MrObsessive

Yeah Len, that's the one! I've been wantin' another one for years but don't feel like payin' eBay prices (read expensive! :shock:)............here's the one I built about 10 years ago.......

That's a sharp piece Ken! 8) Love the chassis detail painting...............that kit always did have nice engraving for the floorpan!

Jared, you can make a temporary "funnel" out of newspaper------or do what I did and buy a stack of snow cone cups off eBay. "Snow Cones" are those things you see at the amusement park or wherever they sell flavored ice. Cut the tip off the snow cone, tape the cone to your airbrush jar, and then spray your can directly into the "funnel" which will run into your airbrush jar. The same can be done with newspaper, 'cept that newspaper is so tall, you have to be careful it doesn't tip over your jar. When the paint dries up a bit in the funnel simply throw it out. This makes everything nice and neat and you won't have messy paint dripping and running from one jar to another! :wink: Edit: Jared, here's a pic of the snow cone cup I used as a funnel behind the can of primer........ Hope this helps out!

Very nice and excellent paint!! The ride height and wheels are spot on too! Ya gotta demonstrate how you made the dash RHD sometime too! 8)

Wow, talk about an advanced design for 1960!! I'm just kiddin' ya Luis........I think that's a '69 though, but just imagine if that DID come out in the fall of '59? Beautiful job as always Luis!! 8)

ALLRIGHT!! The 250 GTO's comin' back!!! It's been way too long for that one to be rereleased! I'm curious to see the 599 also! Thanks Larry!

That depends Derek...........I'm at a point in my life where building for shows is not that important anymore. :wink: I've been superdetailing stuff for 10-15 years now and I'm at a point where I just want to get some more models done. Most shows you'll go to the folks don't open the doors............I would just focus on the basics for now.......as you get more skilled, you can turn to other types of detailing. :wink:

Yeah, things are moving at lightning speed now.............whatever indigestion it had must be down the toilet now!

Opening doors for a contest model is not a prerequisite Derek. I've seen cars win that didn't have any working features on them at all! If you've ever been to the premier contest in the country-----which is the GSLMCC held in Salt Lake City, Utah..................there were many cars that have won that didn't have any working features on them. I've been a judge in the past, and I can tell you the first thing I look at when judging a contest model is the paint. The roof is the first thing I notice since that's the closest thing to my eye. So you want your paint job to be top notch! No runs, drips, paint blobs, dusties or other such things. Clean assembly is also very important! You want to fill in and get rid of any mold lines, seams, sink marks, etc. Also, I've taken points off for something as innocent as an epoxy smear on glass-----so clean assembly is paramount! You can have all the bells and whistles in the world, but if the paint job looks like ###### and has indifferent assembly-------trust me, you'll lose to someone who doesn't have a single working feature on his/ her car.

From the looks of what's on the table, those guys are right up my alley! I'll have to make it a point to get to one of their meetings sometime! 8) Thanks for the pics Dan!

Jared, you don't say what type of compressor you're using............I use acrylics almost exclusively for interiors and always have used an airbrush. The airbrush I've used for the last 12 years or so is a Badger Crescendo which uses an internal mix. I use an Paasche compressor which is set to about 20-25 PSI for all airbrushing. Acrylics need a bit higher pressure to push through the airbrush, so I don't think it's the alcohol that's causing the problem. As far as the alcohol's concerned................Tamiya flat acrylics seem to not have a problem with iso alcohol. However, in the past I have had a problem with their glosses unless you use their thinner. This is especially true if you plan to use their glosscoat. Fisheyes can result if you use anything else but their thinner...........at least that's what my experience has been. When you mix the paint, you want it to have the consistency of milk.........sounds kinda trite, but it works. Too thin of a mixture will cause the paint to dry out quickly or runs.............too thick of a paint can lead to the paint not atomizing properly out of the airbrush, causing clogs and spitting, not to mention the dreaded orange peel. If you're familiar with the rules of airbrushing...............always start the airbrush before your work..............paint past your work and never stop the airbrush on it! That will always lead to a blob on your model! :shock: Hope all this info helps!

The only color I can think of that is an exact match for Hemi engine orange is an OSHA Safety Orange made by Krylon. Krylon's paints are Acrylic Enamel. I can't think of an exact mix of OTC enamels except some orange and maybe some white. The body color for Hemi Orange isn't quite right for the engine as the engine color is more of a popsicle orange than a reddish orange. If you have a paper funnel such as what they use for flavored ice cones...........cut the tip off, tape the funnel to your airbrush jar, and spray away. You can also roll up newspaper to a funnel and do the above steps........but be careful the newspaper doesn't tip the jar over! Hope this helps! Edit: Here are a couple pics of a Hemi I built in a Daytona Charger years ago......... As you can see the engine color is quite a different shade than the body which is Mopar Hemi Orange Metallic.

Another superb masterpiece Mark!! I have the street version of that kit, (the green one) but I don't think I'll ever get as intense with mine as you have with yours! How many of those have you done now?

Okay, well that '66 Chevelle's doors would open the same as my '64 Goat as they were built on the same cowl and basic floorpan. Once you get the hang of opening and hinging the doors, it gets easier and easier!

Derek, that'll depend on the type of car you're doing. Some cars have a "gooseneck" hinge, while others swing on a pivot. Pics of the car with the door open would be a big help. Gooseneck hinges allow the door to swing outside the fender, while pivot hinges let the leading edge of the door turn inside the fender. Time doesn't allow me to demonstrate every step in hingeing the doors................but here are a couple links which have pics of the hinges I've used. http://public.fotki.com/MrObsessive/projec...64_gto_project/ http://public.fotki.com/MrObsessive/projec..._ford_fairlane/ There's lots of pics there.................but some closeups of the hinges can be seen. Probably the best advice I can give you is to practice on a junk body to get the hang of it................a lot of what I do is trial and error. Hope this helps!

Kyle, here's the link that Chris originally posted back in November of Revell's flyer for '07. Click here to take a look............. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the compliments as this juncture guys! It should be a downhill slide from here on out. As I'm typing this the door panels and dash have been painted..............just waiting for it to dry so I can detail 'em. Hopefully if all goes well I'll have pics of the dash, and the completed interior tonight.

Yeah, that's a complex shape to boot Ismael. That's why I cheated and simply painted the roof black! In the 1:1, the panel does look almost completely black from the outside anyway. :wink:

Anyone here experiencing slow speed with the board?? I'm on cable and sometime it takes a while just to get the messages to show up or go back a page. Could be Comcast is having indigestion, but I've noticed this for a while now and at different times of the day.

HA!! Check out that wild Firebird III!! I'd love to have one of those Andy! I'll have to check it out in person at NNL East!

Fellas, here's a comprehensive list of all things model related including resin! Click here to check it out!

Wow! That is NICE Miguel! That Focus is a cool car! 8) I've got one of those Texaco Gas Stations that I should try to tackle sometime...........I just wish it was a two bay gargage though.......

Okay, it’s been awhile since I did an update……….but here’s the latest on the ’05 ‘Vette. I started to polish out the liftoff roof to simulate the optional glass top on the 1:1. I clearcoated the black lacquer with Tamiya X-22 (my favorite!) and put in the dehydrator for about 6 hours. Here’s the result……. Wow!! Dig that shine! I think that the glass roof makes the roofline of the C6 much better looking and not so “blockyâ€. Why Revell didn’t offer this in the kit is a mystery………..but the kit is building up fairly well so far. I turned my attention to the chassis details after getting tired of polishing…..(it can wear you out!) and started to paint the chassis to represent the different structures of the chassis. I took my Tamiya tape and masked off the floor section and then sprayed that section with Tamiya gray primer, since that closely represents the 1:1’s floorpan. BTW, the Tamiya primer didn’t craze the plastic, as I did spray it directly out of the can, however I did put it on in very light coats at a time. As you can see I also masked off the gas tanks and airbrushed those with Alclad Magnesium. The upper control arms I brush painted with Tamiya Gunmetal acrylic. After I was satisfied with how the painting details went, I went ahead and finished up the engine and front suspension pieces………. Different shades of Alclad were used to get the shades for the engine block, lower engine cradle, and suspension arms. A side note………1:1 pics I have of the engine out of the car show the block as an aluminum color……….however Revell tells you to paint the engine block black. I went with what the pictures showed and painted the block aluminum, as I think it looks better and more “hi-techâ€. :wink: Now that the engine was done and the front and rear suspensions are in place, I put it all together in the floorpan, and I’m pretty pleased with the looks of it. Note how the different shades of aluminum can bring out the details……………more work for sure, but worth the effort! Now I want to try to fix that off wheelbase problem with the fronts!……………. I filed down the shims on the backing plates on the fronts and then filled the hole in with .080 Plastuct styrene rod. I flowed in some Ambroid Pro Weld, and let sit overnight. I then took a drill bit the approximate size of the wheel spindle and drilled a new hole a few 1/64’s of an inch forward than where the previous hole was set…………. Chassis’s all done now! I thought previously that only the driver’s side was way off as far as the wheel placement was concerned. Both sides actually needed adjusting to my eyes, as I test fitted both sides with the brake discs on, and they line up the way they should now…………… The front inner fenders will need tucked in the fascia a bit more……………that is the ride height the car will have when everything is done. Yesterday, I started messin’ around with the interior……………..I got the seats painted and floor flocked. In a departure from the 1:1, I painted the center console black. Pics show the console a buff color like the seats……….but this looks so bland to me. Besides if I’m gonna spend 45g’s for this car, they’re gonna make it the way I want! Well, I still have a little ways to go yet……………..paint the door panels and dash, dechrome the wheels and repaint them, and then it’s just the little things left. The glass will have to be masked and "Blacked Off"..........and finish rubbing out the body. Thanks for lookin’! :wink:

Here's your pics Carl...............Very impressive BTW!! Your image tags need to be lower case..................img instead of IMG.

Yup! It was Johan's nice '69 AMX that was out years ago............I had a 1:1 '69 with a 390/4spd. I originally bought it back in '87 but had to get rid of it when I was stationed at Fort Jackson, S.C. in 1992. Interestingly, I have yet to build that car as I have had the kit for a number of years now!