MrObsessive

Hmmm.......my eyes tell me that the Ferris Bueller Ferrari is actually supposed to represent a LWB spyder, not a SWB one. Lotsa real estate behind the trailing edge of the doors................. The short wheelbase ones look a little tidier IMO-------I believe that's the car that the Italeri kit represents as I have one. The nose is a bit different on the LWB ones also as the SWB's are a bit "stouter".

That Ferrari Dino sounds cool to me! I suspect though it'll be curbside, but no matter------still a gorgeous car!

Aahhhh! Now that's more like it! When you go to wet sand just be careful around the edges and the corners..............working slowly will make a nice job nicer. In the future to speed up drying of your paint jobs, you might want to look into a food dehydrator with a temp control. They run about 40 bucks at the Wally World................when your able to get your finances together. This is especially great for also drying those stubborn water based acrylics so they're rock hard.

Okay, one more response then I'm done! I wanna go work on my Cougar II since I have the rest of the week off.................. To echo what Bob said, YES! Learning to mask and paint details such as window trim will go a long way towards making an average model spectacular. Now you've seen how big my hands were holding that 1/43 scale Ferrari..........If I'm able to do what's in the following pics with these huge hands, most anyone can! Here's an '06 Mustang I built a couple years ago that needed the side windows and window glass itself masked off. I used BMF for the glass area as a mask to make the black borders as on the 1:1, likewise the side window trim was also masked off and hand painted black.................... Likewise a new Magnum with the same type of trim........... The key is practice, practice, and then some more practice!

Aaaahhh...........That's why I love my airbrush! I usually decant the Plastikote into a paint jar, then airbrush. Plastikote's paint does tend to be a bit "foamy" when it's sprayed in the jar. I like to let any paint I decant to sit at least ½ hour to gas out before I'll start to airbrush. I almost forgot about Krylon! Krylon makes excellent white and gray primer (sandable). In fact, one of the best gloss whites to use is probably Krylon as it will STAY white forever!

Duplicolor makes a good white primer, but I prefer Plastikote white but it's a bit harder to find these days. Tamiya also makes an excellent white primer in a spray can, but the cost of that drives me nuts as the automotive brands give you more for your dollar. Good topcoats should not "flatten" over primer as shown by my examples above. Once your paint is fully cured, you'll want to rub out and polish the paint just like you would a 1:1. My Ferrari's were not clearcoated, just rubbed out with polishing cloths and waxed. General rule of thumb is this.............Solid colors don't need clearcoat as there's enough hardener in the paint to bring out the gloss. Metallic colors should be clearcoated because you don't want to "disturb" the metallic flakes which can lead to a mottled, swirly appearance by rubbing out and waxing. That pic you have of that Ferrari was definitely primered in white.

As a lover of red Ferrari's I can definitely tell you that pink and white primer are the way to go for red topcoats! Here's a couple examples............. That's a '56 250 GT with a white primer as a base...........yes it's 1/43 scale! This is a 250 GTO primered with pink primer as Chris mentioned above. If you want those reds (especially in a Ferrari) to really pop, you gotta go with what works.

Okay, you detailing fellas out there--------how safe is steam cleaning an engine these days? What with all the electronics in engine bays these days. I've owned my car for three years now and of course when I got it you could eat off the engine. Now it's crusted over with dust (no oil leaks though) and I'd like to get it back to the squeaky clean newness it had when I bought it. Good luck with your endeavor Nick!

No, you don't want to mix it in water.............spray it directly on the body just like you would your oven. No need to soak the body in water, just the body completely covered with the Easy Off and let it sit. You'll definitely want to hold your breath though as those fumes are POWERFUL! When handling it to clean it up, it's a good idea to wear rubber gloves if you have 'em. An old toothbrush would come in handy for getting in between the crevices and creases. It should take it down to bare plastic-------you can always reapply it to get it squeaky clean if needed.

Ooooohhh!! One of my favorite '50's racers!! A 1957 Aston Martin DBR-1! In fact I think I know more about this one than I'll admit------so I'm keeping mum for the moment.

Bro, that is lookin' FABULOUS! The BMF on that looks top notch as that's not an easy car to do! Hee Hee.............I can only imagine!

Try heating up the hood in hot (not boiling) water, and bend slightly until it's flat, and then quickly run cold water over it to "lock" it in place. This might take a several tries, but it should work. I would use lukewarm or cold water to wash the hood later before painting, the hood now has a "memory" and will want to go back to the original shape. I also would not use liquid (or other solvent) glue to put on that underhood bracing------the solvents in the glue could also make the hood go back to its bent shape. 5 min. epoxy would work well for that. Hope this helps!

In another thread you asked about Easy Off...............I mentioned that it's PERFECTLY SAFE FOR STYRENE PLASTIC! Use the yellow can regular stuff, NOT the "fume free" junk.

Ditto what was said................Gloss black is an absolute must!! Also I've found that the gloss black needs to be completely dry to minimize rubbing off when handling. I use a dehydrator to speed things up in that department. I've also used Aclad's base gloss black and found it to be great for what's wanted. Here's a couple pics of an '05 'Vette I built with the wheels done in Alclad Chrome to get rid of the too shiny chrome wheels in the kit. The effect is highly polished aluminum-------that's the look I was after. Another key with Alclad is it must be MISTED on in LIGHT COATS! Too heavy of any coat will give you the results you got.

Beautiful color combo Randy! Nice execution too so far--------where did you get the surfboards?

The Tamiya tape comes in 18MM and 6MM sizes, which work out to roughly 3/4" and 1/4" respectively. I can't speak for the 3M Blue Masking Tape as I've not used it------I'm wary of just any 'ol type of masking tape for paint work as it can do much more damage than good. General masking tape comes in different widths, but I wouldn't use it if I were you....... You still may need to use your exacto blade to trim and get around curves and such, but as I said.........the results in the end are much desired.

Nice and clean so far...............One suggestion though, unless you've got a mighty steady hand, I strongly recommend using BMF or Tamiya tape to mask off the window trim. Hand painting it can no doubt leave a "wavy line" look, which can take away from the clean appearance of it. It can be a pain for sure, but trust me----the extra effort will be worth it.

Sigh................some guys have all the luck! I've also got a '69 Bonneville that needs restoring badly, but it's no where as nice as the one you have Bob. I got it off eBay a few years back, but the guy decided to put that yucky custom rear end on it. Thanks goodness the stock rear bumper is among the parts, but it will need new tail lights though. You'll have fun with that one Bob for sure! BTW, Ron! Is there anyway to crop your signature pic URL? It shifts the entire board over (at least on my end) and makes it difficult to read what you posted without moving the cursor side to side. I resized and cropped it below if you want use it.............

You can try using a silver sharpie to bring out those lines and lettering, or you could Bare Metal Foil those before you paint, and then lightly sand away the paint after it's cured fully revealing the details. Testor's paint pens are too blunt for what you want, also the paint can run big time if you're not careful.

That's totally up to you as it's your model. To get an idea of the shade I would test a small sample on a junk body or some scrap plastic. In fact, it's always a good idea to test out paint you're not sure about to avoid surprises later. In answer to your interior paint question, I wouldn't spray the dullcoat over the paint to dull it out. I've done this in the past and it always came out with a chalky appearance to it. You can try to repaint the interior with light coats with the dullcoat mixed in the paint----(airbrush required though). Other than that, the only way to dull down that color is to go over it lightly with some 600 grit sandpaper, and use flocking for the carpeting as that should be a flat color. Tamiya makes an excellent water based acrylic buff color that would be correct for those Ferrari seats. Once again they're best put on with an airbrush, but I've seen guys hand paint them with good results.

Check out this pinned post here on posting pics with Photobucket.

Y'know the more I look at this the more I like it!! Did you scratchbuild the surfboards? I keep picturing the '68 with the same kind of treatment!

Congrats Kevin! If you can stick with Ford do so! Of the Big Three, they're in the best financial shape right now.

I had heard the word grok years ago, but didn't remember who said it or where I first saw it in print. Foreigners may be scratching their heads saying.........."What the............?" "Grokable" is a word I came up with as some kits or definitely "grok worthy"-------they're just too nice to take out of the box and "devirginize" them. Hey that's a new word for ya!

Nice Paint Bro! Now I gotta admit, I do like this combo better than the "Mary Kaye Pink". That gloss is flawless!