MrObsessive

There's a couple things you could try.............you could heat the frame under hot water to bend it back to shape. It sounds like you've already built it up so be very careful! Also, if you've got a food dehydrator, turn the temp up to 120° or so-----let the frame sit for about 15 min and then bend to shape. I would hold it in place until it totally cools down to minimize the plastic "memory". You can try this until all four wheels sit square. I've heard of others taking a hair blow dryer and heating the plastic.............be careful though as those hair dryers get hot mighty fast! I personally wouldn't recommend that though since you've already built it up. Even though this kit is a newer tool...........I always recommend looking over major parts for warpage before starting--------they don't always come out of the factory perfect. Hope this helps!

Lonewolf's got it right! If you want to rub out any paint don't use hobby enamels as they'll wear away in no time! Lacquers or acrylic enamels are the best. Personally, I've been using Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax for at least 20 years and I get an excellent shine from it. The Impala in my sig, was rubbed out with it along with 3600-12000 grit polishing cloths beforehand. Do yourself a favor and get to your local auto supply store and get a chamois cloth. I've found it's the best thing in the world for polishing out paint on model bodies as it won't leave any scratches like flannel or a T-shirt can.

Kyle, an excellent outlet for getting good pics if you can't get near a real one is eBay Motors. I've gotten tons of pics off of them when I'm looking for a particular car I may have in mind to model in the future. I would also recommend not trying to detail everything all at once! Maybe detail the engine a little on one build, work on detailing the interior the next, and down the road maybe do some detailing on the chassis. This all takes time as you don't want to do too much and get burnt out. Don't be discouraged if your results aren't the greatest the first time around. We all started from somewhere, and even us "old" guys are always learning something new.

I've been wondering that for years! A nice well done convertible would be great too.............'68 Shelby GT500KR Convertible anyone?

Yes!! But even funnier is when one time it kicked in and it scared my two cats straight up into the air and they immediately started fighting practically in mid air! Now whenever they see me reach for the compressor, they make a QUICK exit!

Welcome Kyle! I don't know how long you've been building, but the first thing is NEVER glue windows in with any kind of solvent! You're better off using a 5 min epoxy, or some of the white glues such as Formula 360-----which is pretty strong stuff when dry. As far as getting the glue off.............you could sand the glass starting with a 400 grit and working your way up all the way to a 12,000 grit (polishing cloths)------and then polish the heck out of the glass with wax. I can tell you that's a LOT of work-----I think you're better off getting another windshield perhaps from someone here on the board if they have an extra. Hope this helps!

Nice and clean build Cody! And the stance is just right! For some reason I like the fixed roof style of this Gen Z06 better than the regular glass hatch. Seems to have a tougher look or something............. Now that I think of it, I should try and find a kit of this one sometime!

Zack you're still fairly new at this--------but I would strongly recommend not painting the body until all your other work is done first. Engine, interior, chassis, even test fitting the glass you'll want to test fit over and over again, so there's no surprises at the end of the build. Sometimes the bodies are slightly warped so catching this early will save many a headache. If there's a gap in test fitting early on, you can add strips of plastic on the sides of the chassis and fill it in. The suggestion George made is a good one...............just be careful you don't ruin the paint when putting on the glue. Hope this helps!

YES! That tip alone saves much grief! The '58 Impala in my sig I remember took several days working an hour or two at a time to get the BMF done. '50's cars especially are no rush job!

If the trim you're doing has faint edges (chrome trim on tailfins for instance) I strongly suggest lightly scribing these out before doing any painting. Unless you've got a real steady hand, I wouldn't try to freehand BMF lest you have a mishap! Another tip is to make sure your paint job underneath is squeaky clean and smooth! Nothing ruins an otherwise nice build than to see BMF which is wrinkly/crinkly around the window trim/vent windows. BMF will NOT hide bad paint underneath.........it only magnifies it! Yes, it's more work to rub out the paint on the trim------but the end results can't be beat.

I haven't seen the issue, but I gotta agree that other type builds can be interesting in their own right. While I'll probably never build a tractor model, I would think a lot can be learned from weathering for instance--------as I've never seen a clean tractor unless it was on the dealer floor! My thing is mostly replica/factory stock............but I'll stop in a train shop in a hot minute as I found a lot of what those guys use to detail trains translates into model cars.

Welcome Austin! I'd say you got a good deal on that kit..............I built one years ago and it builds up pretty easily with no major fit issues. There is one caveat of that model though.................the car that Revell modeled is actually of the prototype ZR-1 and not of the production car. The ZR-1 was introduced for the 1990 model year------Chevrolet changed the dashboard for all '90 'Vettes. Revell kitted this car while the ZR-1 was still in the prototype stage so the kit has the '89 dash. It's no big deal if you just want a nice shelf model.............but to others who might want to find and build a rep stock ZR-1----------now you know! BTW, AMT also did a ZR-1, and theirs had the correct dash. It's not as nice as the Monogram one IMO.

If it were me I'd unload AOL altogether!! I had a LOT of internal software troubles when I first got a computer years ago dealing with them. I had to do like you did Dave............take the computer to the shop to have them fix it. It happened AGAIN three months later when the hard disc froze up! I was computer savvy enough at that point to fix it myself and at the same time, totally DUMP AOL-----which to me always stood for "Almost On Line". The next battle was getting them to stop charging my account AFTER I dumped their service! When I threatened to sue them for theft...........all of a sudden it stopped.

Some interesting projects there! If I were building the '53 Chevy, I'd probably build it box stock also...............but that's my thing! It would look good with a set of skirts and wide whites.............maybe a two tone green perhaps? As far as your automotive paint on the '32-----from my view it looks like the paint has crazed the plastic. Did you use a primer or barrier before you painted the color coat? Revell's plastic of late is softer than it was years ago, so great care has to be taken to barrier the plastic against the hotter (and not so hot) automotive paints out there. If the plastic is crazed (paint eaten into the plastic), there's no other solution IMO than to strip it and start over again. I guess one could rub out the crazing but I'm afraid your metallic paint would come out with a swirly, mottled appearance. The best way to treat metallics is to clear coat them after the color coats are dry, then to rub out the clear coat. One other thing I wanted to mention................did you spray the automotive paint directly out of the can, or did you decant it and use an airbrush? I'm asking because automotive paint (some brands) are VERY hot straight out of the can due to the solvents. Airbrushing on the other hand atomizes the paint a bit better giving it more of a chance to "gas out" before damage can be done to the plastic. Hope this helps!

The paint looks beautiful Brian! Revell's decals for that kit are VERY brittle! When I did my Daytona I had to get another set from Revell as the first set had totally crumbled. I remember brushing on some Microscale Liquid Decal Film which "toughened up" the decals and made them more durable for applying without tearing or crumbling. Keep up the good work!

The '64 car I've read (metallic burgundy) was the runner while the red car was the mock up show car. I'm leaning more towards the burgundy one, and since this was a show car, I may just paint the engine blue for more visual interest. Thanks for the pics Mr. Biggs, I had seen those and thought I copied them but I have them now. I sure wish there were interior pics of the car.............that's one of the areas where I'll have to just "wing it" as they say. Thanks for the replies fellas!

I'm thoroughly impressed! That's something I've not tried yet--------I couldn't resist turning up the sound of the sirens. It had my cats running!

Nice work going so far! IIRC, the movie car also had a bit of a rake, so yours is not incorrect at all.

Okay you Ford guys out there! What color was the small block (260 V8) Ford painted for 1963-64? I'm about to start on the engine in my Cougar II and the instructions say paint it blue...............but I've seen the 1:1's painted black or blue. Did Ford use whatever color was available in the factory that day, or is one color more correct than the other? Thanks in advance!

Now that is a sharp GTO!! You did better than I as mine is still collecting dust sitting forlorn on the shelf. I like the offset stripe..............if that and the redline tires don't say "1960's", I don't know what does! I also like that you got rid of the B pillars and made a hardtop------IMO that roofline always looked better that way.

You could always cheat and buy very nice resin redline tires from Norm Veber of Replicas and Miniatures of Maryland.

That's one of the nicest Grand National's I've ever seen!! Super clean paint, interior and engine details make this one a super standout! Back when this car was new, I happen to see one running along in my direction------I had my '69 AMX at the time and happen to catch up to the guy at the next light. I dismissed the car as another one of GM's poseur's (they were good at that for too many years) and figured I'll just leave this guy at the light. Boy was I wrong!! This car was running wheel to wheel with my AMX and I had a Hipo 390 with a 4spd! I don't know if he would have ever left me totally as we had run out of road, but I looked at those differently from that time on for sure! Oh, and the GNX was simply mind blowing! Too bad GM didn't let Buick keep this type of car in their lineup------at least put the engine in something as worthy.

Dawn's Power Dissolver works well also for getting rid of the mold release.

That's a loaded question as it's quite broad...............and there can be 1001 answers. I use anything from .020 to .050 thickness. It all depends on what I'm working on at the moment. For bodywork, I don't like using something too thin as it can warp with time-------maybe a .040 thickness for certain things. It's also a good idea to pick up plastic rods and strips in various sizes. Once again there is no one correct answer for size as it will depend on what you're building.

Try here for a resin '67 Barracuda Convertible.