MrObsessive

Matt, check out this thread here...........Very interesting and convincing way to do realistic wires! HTH!

Absolutely Gorgeous!! Yes, Ford (and the other Big Two) knew how to style 'em back then! I'd really, really like to see a return to more graceful lines on cars instead of the upright breadboxes that seem to persist. GM is getting there with some of their latest stuff, but the others need to follow suit including Ford!

Mike that is so super slick and clean! I can remember seeing these as a kid in '68........but really didn't know what they were let alone an unmarked police car. Likewise your '63 Ford custom is real sharp too! I'd love to see them at the NNL Saturday, but I can't make it this year. Maybe you can come to our next CPMCC meeting with Cruz and you can bring 'em then!

I also want to add..........I coulda swore I saw a very nice turned aluminum and PE set offered for this kit a while back! The turned aluminum consisted of Weber trumpets among other things. I just can't remember who made it though!

Hey, I've got that issue Mike! It was in SAE issue #100 from December '95. Excellent review and an excellent build! One of the first things I noticed on the box art car was the ride height.........unfortunately they used the same car for the magazine ads, which I thought took away from this otherwise great kit. I've yet to build mine after all these years...........I even have the roadster trans kit from Harold Bradford that I won at NNL East years ago. I should plan to build this one sometime soon as it's been a looooong time since I've done any type of mid year Corvette.

Thanks for the replies guys..............No, I don't think it's a good idea to run a long extension cord across the floor. That's all I need for someone to come in the living room and trip on the cord! Verizon just dropped me a line and they tell me the service is now acitve, so in the next couple days or so (when I get time), I'll be hooked up to a new ISP. Thanks again!

Okay........due to outrageous heating oil bills this winter, and ever higher prices to come, I've got to streamline some bills in my house. One of the things that has to go is Comcast! They're not helping by raising their prices so I'm gonna have to give them the boot. I just got a DSL package from Verizon-------problem is the phone jack is on the other side of the room, and I don't feel like undoing everything to move the desk (heavy wood), computer, printer, CD's etc. Is there a remote device that can send a signal to the computer via a receiver and USB port so I don't have to strain/break my back moving things again? How much for one, or does Verizon offer it? I'd call them but it's near my bedtime and I won't have time to call them this evening when I get out of bed to get ready for work. Thanks for any info folks!

:lol: Why thanks Mark!!

UUUUHHH................................Yes!! This '61 Caddy............... And this little 1/43 scale gem here............a '65 Simca Abarth...... For me to get something done in a couple months is about as rare as snow on the Mexican Border though................Once in a blue moon!

Sigh.......... I guess as an "old" guy, my work will speak itself................ Young man you can click here to see how an "old man" builds.

Wow! First I'd like to say thanks to those I've inspired! One of my heroes me for getting into the super detailed stuff goes to non other than Larry Booth, who used to go to our MAMA meetings before he moved to Texas. When I joined MAMA in 1994, Larry had just finished his absolutely fantastic '57 T-Bird..................I was blown away as I had not seen such detail in a model before........especially in a factory stock car! That's when I decided to really sharpen up my skills and it definitely reshaped my thinking towards model building. I have to also give a hats off to the late Augie Hiscano............I got to have a really good conversation with Augie at the '04 Birmingham show. I had first met him a few years earlier at Toledo, but it was so busy there that there was no time to have a lengthy conversation with him. I'll always remember that talk with Augie at Birmingham..................little did I know that would be the last time I would speak to him as he passed away just before the '05 GSL. While I'm not a street rod kinda guy, his builds have always really impressed me for no other reason than all the machining work that he had put into them. If you're wondering who got me into figuring out working windows....................It was Ken Hamilton. Ken wrote an article about working windows back in the October '86 issue of SAE and I got to see the model in person when Ken showed up at a local show shortly thereafter. I was knocked out by the roll up windows-----but my skills were no where near the level to even think about something like that then! Thanks for inspiring me Ken!

Nice!! Izzat a Corvair engine I see in the light blue color? I'd like to get one of those for a '63 Corvair redo down the road. Impressive Box Art BTW!!

Ditto on the Gasser!............And that's an excellent kit you're using BTW! The purple body color makes it all the more interesting also.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...mp;hl=Embossing

That '51 turned out very nice and clean-----but I gotta agree.............it cries out for some BMF! I wish I could get something done that nice in 8 hours!

Beautiful conversion work so far Jim! I like how this is going! I'm still patiently awaiting mine from Hannant's in the UK...............it should be any day now!

I've been using it particularly when I found out that Revell (and to an extent RC2) were using cheaper grade plastic than in previous years. Especially when the production moved to China did the problem with plastic crazing occur. As Clay mentioned--------I've used Future right on the bare plastic before any primering and I've not had a single instance of crazing as I've used some pretty hot automotive stuff to paint the following models .................. Here's what our bottle looked like here in the States.............although I hear it's been changed a bit---I've had this stuff for awhile!

George, I run an automatic defrag which runs every Sunday morning. Defragging has more to do with your OS's programs and such and shouldn't affect 'net speed. It's a good thing to do though as well as clearing out the temp files as well. And yes, it does seem a wee bit faster this morning here in Central PA, but still way too slow compared to other sites. As an aside, I'm listening to music on Rhapsody as I type this, and the music isn't skipping or hanging up........so maybe it's a server problem on the board's end.

Okay, I'm not one to complain about connection speeds at peak times of the day, but is anyone alse having a slow time of getting on at oddball times of the day? I'm usually on early in the morning when I get home from work (around 7:30AM ET) and I have a heck of a slow time opening the board------------On the weekends I can be up early in the morning, say 2 or 3 AM and it's still slow! It's kinda frustrating too when you want to post but hit the reply button again, only to find that you've double posted. I'm on Comcast with the latest and greatest OS, so it shouldn't be the computer............I'm also not noticing any slowdown with a graphics heavy website such as eBay............. GREGG!!

Well, I gotta admit that I have a bias against the newer hobby paints such as Tamiya's car colors and also Testors. They're too "soft" for my tastes when it comes time for rubbing out and polishing. Considering the type of work I do, I've been spoiled by real automotive acrylic enamels and lacquers as to me they're much more durable for handling and such in the long run. Sure they're a bit pricier than the hobby paints...........but I can do several cars out of one can or in my case for the occasional mess up......... I won't run out of any in the middle of a paint job anytime.

Scott from this end it all looks good. One word of caution with the Viper in particular (and maybe the 'Vette) is that you've got to be really careful when putting on your color coats. You mentioned the crazing problem------that's because the plastic is very soft (especially the newest stuff) and doesn't take very well to hot automotive paints. I highly recommend some type of barrier on the bare plastic before you do any painting, such as Future Floor wax, BIN, or some other brand of your choice. I've been doing this for quite some time now, and have had no problems with crazing and I've used hot lacquers. Clay, I don't want to sound contrary-------but one should primer if they want their model to appear as realistic as possible. Paint on plastic will always look like paint on plastic if it's not given a good base to sit on. Some may want to paint the body on the inside to increase opacity, but that doesn't cut it for me since it still has that look like I just described.

Thanks Andrea! The Stude was begging for it because the fuel pipe is so prominent when the trunk is open.........I couldn't resist the call to go ahead and open the gas door and hinge it.

Well, here's a '58 Golden Hawk conversion from a '53 that I built back in 1997-98. Unfortunately, it was attacked by a big overactive cat and had it's hood damaged. I started to rebuild the hood but lost interest in it. Digging it back out now has me thinking about trying to restore it. There are some body work changes I'd like to do-----particularly with the lower front grilles and the doors and door jambs...................we'll see. Take a look..................... What I'd like to do is find a junker Danbury Mint '57 and use the interior out of that to rebuild it.......but they can be hard to find at best.

Jonathan's got it pretty much covered ..................I want to add this caveat though----------------Don't rub out directly onto metallics! They need to be clearcoated first. Not doing so will leave the metallic finish in a swirly, mottled appearance. This will be most noticeable on dark cars. You might be able to get away with it on it subtle metallics such as Chrysler's Hemi Orange.................but on others it's best to clearcoat first. Also with the chamois cloth, you can throw them in the washer once they get too dirty. They'll be mighty stiff when they're dry, but simply grab the chamois by both ends and rub back and forth across the edge of a table, and it'll be good as new.