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Get comfortable with the airbrush you already have before you rush out and get another one. Sure the results are going to come short of an Iwata Eclipse or any of the big buck airbrushes, you need to take baby steps before you start running. It is during the baby step stage that you learn how to set up the brush and what steps to take to correct the issues you encounter along the way. If the acrylic paint you are using has a specific reducer then try to use it if it is in your budget. Tamiya makes an excellent reducer X-20A, works well for finish work. You can use Windex or other glass cleaners or isopropyl alcohol for more practice orientated stuff. Personally, I don't think I would use it on something that I was going to show off other than weathered paint. In my opinion (like the old saying goes, everybody's got one). I make every effort to stay with the manufacturer's paint system. They've spent big bucks on research and developement why spend your own? That said I know people who regularly use "witches brew reducers" mixing isopropyl alcohol, Windex and even Future acrylic floor wax in varying amounts. The consistency of any thinned paint through an airbrush should be somewhere around that of milk, which has it's full strength color but isn't thinned to the point you can see through it.

1997 I think it was car parts off of eBay motors.

Built that one back when it first came out as "The Rod Father" which was a play on the movie that came out right around that time; "The God Father". Those two piece rear slicks and front tires were the worst! If we had only known about using vinyl glue instead of Tester's Red Tube glue on them back then. At some point nearly every Revell two piece tire I ever installed on my models split down the seam from glue failure. You did a great job on what would be by today's standards a finicky kit. Those wide rear tires are a perfect replacement for the originals, they're exactly what the Hot Rods were wearing when the Rod Father was released. Those decals are what makes this kit stand out from "Tweedy Pie". Recently picked up the latest reissue of "Tweedy Pie" brought back a whole flood of memories of building "The Rod Father" It was one of the last kits I built. Thanks for sharing your excellent build.

Wasn't the Revell Attempt I streamliner based on the Dragmaster chassis which is the backbone for your Mooneyes dragster? Have to wonder when Revell did the Attemt I if some modifications were done to the Dragmaster frame that were then passed on to the parts pack Dragmaster frame. Having never seen the original release of the Mooneyes dragster kit I'm only speculating. At one time the Mooneyes dragster was a part of a double kit wasn't it? (Fiat Topolino?) jb, as always I love your work, well thought out and executed. This one is no different, going to be a real beaut when you are finished. Now if those '57 - '60 Ford pickups weren't so stinking expensive! (I actually like that series F100 right up to the Unibodies then they lost me.)

jb, You always know how to make a silk purse out of the old sow's ear! Think I'm going to take a look inside the box of my old Forty, always sort of bypassed that nailhead. Maybe not for long.

Sorry if I didn't catch the part where it was either said or insinuated that the person was being up front with the I broke it information, which should be clearly communicated. I have heard more than one person say that they either broke or lost a part out of a Revell kit and Revell replaced it when they told them that said part was missing out of the unopened kit. That is the mentality that I was referring to in the first place. To me that is the kind of dishonest misrepresentation that could get the whole replacement part program stopped. I've had to go to Revell for replacement parts once, when the kit's clear parts were so warped it was curled. I sent a picture of the offending parts they had the entire clear sprue out within a week. They did request that I place the warped sprue back in the pre-paid return box so that they could try to figure out the "what happened". I was impressed with their customer service/support.

Correct me if I am wrong. Isn't Revell's part replacement service for their error, not the buyer's? To me that borders on really dishonest as it abuses Revell's replacement, in their own good faith effort to make the customer's purchase right.

Actually the smart thing to do with those that were stored inside would be a preservation "restoration". Where only those things required to make it start, run, steer and drive are repaired with NOS OEM parts. They are only original once, a full restoration makes it not original. The story of their survival adds value to their existence.

I could see that under the hood of a Prius or a Fiat 500, but a Willys(?) that part's kinda strange. The tongue and cheek should fit the subject closely to work to its fullest! At least they got a great Hemi for another project, hopefully ether didn't try to shoehorn it into a Prius or Fiat 500!!!

I keep my loose bits in a mini Altoid's tin, got a nice little hinged top that clicks shut. I keep the Harbor Freight bits in there, the good ones go in their index.

Bill, couldn't agree with you more on spoons Vs. body, not only will it help you with the finishing and polishing process what works and what doesn't. My Revell '57 Nomad has spent nearly as much time in the purple pond as it has in the paint booth. It was a garage sale find that came with the doors and tailgate glued tightly shut, whatever glue it was has stood up to the pond for some time!

Nice, GM had a great Class of '56.

Easily adjusted ride height, just slice offa little more off the top! This one has been worth the wait!!!

Fifteen years ago, picked up a unopened Monogram Big Deuce, (black edition) at a garage sale for $12.50. Couldn't bring myself to haggle on the price! I knew my uncle was looking for one. I was going to give it to him at that price, he wouldn't hear any thing of the sort and stuffed $50 in my hand. That was the last model he built too, both of thought we got screaming deals.

Picked up an opened AMT '62 Bel Air 409 off of evilbay it's missing both intake manifolds and nothing else. It came with photo etch wipers and full detail kit so the two intakes missing is a nuisance that I'll live with I guess. Question - who makes a resin intake manifold for the 409? Dual four barrels would be nice but, Webers would be so fine!

Wonder why they aren't using a pocket door? The Harold LeMay Family Collection in Tacoma, Wa has a Muntz Jet or Playboy that has pocketed doors that slide forward into the area behind the front wheel well. Now something like that would take some real talent and make for a cool door opening versus a van type hinge system. I agree with the comment that the term "homicide doors" isn't too good for the hobby much less anything in general, just a bit too gangsta for my taste!

Pat, the ripping at an uneven overlap is an old Gilder's trick used with gold leaf, can't see why it wouldn't transfer it's use to BMF. I burnish BMF with a Q-tip, cotton makeup applicator/remover pads and or just plain old cotton balls. Don't be afraid to really work the edges with a heavy hand, seems to get the foil down into the crevices. It is nearly impossible to burn through BMF like you can with leafing foils, BMF is thick compared to that stuff!

Medicine cups or glass beaker for larger mixes.

Not too far from what some of the "Metal Butchers" 'er "Customizers" of the late 50's, early 60's were trying. They saw the Edsel grill/surround for what it was, just didn't apply it brilliantly at times. Go back and look through some of the "Little" mostly East Coast Customs magazines we're featuring in show coverage and feature cars. Funny thing too, many feel that the unmolested front end of the Forty Ford Standard and DeLuxe were Ford's best executed fat fendered car, it's also seen some pretty bizarre things done to it as well! Hard to improve on an icon, tongue in cheek or not!

Nice, always liked the Rotar, you did a great job don't sell your efforts short.

I wonder if there is some formula differences with some of the CA glues that is causing this shrinkage? All I have ever used is the Zap A Gap CA glue both the thickened and thin with *tinted baking soda or thick CA and accelerator. No shrink. Could the formulas between brands be different enough that it works differently from brand to brand? There is definitely something going on, finding out what it is might be helped by seeing what is and isn't common to some having issues with the method and others not. Bill I believe you when you are referring to shrinkage you are experienced enough to recognize what the defect is and its underlying cause. What I was wondering was, is this what others describe as shrink when it could be overwork. FYI *tinted baking soda is baking soda with a couple of drops of food coloring to a tablespoon of baking soda, (sodium bicarbonate), the tint helps contrast with the styrene being filled.

Ok, when I see pictures posted on here of plug wires they look like most people are using larger diameter wire than the Detail Master wires I've used for years. So what diameter wire are you guys using? Are you going for scale diameter or what looks good? Both are ok because part of scale realism is fooling the eye to make you think what you are seeing is correct. To me the Detail Master plug wires look too skinny especially on performance engines, they're way too thin looking on a Hemi or any other racing engine. Is there another commercially available plug wire out there for race engines?

Cool, way finicky kit that's part of its charm though. Built both the Thames and Anglia once or twice, I'm amazed how well the tooling has held up on both kits. They got a whole generation of young builders interested in gassers in their true form. (Not like the faux gassers people are trying to pass off lately. A lot of the cars being passed off as a gasser would have been passed right over back in the day.)

Art I think you hit the nail on the head. While reading through your explanation of CA glue and accelerator it hit me that what is happening is not that the CA glue is shrinking but overworking with sandpaper is taking away more styrene, giving the appearance of shrinking. I know that when I first started using the gap filling CA glue I had issues with overworkingthe area being filled. Don't get me wrong, I use catylized spot putties all the time, both have their uses. I like the CA glues for both gluing and filling seams, I think that's what I first started using it for, probably around the time Testers reissued the Hawk Weird Ohs. The seams were horrible on those things!

Bill, I've used CA glue and tinted baking soda for years doing figure and monster models. I also use some pretty hot lacquer primers right over it and have never experienced any shrinkage, either I'm doing something right or its just a fluke. I've never used microbaloons with anything other than epoxy. Never occurred to me to try balloons with CA, sounds like I'm glad I haven't. From my experience I would say that CA glue and baking soda is about the same as CA glue and accelerator for filler. The majority of complaints I have heard are that the CA glue once dry is somewhat harder than the underlying styrene. So shrinkage is a new one. Edited for spelling error, iPad corrects spelling but not usage, go figure.