MrObsessive

A compelling reason why I've stayed single all these years among other things. At this late date, I wouldn't have the time or patience for bad attitudes in a marriage. It's nice to come home with no noise, no annoying------"does this make me look fat questions" or "why can't you do this are that?" BS. No arguing over money------saw too much of that as a kid. IMO if you have to ask the question about your rear end----------then yes you probably are too fat.

Nothing really picture worthy as of yet.........I did get the chassis painted with red oxide primer and, some black overspray on the floor. Engine's all done and, at the moment I'm forming brake and fuel lines------also trying to cobble together an emergency brake cable system to put in also. Maybe (if there's time and I'm up to it), I can post pics over the weekend. I have to travel out of town tomorrow, and won't really be doing much more with it till probably Sunday.

Pat I did something similar to what Paul did. If you want to click here, it'll take you to my '67 Mustang WIP thread. I like to use clear stencil sheet for windows however as to me they're optically clearer than styrene, and can take bends and such better without fogging. It does take some practice, but yeah------this is the way to go if you want to do a nice restoration job on an old builtup that needs replacement glass. Hope this helps!

Only a blonde could trip over a cordless phone. Only a blonde would put lipstick on her forehead to make up her mind!

This is one of the reasons I try to park as far away from everyone else when I'm in a shopping center. It never seems to fail that if I park "among the crowd", some dumb minivan or SUV always ends up parked right smack next to me. Frustrating as heck!

Gonna be another nice one Steve! Interesting how Ford made their '59's "one year deals". The '58 and the new again for '60 are totally different cars! Had to be expensive for Ford (and GM) to do that back in those days. I'm sure Ford redoing their line for 1960 was an attempt to keep up with Chrysler and GM which beat them to the punch. Too bad they don't do that today------I get tired of seeing the same 'ol boring body styles for years at a time. BTW, I too like the roofline of the Fairlane 500 a bit better than the Galaxie. While it's nice, the boxy roofline seems to clash with the rest of the car's rounded lines. That's just me talkin' though...........

I can't speak for James, but the difficulty I see in the rear taillight panel is that there's too much of a slant to where the tailights are not vertical. Now in the 1:1, there is a very slight tilt in the panel, but not as severe as the kit depicts. At least this is what I'm seeing.......I'm only paying attention to this because today I'm downloading a whole ton of pics of '67 SS hardtops and convertibles as they'll come in handy down the road. Now I know some may be rolling their eyes and sighing at all of this, but with kits costing as much as they do these days, errors like this shouldn't be missed. When I get around to building mine, yeah............this is something that will definitely need fixing as looking more at the kit body and the box art car, it's sticking out like a sore thumb.

Yes, I'd leave them alone...........you're still learning. There will be other models that this paint scenario will come up. BTW, I want to tell you that for a beginner, your paint job came out very well! I wish mine had come out that nice some 35+ years ago when I started building!

Personally, I don't clear over decals, particularly if the actual car's stripes were NOT painted but applied as in tape stripes or something. In the case of the Shelby those stripes were painted on, so if I were building it, I'd probably clear over them or I'd simply paint the stripes on to be consistent. Use caution when applying clear over decals.........some don't like certain paints and if I were you, I'd test them in a tiny area either on the decal sheet, or in an inconspicuous area somewhere on the body. Hope this helps!

1979 T-bird! Actually I like the '77-8 T-Bird's taillights better, but I'll take the '79. And yes, the '65-'66 Biscayne that's out there is close but no cigar. As I see it, the roof shape isn't right to me either.

Absolutely Beautiful Steven! Great idea on using the flexible plastic for your rear window! I did the same thing to my '57 Corvette's uptop when I wanted a rear window------and a regular clear plastic one was too "clear". Your reworking of Revell's '59 Chevy uptop for the Mercury is flawless. Yeah, '59 Mercury styling is hard to forget...........imagine being three years old and being nearly run over by one! That's a true story that happened to me many years ago.

That's true............he'd have to add some plastic stock to the trailing edge to make it so, then there's the rear backlite and tulip panel to deal with. Not necessarily and easy conversion any way you slice it (no pun intended)! Roofline changes can be tricky depending on what you're working with.

One of the things I like to do when doing a reshaping of rooflines is to make a template (provided one side is correct), and then have that to mirror for the other side. This will ensure that both sides are symmetrical--------something that the big model manufacturers don't always get right! Looking at the pic of your progress, I'd say that both the leading and trailing edge of your C pillar need to be a bit more upright (just a few degrees) when comparing it to the 1:1 photo . As Plowboy said, it will take some carving, sanding, filing, etc--------and some cursing till you get it the way you'd like. Hope this helps!

Rich, that's going to be gorgeous as usual! You sure do luck out on scoring those old X-EL promos.......everytime I see one on the 'Bay that I want, I get outbid. Were you going to use AMT's '57 Chrysler chassis underneath? They were all pretty much the same during those years.

Yup! Hee-Hee! I saw this kit offered a couple times before on eBay, and I figured if it shows up again, I'm going to snag it! I have the '72 Olds kit (the one with the uptop), but I don't want to break that one up just for parts. I'll search around for probably a whole kit as I can use parts from that one for other things. They can be had for a reasonable price if you search around............. BTW Ron, I believe Jeff is casting these on a fairly regular basis as this is the third or fourth time I've seen it show up. One just sold again yesterday for slightly less than what I paid for mine, so they'll be out there if you want one. Dennis, thanks for the tip! I can modify the trans to make it more suitable for the build when I get around to it. BTW, the kit comes complete with a very nicely cast chassis (probably derived from the MPC '70's Caprices), and wouldn't need a donor chassis for that. I'd have to scratch up an exhaust among other things as the kit doesn't include that.

Yeah Bob, the link I posted is my go-to place when I want to see something I'm interested in that The Modelhaus offers. Don once told me that it would be nigh impossible to post a pic of everything he offers.........and they have a LOT of stuff! You can always call them in person as they're happy to answer any question you have. As I said before, I've never had even the slightest problem with anything I've bought from them. Edit: Ok, I've run across another link to Modelhaus items. It's a Fotki page, so if you click here, it'll take ya right to it.

Aaaaah..........some might think I'm crazy, but I just LOVE this car! True there weren't very many made (588?), but you certainly wouldn't see yourself coming and going!

OK, I just got in the mail Time Machine's resin '71 Olds Delta 88 that I snagged off eBay. I must say that this is a very nice casting with only some very minor cleanup needed! My question is though.........what are the list of kits that would have a proper engine for this?? IIRC, these were available with 455's in 1971. Anyone know what would be a reasonable facsimile to do this one stock? Thanks in advance fellas!

Mike here is the link for all of the Olds kits that Modelhaus offers. He doesn't list a '60 4 door hardtop (I want one!), but if you click on the description for the '59, you'll see all that it offers.

Check here if you want to see more of Modelhaus's items. You can't go wrong with Don and Carol as they're one of the best in the biz. I've ordered from them as well in the past, and I can vouch for their excellent service!

Welcome Pierre! I was in Caguas/Gurabo visiting back in '06 and man I'd love to get back down there sometime! Post away at any models you're working on, and I'm kind of a closet tuner guy! I have a mind to build one of those old Toyota Corolla kits with a Mazda rotary in it! I vividly remember seeing one of those in P.R., and someday would like to build a model of one.

Luc, I sure hope not! Painting that would be a REAL pain! AMT when they did their '62 Bel Air bubbletop didn't seem to have any troubles in this regard.........I'm hoping Moebius doesn't foist that on us!

If Revell took the initiative (and kudos for doing so!) to fix the incorrect body contours on the '70 Torino, there's no reason why Round 2 can't do the same to the Plymouth. After all these years however, I won't hold my breath in the hope that they do so.

Hear, hear on the '58 Plymouth! Actually, one of my pet peeves with the kit manufacturers besides woefully inaccurate body lines, is the way they make kit glass. Why must it be so terribly distorted?? This is one of the reasons after many years, I haven't touched the '57 Chrysler 300C. The rear backlite in that kit is absolutely TERRIBLE and, until I decide to vacuform a decent copy of it, it won't be on my to-do list for building. Same goes for the glass in my '59 Impala kit. I will tackle the glass in that one after I finish the Mustang as I now have a vac-form machine. As far as tires go, to me if it looks "right" and in scale, I say go with it. Sometimes numbers in 1:1 don't always work out in our model world. One has to go with what looks in scale and what appears right for a particular car.

Skip, years ago that's the very kind of acetate that I used on my '64 GTO WIP. That was around 2003-04 and, unfortunately the windows have indeed warped, but they haven't yellowed much. The warpage though is what kills me in that if I want to try and redo this (it was already painted), I'll have to take the whole thing apart, pop out the windows, then start over. Jeff, if you check here, this is the site where I get those bolts and rivets. They are a little pricey, but to me well worth it especially when I need something sturdy to pin parts and, have some detail to go with it. I buy pretty much the smallest size they have for things 1/24-25. I also have a bunch of Grandt Line HO bolts.........but I seldom use those as they can be a bit flimsy for what I need as they are plastic.