I would use this one as a tune up to rebuilding skills. Have fun with this one then work up to accuracy if that's your thing.