MrObsessive

Nice body work so far...............but man are those A pillars delicate!! I might have temporarily braced the roof or something until I got the glass in as I'm paranoid about something that thin breaking. I hear you about the doors..........it can be a lot of trial and error to make sure everything works the way it should. Keep us posted...........everything's coming together fine!

Ahh!! Another one right! I picked real because very few if any modelers get the vent window detail that detailed. I noticed the swivel "stem" for the vent window and also the rubber on the leading edge. One thing about this 350 though......It has the front bumper/fascia of a 350R, but the vent windows are not quite like the racers. Was this one 350Rized perhaps?? Also the side glass looks too much like-----well, glass. I thought the racers had plexiglass side windows. I built the Monogram one back about '95-'96 and I remember all the reference photos I had showed the vent windows a lot bigger-------maybe due to the plexiglass side windows?

Since I was off all this week, I might as well get this little one done before it's back to work Sunday night! Here's some of the other parts that the BBR kit gives you------thank goodness the Borrani's were already put together, it makes my life easier not having to assemble 'em. In the above pic, one of the spinners was among the missing! ..............Thank goodness I was able to find it later. Here's the steering wheel with a PE overlay, along with the dash and kit supplied decal........... In my zeal to get this done, I forgot to take pics of the interior------it was basically just two white metal seats and a shift lever I scratchbuilt. The seats were painted flat dark blue while the interior is a basic black. Here's a sneak peek now that she's all built up------- Whoops! It looks like I have to touch up the lower wheel well lip with some paint! Just give a click here to take a look.

Here she is all painted up and pretty............this is the first time I've built a 1/43rd in about 5 years when the last one I built was a 1965 Simca Abarth by Provence Moulage. For me, building one of these can clear out the cobwebs, as well as make you focus/zero in on something much smaller than normal. I had to take some design liberties with the model.........the taillights for some reason were not included (or missing) so I used a pair of tiny MV lenses painted Tamiya Clear Red and epoxied in. The 1:1 car's lights were more of an oval shape, but to me these look better perfectly round. Also the door window frames were I believe body color, but I decided to leave the PE pieces unpainted for a little more glitz. The windshield wipers I also think are not parked the right way according to photos, but I'm not sure all of these were built the same as far as how the wipers operated. The chassis is nothing more than a vestigial exhaust system with no other detail. I did make the quad exhaust tips out of aluminum tubing and epoxy-pinned them to the chassis plate Enjoy the pics! Thanks for looking!

Back in the early '80's, Bill Mitchell was interviewed in one of the car magazines about the styling of the then new Seville. He had said that the Rolls was his inspiration for the design. I think he pulled it off beautifully as they were seen everywhere during the '80's-'90's. Cadillac must have done well enough with the car for the fact they kept the same shape for the Seville for six model years. How they ended up with that super dull looking '86 model (as well as the Eldorado) is anybody's guess, but Bill Mitchell was long gone by that point. In fact, I think the 1980 Seville was one of the last cars he designed before he retired. Now about those Cadillac engines from back then............. :ph34r:

Jody, is this what you're looking for? I'm not up on street rods, but in his albums it described it as a S.C.O.T. blower.

Jody, Dave Toups has a Fotki Page that pictures a lot of Norm's stuff. Just click here to take a look. HTH!

Here's the set I use..............I bought these back in 2000 or so. They cost about $20.00 for the set back then. Here's the guage I use...............I picked this up at our local train shop. Makes life much easier when I don't have to guess what drill bit to use! Hope this helps!

If you can afford it, it's best to get the whole range. I bought mine already organized in a case which has a slide out section for whatever number I need. It would also be good to pick up some sort of wire guage with the drill bit #'s on it. You put your wire through the corresponding hole that slides through easily without being sloppy-------and it'll tell you what drill bit is best for what you need. I can't give you an exact number size because that depends on whatever you're working on, but I'd say somewhere in the #73-#77 range you'd most likely need.

Nice build so far Michael!! I love this particular year of Ford especially their hardtops...........so low and sleek-----much better than what GM was doing for '60. Are those hubcaps Modelhaus items? I have this kit and only see the dog dishes, unless the new release has 'em. Oh, and congrats on the job return!

Another Ambroid Pro Weld fan here! I've been using it for years after I was disappointed in Tenex as I thought it evaporated too quickly, and also was losing its potency after awhile. Ambroid was taken off the market for some reason a little while back, but it seems to be available again as my LHS keeps getting it in stock now. I also have the Touch 'N' Flow applicator and I highly recommend its use! I have the Plastruct Bondene also, but I've noticed that it clogs up the tip of the applicator for some reason to the point where I don't use it much. Only for large jobs where a brush may be needed to apply it.

Echoing the sentiments of others, what I like best about model building is actually "owning" the car of my dreams albeit in a small scale. Be it 1/43 up to 1/8 scale. A lot of the cars I liked as a teen in the '70's I simply couldn't afford, mainly the cheap used muscle cars of the day-------much less so now as they've exploded in price. This way I get to hold a classic in my hand, don't have to worry about high insurance, no high gas prices, and no worries about it getting wrecked on the street. Although getting dropped on the floor is just as hazardous!

Hey! I LIKE that!!-------Nice resto!! I too wish this one was out as a regular plastic kit! I remember when these were new back in 1980, and while Bill Mitchell created a Love/Hate design for this era Seville, I absolutely love 'em! You don't see many anymore, and the ones with the diesels died years ago. I wouldn't mind having a 1:1 in my driveway, as you certainly wouldn't see yourself coming and going when on the road. As far as the TKM version is concerned-------unless you're really into masochism, I'd stay away from that one big time!

I get what you're saying Ken! I've seen "waves" in finished models which tells me the builder didn't take the time (or didn't know) to block sand the body. Particularly when the model has the ribbing molded on the underside for the headlining do I notice this the most. Door lines should especially be block sanded because of the troughs that are left behind due to the molding process. Metallics for the most part, should be clear coated so you don't get that mottled, swirly appearance from rubbing it out directly. Solid colors can be just plain rubbed out and waxed as usually there's enough hardener in the paint to negate clear coating. My '58 Chevy seen in my signature was simply rubbed out and waxed--------no clear coat was used.

Yup! MSDS = Material Safety Data Sheets On my job we have them on everything we use..............lest we get dunned by OSHA or some other agency for non-compliance.

In my particular hobby shop, they don't have them out on display (too easy to steal?) I have to ask the owner if he has the number I'm looking for, and he'll pull one out from behind the counter for the one I need. Maybe your hobby shop does the same? BTW, thanks for the compliment!

Nice work so far! As far as your tiny drill bits, a well stocked hobby shop should carry them. If not, you could check out MicroMark.com as they carry tons of stuff for the hobby. I have a whole set that runs from #61-#80..................it's good to keep extras of the super tiny ones as they will invariably break without warning!

Hmmm-----------I vote real, but will reserve comment as to why when it's over.

I gotta hand it you Bill------you took what I always thought was a mediocre kit at best, and turned it into a showpiece!! Everything about it is totally outstanding!

Alright!! Now I HAVE to do power windows!! Excellent work Peter!! At this stage of my building, I don't think I have the patience to do that sort of work now! The dark tinted window is a clever idea------and the remote control yet! I don't know what the range is, but you could astonish folks from across the way as they're looking at your model and all of a sudden the sunroof starts to open!

Nice!! I love that conversion! Great job on the opening doors too!

Before Harry gives it away............I voted model. Something about the door/trunk shut lines don't seem real to me.

No, not this time around Ron. I'm heading out of town on another trip so I wouldn't be able to make it. If you can take some pics of it, send it to my email-----I'd love to see it!

Yeah, I've seen the reissue recently...........I meant it would be nice to have both at the same time. I guess one could kitbash the roof from the '62 Catalina (would need some tweaking shape wise) on to the recent '62 Impala convertible to make a Impala hardtop.