MrObsessive

Monograms old 1941 Lincoln Continental I think was a flathead V-12. I'm sure someone's got a junker or two out there that can spare the engine.

Ditto that! I was a bit disappointed when they first announced the "New" Beetle hoping it would once again be the rear engined. This model is really cool! Love the wheels and stance too! Now if someone could only do this in 1:1..............There was word that VW had some sort of Beetleish rear engine car in the future. Maybe something to compete with the Mini------but with the car companies literally fighting for survival (even the European and Asian ones ) I doubt we'll see such a car.

LOVE the AMX Jeff! I wish my 1:1 '69 had that intake setup for the engine............I know I wouldn't have sold it then!

Yeah, that's seems to be the biggest downfall (no pun intended ) for laptops next to hard disc crashes. That's why a free fall sensor is handy...............I don't think the 320 GB's come with one though as I wanted a 320 GB with mine originally. The Dell tech told me the 250 GB's were the largest that come with the sensor, so that's what I went with. Cruz, you'll be playin' around with it for hours.............have fun!

Chris also under "My Controls" go to board settings, and make sure the box is marked "yes" where you're able to view and make posts with pics (Under board display settings).

Chris, I always use the "picture" button right above the text box you're typing in to post pics. It puts the thing in for you............but your pics have to be hosted somewhere on the 'net to do that. It would go something like this...............[ img ] your pic url here [ img]......... Now there are no spaces in the url's or image tags------you also want to make sure when you use the image button, get rid of the "http" before pasting your url. The board has image hosting on it's own, but it's limited at best as you can only post so many pics (of a particular size) before you use your allotted MB space. Hope this helps!

Well I gotta admit----------I am NOT a fan of Testor's enamels anytime, but that is one super sharp bubbletop you got there!! The engine detail is excellent also! Especially with black paint, that came out extra nice! Testor's paints CAN be worked with if one has a good dehydrator-------other than that......you better have a LOT of patience.

BEAUTIFUL car Drago! Yes, the first runs of the Lindberg Impala's were incorrect (too round) in respect to the windshield/cowl/dash shape as well as the hood. In the later runs the tooling was changed and those errors fixed. It was also said the body was a bit shallow-------but I don't see it in the examples that have been posted. I have the hardtop..............one can't have enough '61 models especially when the car is the same age as you. The only thing that bugs me about the building the hardtop is the same thing that plagues the ERTL '57 Chrysler 300 kit--------the glass is waaaaay too thick making the distortion of the glass unacceptable to me.

Yes------but some shrinking is in order for the floorpan. Don't forget to get rid of those frame rails though as I mentioned in the post above.

Cruz, I just got a new Dell Studio laptop recently (typing this post with it) and I couldn't be happier! I got it through the job as where I work has a liaison with Dell as we can get them a bit cheaper. I'm running 3GB of RAM with a 250 GB hard disc..............I strongly suggest the 3GB's if you can afford it. Over time as you add music (and especially programs) the computer can begin to slow down with programs hanging up on you. I still have my other 'puter (Dell Dimensions desktop) and recently had to add 2 extra GB's to the RAM as 1 GB was just not enough------especially with power hungry Vista. Now it runs like a champ------better than new! Another thing, I advise getting something in your hard drive called a "free fall sensor" (ask the sales rep). What this does is if the laptop senses a sudden drop, the heads in the hard disc will retract saving your data. When laptops get dropped, they may look fine, but when you go to boot up------the hard disc has crashed! Not a good thing. Hope all this helps Bro........and go get that laptop!

Some of us have airbrushed it (carefully!) or you can get one of those sponge brushes from the hardware or grocery store............and put it on that way. If put on too heavy, it will run however so keep a paper towel or something nearby to catch the runs if need be. If you mess up...........ammonia will take it right off. The great thing about Future is it won't show any brush strokes, dries reasonably quick, and is quite durable. Heck, if it can stand up to heel marks on floors........it's gotta be tough!

Come to think of it, if you were to cut off the frame rails from that '58 Plymouth------use just the front and rear "subframe"................you come almost perfect for that '60 Desoto. Mopar did nothing more than integrate the front and rear subframe from the '57-'59's to make that new frame for '60.

Yup, the Mopars (save Imperial until '67) from 1960 on were unibody. There's never been a decent chassis for those 'cept for maybe the mid '60's MPC Dodges. Maybe the Lindberg '63/'64 Dodge 330 for starters? That's about as close as I can think of without breaking the bank for one of those MPC kits.

Whoops! Just now noticed this thread again............ No, I had no trouble with the paint over the wax..............I use Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax which has no silicone. That can be a major hazard to paint health!

You read my mind Fletch! I was gonna point that out also as that's been a big downer for me for a long time. Some kits (especially resin) have bad fitting glass to begin with. This is where the builder needs to take time to test fit everything before painting to make sure there are no disasters waiting in the wings. It's one of the reasons I do my painting last to make sure everything will fit into place without any drama. For the beginners out there......please don't take my statements the wrong way. I'm focusing on folks who also have come to me with the "Why didn't my model win" comments-------only to be a bit miffed when I (politely) tell them what was not quite right. It's part of the reason I don't particularly enjoy judging-------the hurt feelings are inevitable in some cases. I'd much rather be a spectator these days!

Yeah, I responded to him in depth (with red font to distinguish), so hopefully he saw the response. It took quite a while to answer all that he asked---------and at this time of day, I just don't have the time to respond to that again before going to work.

Great points all Rob! I want to expand on your paint tips a bit............. I found that when displaying a model, particularly a coupe, the first thing that catches my eyes are the roof, hood, and trunk. If those areas aren't gleaming like a mirror, I (and other judges) will usually pass on it and go to the next model. The sides of the model aren't as critical, but still should be rubbed out and polished nicely. Also, for those of you doing candy paint jobs, there's nothing more of a turnoff when I'm judging, than for there to be paint "dots" in the finish. Probably the airbrush spattered the paint along the way-------but the builder just polished over it instead of stripping it and doing it over. .........................And yes, a perfectly painted curbside model will beat out a super detailed one. HA! You haven't been to the GSL have you Rob?! Documentation for factory/replica stock is a must if you want your model to have a fighting chance of winning. Pics, factory brochures, even shop manuals I found out come in mighty handy. Now the GSL is the Upper Eschelon of contests in the country, so your lesser contests won't be as picky-----but then with some in the IPMS........................

Like Harry, I'm mostly a builder------but when a nice diecast catches my eye, sometimes I can't resist! Here's a 1/24 Shelby GT-350 from Danbury Mint via GMP. VERY nice casting and details, but there are a couple nits I have with it. The door shut lines particularly on the driver's side could stand to be a bit tighter, and also the fuel lines underneath I don't think are quite placed right for this era Mustang. But nevertheless, a very sharp piece that's sitting nice and pretty in my display case. Yeah I could've built this one-----but this will suffice for now! Those wheels BTW, are the best representation of the '67-'68 ten spokes out there I've seen! GMP sells these separately (last I knew) and they're definitely worth the money!

Lacquers are used by a lot of guys simply because of their quick drying time. Frankly, I outright hate Testor's enamels for two reasons..............their VERY slow drying time (some colors never dry), and their terrible lack of pigment in the paint to cover reasonably without seeing through it. The drawback to lacquer though is you MUST use a decent primer coat underneath, and to be on the safe side, some kind of barrier on the plastic. Lacquer has some pretty "hot" solvents in it and will etch into the plastic if care isn't taken to barrier it in some way. Some guys have used an airbrush to apply lacquer in very fine mist coats without a barrier or even a primer coat for that matter. This CAN be done, but you'd best be proficient in airbrush use before trying it. If you have a food dehydrator, Testor's paints can be forced dried in about 8 hours to where it'll be rock hard to rub out an polish. Set your dehydrator to about 105 degrees to get the best results. Randy's suggestion of a polishing kit is a good one------however like everything else, it takes some practice to get the best results.

If that's your first foiling job-------all I have to say is WOW! That looks great! Even around the wheelwells looks nice and clean as that's a tough area to foil! Keep up the great work...........the paint looks sharp as well!

That's up to you man...............I personally am not a fan of the hobby spray paints out there, Namely Tamiya's lacquers (which is a synthetic actually) or Testor's. They don't stand up to the rigors of rubbing out and polishing I like to do.............but you'll have to go with whatever works for you.

The watch pins came out great Dave! The striker plate is a good idea as it should never wear out-------what's neat is sometimes you'll hear a little "click" as you open and close the door.

Did you purchase the yellow can Easy Off, or that stupid "Fume Free" junk? The fume free stuff doesn't work at all.............the yellow can Easy Off is what's always worked for me. Now if the Duplicolor won't budge, the paint probably did etch into the plastic. You can primer over it---------------it can't hurt. I would sand down as much of the previous paint to even things out though.

The Future doesn't react to it (for the most part) possibly because of their disparate makeup. Future is a type of acrylic.........which in of itself doesn't react to certain paints. If you check out that site, you'll see where the military builders use it under all sorts of things. I haven't tried it in between primers........it shouldn't be a problem. The main rule of thumb whenever trying out any new process you're unsure about is always------Test, Test, and Test again! If you check here you'll see some pics of a Revell '05 Mustang I did using the Future. I had heard some horror stories about the new plastics coming from Revell starting about '04 or so, and figured I better barrier this one as I didn't want any surprises.