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Everything posted by MrObsessive
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Pics of the Second "Muscle Car Model Madness"
MrObsessive replied to Luis Ayala's topic in Contests and Shows
Roberto I was looking at the pics from last year's show and this pic and comment is too funny! Tell 'em I'm the "dark" one! -
Pics of the Second "Muscle Car Model Madness"
MrObsessive replied to Luis Ayala's topic in Contests and Shows
Dang! Maybe next time................I'd loooove to get back there again and get away from the cold and snow I'm dealing with today........ Thanks for the pics Luis! Looks like it was a GREAT show! -
1963 Impala Lowrider Project Updete # 3
MrObsessive replied to Luis Ayala's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Well now thanks Mark! You've got me blushing........................I wish you could see! To Miguel and Luis...............you're always welcome to stay at my house although I'm an hour or so from Towson! :wink: -
You'll need to post pics through a photo hosting site such as Fotki, or Photobucket.........and if you click here there's a tutorial to post pics. Hope this helps.......I'd like to see your Supra! 8) BTW, you'd best put your full name in the signature area in your profile...........otherwise the moderators can restrict you from posting! :wink:
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Project Magnum UPDATE 2/12/07 ... the interior!
MrObsessive replied to MrObsessive's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Nice work so far Ken! 8) This'll be my next build after I finish the Turbine Car...................maybe as a tow vehicle! :mrgreen: -
Absolutely Fantastic! 8) Your flame jobs amaze me! :shock:
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Scott, the doors look nice and cleanly cut out! 8) You can use the method I did for getting the panel gaps reasonable by adding plastic to the perimeter of the doors/trunk, and then filing and sanding it down. As far as the interior, what I've done in the past is use the flip side of the chassis as the interior. If you think about it, 1:1 cars don't have interior tubs............the interior sits on the flip side of the chassis floor itself. The driveshaft tunnel/toeboards can be cut away from the interior tub, and then grafted on the chassis floor. Likewise, the rear quarter interior panels and rear shelf area. Don't worry if the floor doesn't meet up to the rocker panels in the model............Most 1:1 cars have a "stepdown" from the rockers to the floor, and you can build this area with sheet plastic. As far as the interior door panels, you may have to carefully add some plastic around them to get them to correspond to the shape of the door itself. In recent years the model manufacturers have been building new tools with "platform" interiors which make things alot easier for those of us that like to have opening panels. The trunk area also can be built up using the floor of the chassis..............I recommend getting some good photos of the trunk to see where to go from there, but I'm sure you got plenty 'o pics! As your skills get more advanced, you may want to consider building up the framing that's on the underside of most trunk lids.............this can take a while to build, but it's worth it if the model's gonna be displayed with the trunk open. Hope some of this helps and keep us posted! :mrgreen:
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I highly recommend the Tamiya paint stand as Chris has shown..........I've used it alot and I also have the parts holder one which has alligator type clips to hold things. Click here to check them out.
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buffing finished cars
MrObsessive replied to sno_man80's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I do pretty much what everyone else is doing except that I use Tamiya Acrylic Clear X-22. I don't like to tempt fate with that last topcoat........especially over metallics. Tamiya water based acrylics will go over anything so there's no problem with compatibility. If I mess up the clear, I can take some Windex or some other ammonia based product and wash it away. The caveat is this has to be done while the paint is wet. As far as rubbing it out......I use the polishing cloths as mentioned, however I don't wet sand the clear............there's too much risk in burning through it. Solid colors I wet sand with the cloths as they need no clearcoat. I use Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax for the final polishing with a chamois cloth.........been doing this for 20 years and it's never failed me! -
Very nice job on a model not seen anymore at the shows let alone the 1:1! 8) One of my favorite color combos for that car was the gold with black trim. I almost bought one of those new back in late '87 when the '88's were intro'd........but at over $15,000 out the door I passed! :roll: Lot's of dough back then for a new car...... If my crystal ball would have been working I should've bought that car anyway, and put it away somewhere as Pontiac would discontinue the car come March '88.
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I hear ya Izzy! It's one of the reasons I'm spending sooooo much time on the bodywork with the Turbine Car. While it would probably look decent to the average viewer right out of the box, I'm looking at durability as the doors will be opened and closed a bunch of times. Not to mention some fit troubles that will be sure to bite me at the last moment. Last thing I need is for the door or fender to fall off in the middle of a demonstation! :oops: What we're trying to do is reduce the cumulative effect of bad prep work. The extra work is a PITA at times..........but well, well worth it in the end!
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Too much on the bench ANOTHER 32,A 29 AND A VETTE!
MrObsessive replied to Tom Kren's topic in WIP: Model Cars
You're a better man than I Tom as I can never focus on more than one project at a time! Those all look pretty cool especially the 'Vette! That's good your daughter is learning to airbrush! She'll be beating us old guys in a few years! -
Lookin' good to me Ismael! Beautiful color also!!
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Steve, the way the air gets to the airbrush doesn't matter to the paint.............its how much pressure it can put out at any given moment. I had years ago one of those Badger Whirlwind compressors (do they still make those :?), but couldn't figure out at the time why I couldn't airbrush certain types of paint. Turns out that the Badger was only putting out something like 10 PSI where I needed 20 or better. I found this out by doing a test and reading an issue of SA(E) when they did a test of different compressors. Some guys use an airtank........because they can only paint at night and the wife and kids don't like the noise, or the neighbors complain if you live in an apartment. Airtanks are great if you have somewhere to fill them up............but I'd imagine they're mighty heavy to have to lug around! :shock: My Paasche's been going strong for 10+ years now..............I recommend them for someone looking for an inexpensive compressor.
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Hi Manfred and welcome to the board! GSL, or its full acronym GSLMCC, stands for the Greater Salt Lake Model Car Championship. It's the premier show/contest in the country!! You'll have guys from all over the world show up there to compete, and the very best of the best will have models there. Mark Gustavson runs it and there'll be a show sometime in May. Unfortunately, I can't make it this year (just bought a house in October) and I don't have the vacation time. The show comes up every 2 years, so the next one will be 2009.............if you ever get there, you'll have the time of your life as every model is first class! There's not a glue bomb to be seen! I don't know how Mark does it as far as judging.............a very difficult task with all the excellent builds one will see there! Edit: Click here to find out more!
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'63 Chrysler Turbine Car Update----Final Update!-6/23/07
MrObsessive replied to MrObsessive's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Hi Charlie and Thanks! I don't know when I'll be back to Birmingham..............perhaps next year as I'll have more vacation time in the next fiscal year at work. But I'm also planning to head back waaaaaaay down south of the border to Puerto Rico next year :mrgreen:.............. so I'll have to see how the money goes. I have plenty of acetate to do for the windows, this one won't have roll up windows (haven't figured out power windows yet ) but the windscreen and rear backlite will be acetate. Thanks for the offer! -
'63 Chrysler Turbine Car Update----Final Update!-6/23/07
MrObsessive replied to MrObsessive's topic in WIP: Model Cars
I'm finally seeing daylight in the bodywork and corrections to the Turbine Car. It's funny how when I look at this kit here in the first decade as opposed to when I built this kit in the '80's as to how many flaws there are! I guess that's what gettin' older does to ya! This past week I started work on the passenger side door. Like the driver's side door, it needed "lengthening" so that the shut lines aren't too wide. I repeated the same technique for the door jambs and such like the other side, and then went to test fit everything to make sure the door swings freely. So far so good! I'll need however to trim down the leading edge of the door so that when the fenders are on, there's no scraping of either edge. One peculiarity that kept nagging at me is the shape of the lower cowl/A pillar in relation to the hood and door. It seemed too squared off and blocky to me. Also, the door and fender contours on the driver's side don't seem to match up as well as they could. I first reshaped the door section with some Tamiya putty and let it sit overnight....... Then I took some plastic strip and "shortened" the crease that's on the shoulder of the door. I once again used Tamiya putty to blend in the contours, and let it set overnight. This looks better! The contours match up better and at the same time I rounded off the lower part of both sides of the cowl/A pillars to more closely suit the 1:1. Later down the road, I'm going to attach the fenders first, and then hang the doors afterwards. The top edge of the door gap still seemed a bit too wide, so I glued another small piece of plastic here with Ambroid Pro Weld. Tomorrow I'll sand and shape this to the contour of the door. Now it's on to the rockers.............they appear a little shallow to me, so for the time being I added some square rod and glued in place with the Ambroid. The passenger side rocker is worse than the other side as I had to try and "square up" the trailing edge with another piece of plastic. Later I'll putty these in and smooth them out. After I get finished with the rockers, I'll move on to the trunk area and its framing. I thought about making my own hinges out of brass for the trunk..........but as I was test fitting the framing they appear to be sturdy enough without snapping. For those of you faint of heart.........this kit is a real A** kicker! It's not to be done swiftly, or it will surely fall apart as I learned 20 odd years ago. Thank goodness I have the patience and technique to deal with the idiosyncracies of this model or I would have shelved it already! :shock: :mrgreen: Stay tuned for another adventure! -
That's one of my favorite's too Luis! It's the first model I noticed when I was at your place! And folks.......this model won big at the Mid Atlantic NNL last year! :mrgreen:
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Gray, I got it at my local auto paint supplier (RC Cook's) I originally wanted to try the Evercoat stuff...........but that seems to be hard to find here in Central PA for some reason. I've had the same can for about 5 years and it hasn't gone bad, as long as you reclose the lid real tight. :wink: The hardener though I've had to replace as it does go bad after awhile, but that stuff's cheap and they do sell the hardener separately. The website I had highlighted in my post (URL tag)...........should be able to sell it to you over the 'net.
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That turned out great Brian! Sometimes you have to drag models kicking and screaming to get them done!
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Some guys swear by Squadron Putty.....personally, I can't stand it because it's still shrinking long after you think it's dry, and it's just not durable enough for me. I use basically two putties........... Tamiya Putty for small jobs--------and for larger areas, I use Dynatron Putty Cote. Dynatron is great stuff as it doesn't shrink, is workable within a 1/2 hour, and feather edges beautifully! Tamiya's putty shrinks very little if at all, but I recommend letting it sit overnight for it to fully harden. Dynatron's a two part mix.........and I highly recommend using it in a very well ventilated room! It's powerful stuff if y'know what I mean! :mrgreen: Others may have their preferences, but those are my two faves.
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2007 Trans Am.... WIP with pics. Update 2-7
MrObsessive replied to Custom Hearse's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Clean putty work so far Marshall! What type of putty are you using? Keep up the good work! -
'63 Chrysler Turbine Car Update----Final Update!-6/23/07
MrObsessive replied to MrObsessive's topic in WIP: Model Cars
Scott, the model I'm working on already had the doors cut out...............thus the already built in door jambs for the body. I scratchbuilt my own hinges due to Johan's less than reliable hinges that were "built in" on the body. I originally built one of these back in 1985, and the doors were a very sloppy fit........and the hinges eventually broke! It would be really hard to explain with words how to build up door jambs for the body------I'd have to see what you're working on to give you any tips on what you could do to build up that area. Since I've gotten my digicam three years ago, I haven't done any builds that show step by step how to build body door jambs................but if you check my Fotki page------ click to my '55 Ford Victoria buildup ----- you can see where I had to modify somewhat the door jambs that were built in for a more in scale appearance. I'm seriously considering making my own trunk hinges since once again, they're plastic and I just don't trust plastic hinges. This may involve some soldering, so stay tuned! :wink: Thanks for asking!