MrObsessive

409's didn't debut until late in the '61 model year.............but it was basically a bored out 348 which one could get in '58. '58 348's could be ordered with a 3x2 setup which is what my signature pic is. :mrgreen:

Not Mike obviously but, LHS= Local Hobby Shop :wink:

Why Thanks!! :mrgreen: Lookin' good so far from my point of view.............Matching color bike looks pretty cool too! 8)

Revell's by a landslide! However, a lot of guys don't like 1/24 scale so it will depend on your preference. You could always kitbash that AMT '66 with the newer tool '67........they were essentially the same car, and the '67 has a ton more detail chassis wise. :wink:

Scott, the purpose of applying the Future Floor Wax before any primer or paint, is to guard against crazing. :shock: Revell's (and to some extent RC2's) plastic in recent years is very susceptible to crazing if you're using any "hot" automotive paint. Some have said that the "cooler" paints such as Tamiya lacquers and others don't have this effect. However, if you want to paint your model in anything other than the colors the hobby paints offer------you're gonna have to barrier the plastic in some way. I like to use Future because it's simple and quick, and the military guys have been using this for years which is where I picked up this technique. It also guards against that nasty bleed through yellow or red plastic. If you're building a diorama, it also makes great water! Other guys like to use a product called "BIN Zinser Sealer", which is just as effective, but is more work to mix up and airbrush on the body. Wait times? I'd say about 5 minutes between Future coats.........about the same for color and clear coats. There's not always a fast and hard rule as it will depend on the humidity, your mix of thinner to paint ratio, if your spraying with a can, type of paint, etc.

Well, it's back to work tonight for another work week..........so I figured I need to get the rest of the drivers side door done! The other evening when I was test fitting the door skins............I noticed a woefully large gap at the trailing edge of the door! Well, that won't do, so I glued on some sheet plastic (.020 thickness) and let it sit overnight. Later, I sanded the plastic away to suit the contours of the door------including the trim. While I was at it I might as well attach the door jamb to the skin. I'll need to putty in the gap that's on the upper rear edge of the door jamb. Now that's much better! You can see where the plastic has been added to the trailing edge, and it now doesn't have a gap so wide you can stuff a cat through it! I like to use the 3x5 card method for checking gaps. If the card slips through the gap fairly easily without trouble, then it should be okay. One has to allow for paint thickness down the road so the shut lines can't be too tight. Oh my! This is a trouble spot here! Since the doors turn towards the inside of the fenders, there needs to be a gap here also........... I sanded the leading edge of the door to suit the contour of the trailing edge of the fender. Note that the gap is just a tiny bit wider than the trailing edge. I also filed an angle to the lower door trim for clearance. While not prototypically correct for the 1:1, this may be needed due to the thickness of the plastic. If I file the inside of the fender too thin, there'll be problems down the road as far as painting is concerned. The 1:1 has a chrome strip on the tops of the doors and on top of the rear quarter window well. While I'm thinking of it, might as well duplicate this with some .010x.020 plastic strip and my Ambroid Pro Weld. With the door attached (not permanently) to the hinges, you can see how the door should turn in------and the leading edge of the door isn't scraping against the trailing edge of the fender when opening or closing. Well that's it for a few days.......hope you guys like this step by step progress and I'm not boring you to tears! :shock: Thanks for lookin'!

Hmmm..........David I thought about BMF, as I did my last one like that years ago. I've got another trick up my sleeve though as I may use Alclad chrome to paint that lower area. :twisted: IIRC, the actual car has a really chrome like finish on those rockers............I gotta plan this one out as Alcad should be the last thing I paint to avoid too much masking or handling.

Sorry it took awhile to answer your question man.......:oops: I originally bought this kit at our local Chrysler show (Carlisle, PA) for about 20 bucks I think about 5 years ago. I have another one but the body was a bit too warped for me to want to spend too much time trying to straighten it out. I believe the version I have was put out sometime in the late '70's. You could check eBay..............I've seen them go for anywhere from $15-$20. Johan (or Seville?) in recent years put out an EZ kit................this builds up into a promo style model without all the opening stuff or engine. They can be had for as little as $10 bucks on the 'Bay.

Cool Builds Bob! 8) I love 'em both!

Hi Scott, I use Dynatron Putty-Cote as a filler. It's a Bondo Product and can be found at some auto body supply shops, and it's a two part mixture. What's nice about it is that it has some plastic in it so if you need to attach some styrene trim.............it will bond with the putty using liquid cement (Ambroid Pro-Weld is what I use). Thanks for asking!

Not sure what you mean without a pic.............do you mean the entire hood or the trailing edge?? Or?? It may mean you have to sand the outer edges of the hood before you do any painting............. which is a good idea as basics go. Some model manufacturers don't allow for the thickness of the hood to be in scale. Not to mention when paint is applied it makes it that much thicker. 1:1 cars have sheet metal edges (doors, trunks, hoods) which in 1/24-25 scale would be paper thin. Of course you don't want to sand too much as the hood would be "sunken" into its opening. Not to mention paint chipping easier on the edges. I don't know if you're a beginner, but it's best to test fit everything before painting it..........you can't always trust the model makers to get it right for you! :wink:

No, mine is a 2 door hardtop Victoria............It's on hiatus now due to the rear trunk trim and the grille. I got a beat up Franklin Mint diecast that might work for the rear trim, (it's 1/24th though) and I also have a Boyd's Orange Crisp '55 Ford wagon diecast for the grille. I have another build planned after I finish the Turbine Car (Revell's Dodge Magnum wagon) then I'll get back to the Ford.

Miguel, I didn't know you did 1/43! Those look great! 8) I build those every once in a while.................good therapy! Here's a couple pics of one I did............a 1965 Simca Abarth by Provence Moulage. This year I'd like to do a couple more, as these can test your skills!

Tom, that's a first class Rod! Take a bow!

Ditto what Nick said! The finish looks like 1:1's! Thanks for the tip about bending the aluminum tubing........that makes sense as you don't give the tubing a chance to make a knot by making it more solid. It would also give you some "room" to attach something else without having to drill through a solid piece of aluminum. 8)

Also, when some paste the URL of a web page into their reply, the URL can be so long that it can cause the page to shift. I like to use the URL tags to keep that from happening. :wink:

Yup..............when I post pics from Fotki, I have it set so that they are 700x500 pixel. Large enough to see detail, but not too big that you have to shuffle the screen around to see everything. Fotki does resize them for web travel if your original pic is larger..............but I believe 700x500 pixel is the largest they'll let show on the screen.

Hi Raymond!! Glad you dropped in! You'll like it here! :mrgreen:

I figured I might as well start on what may be the toughest aspect of this model..........hinging the doors! This update focuses on one side as obviously the other side will follow suit as well! This went along pretty smoothly...........I just wished I could have known these techniques back in 1985 when I built this model last! I took the cutters and cut away the original hinge here................good thing I marked off where the hinge points were as I'd surely forget! I then took my Dremel Moto tool and grinded away at the too thick door, to a thickness which is more in scale at the trailing edge of the door. I don't want to make this too thin as it can become a problem when painting and polishing.................the edges will be hard to keep paint on. Hmmmm.................Johan molded the inner door panels as part of the door jamb. While this is expedient from a manufacturing standpoint, in 1:1 it's not realistic as your door jamb is part of the door skin, and the inner door panel is a separate piece as part of the interior. I simply took both sides of the exacto blade and cut as best I could the inner door panel away. Here's the separated door panel..............later I will build the door panel back up with sheet plastic to more closely match the contour of the door jamb. To build up the hinge area I got some plastic rod which closely matches the circumference of the original hinge area. Yes, there's a method to my madness as you'll see! The rod was glued in with Ambroid Pro Weld and was left alone to sit overnight. Once I let things sit overnight, I test fit the area over where the door would have "trapped" the original hinge over the body. To deepen the area, I ground out a bit more of the channel in the door with my dremel. Hmmm...............fits pretty good.........I think though that I'll grind out just a scooch more so everything fits flush. Since these doors pivot (as opposed to the swing out type), they will need something to pivot on................I took a #75 drill bit and used the pin vise to drill holes in the plastic rod area. Mind you, this is all eyeball engineering........I have no scientific precise measurements to tell me exactly where the holes should be. :wink: I placed the door jamb inside the body, and then marked off on the body hinge support approximately where my "hinge pins" will rest. The hinge support is evergreen plastic square rod...............I can't remember the size-----I try to pick something that looks in scale. Here's what I use for hinge pins.................simple brass rod (about .020 dia.) Just bend them at right angles to hold the door jamb in place. So far so good................the door jamb swing open and closes without any binding.............almost........ I'm gonna have to cut away some material at the leading edge of the door jamb hinge area. When I try to open the door, the "excess tabs" push the leading edge of the door jamb outwards..........obviously, that won't work! :shock: The trailing edge of the door jamb when fully shut................I may replace the tab that Johan molded in to keep the door shut with some type of catch. This may be a watch pin (ala my '69 Charger Daytona) or some other contraption I can fettle together! Inside of the door jamb hinge support.................when everything is fully painted and detailed, these pins will be epoxied in the holes. When the epoxy has fully dried (overnight) then I'll simply cut them away flush too the hinge support. Then I can put in the rest of the interior with the kick panels, etc. Here's the door "skin" up against the door jamb. There's a faint horizontal crease on the door that doesn't quite line up with the rest of the body. Using the method I did with the '05 'Vette..............I'll redo this crease to make it more in line. The door is fitting pretty well, as I mentioned above, I want the leading edge of the door to fit just a scooch tighter against the hinge area/interior door jamb. Note that I still have to cut away the tabs that were sticking out and causing the binding. Just a little bit of binding was still occurring, so I got the Dremel and ground some plastic away on the hinge support. I tried to "round them" so when the door opens there is some clearance to keep them from pushing away from the support. AHHHHHHHHH!! Much better since I cut those tabs away! No pushing out, no binding............everything looks honky-doory! One thing to keep in mind when hinging doors, is you want to make sure your hinge support is exactly vertical and not leaning either way. If the bottom of the hinge leans to the inside of the door, it'll make the door appear to be "hitting the curb". If the bottom edge is to far to the outside of the body, the opened doors will look like "butterflies", and look just as peculiar. The door jamb here looks to be nice and level, although I have to account for the fact that the body is very slightly warped. As time goes on, I'll be checking the opening and closing of the doors for a fit appearance. I'll try and finish up the drivers side door, and then move to the other side throughout the weekend into next week------then I'll try to clean up the other body flaws. :shock: Stay tuned! :mrgreen:

James, how did you bend the aluminum tubing for the roll bar without kinks? Yours looks very good! 8) Everytime I've tried that it came out less than desirable........

Very Nice! Love the small details for the dash!

Hi Mel, just click here to check out another post about pics.

Aaaaaahhhhhh!! One of my favorite '60's road racers!! Beautiful paint James!! I definitely wanna watch this one!

Street rods are not my forté, but yours Steve are mighty cool! 8) Stan did an excellent job on upholstering that seat.......I could never get that result.........is that the cloth the kit gives you? I have the kit but like everything else, it's buried in the basement!

Hee Hee....... If you're goin' to the meeting Saturday, I'll run by you what I want to do. Be patient my brother!............ :mrgreen: