highway

I also agree, and I found the Alumilite resin quite pleasing to work with, I started with what I believe is the same mini set you are referring to and liked it so much I bought the larger bottles. As some have said, though, the mini set will not go far, and when I made the trip back to the Hobbytown I bought mine from (over 100 miles away!), they were out of the mold rubber, that's why I only have big bottles of resin. I personally have not had any issues with their mold rubber, but all I was able to make from the starter set is this one for a tractor trailer headache rack and a couple very small part ones, but I have gotten about 10 casts out of it with no problems. This is one of the boxes I made with their resin, and follow this link to see one I traded here actually on a truck: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=31022 Of course, like others have said, too, it does set very quickly. I forgot that one time after not using it for a while, and this is what happen, a headache rack that turned into some sort of modern art!!

I'm not sure about the PlayStation, Brian, but I got these by pressing F12 on my keyboard. My best advice, since I don't have much expierence with any of the game consoles, well execpt for playing my friend's XBox a couple of times, would be check your options screen to see if you can take screenshots first. If you can, you should see something in either control options or gameplay options that will tell you what button to press for screenshots. Then if you can do that, if you have a USB port on the PlayStation to plug a flash drive into, try to copy it to the flash drive and download it to your computer or if you can share it in your network, copy it straight over. I don't know if that will help or not, since I just do my gaming on the computer, but it's worth a try! By the way, for computer based games, it's about the same technique, just look in the options, again either control or gameplay, then push the button for screenshots. In the case of mine, after I pressed F12, I heard a camera shutter type noise letting me know the screenshot was taken. You'll probably find, as in my case, they will save to a subfolder named "Screenshots" inside the main game folder. All you need to do is go to "Program Files" (on whatever hard drive the game is saved to if using multiple hard drives like me), then the folder of the game or game maker, then sreenshots. Then either copy and paste to your picture folder or if you want to upload to Photobucket, find the same on the list in the uploader.

It's in the right place. The pickup section is for non commerical pickups, and since every show I've ever been to consider emergency vehicles as commerical vehicles, it's proper here.

It was called "Project Torque". The servers were shut down Aug 1, though. There is another that just started Beta testing today called "Heat-Online" that is EXACTLY the same game. I downloaded and started playing it today, even though I'm upset I had to start all over!

I'll have to check the Force 440 the next time I go to my friend's house, he has one of those, too. Thanks for liking the Corolla, Brian. I found the game is going to be restarting soon under a new name, which stinks because I'd spent a year and a half to get to the level I was in the game, but will probably start playing it again. That's one reason I took the screenshots, so I could more or less have my old cars back. I also have a Corolla in the new Need For Speed World online game, I just haven't figured out screenshots on it yet. Of course, I did get a couple kits to build another one of my old in game cars, and older Mazda RX-7, I just haven't figured out to build it as my race car or my drifter! Here's the screenshots of each. This was my racing look. This was my drifting car, I couldn't race with it because the ground effects dragged on the track, and I had to have a sinister look!

I like the ram for the hood. I'll be watching this for sure!

Thanks for all the info and getting me sraightened out on what it is. I agree with both of you this is a very nice kit for it's age, and heck, I couldn't beat the price, NOTHING! My friend was cleaning his model room out and getting rid of things he'd gotten from another friend of ours that he lost interest in. If I wouldn't have given it a happy home, it would have probably been in the trash!

Thanks, Mark, I thought that was the case, but just wasn't sure. The light blue Celica Supra does sound like what this might be, here's a pic of it and you can see the original color on the back portion of the frame. I'm definitely no Japanese car expert! I also noticed after you said that the hood and front end are different from the Corolla, because I compared it to these screenshots of the car I'd like replicate from an online racing game I used to play before it was shut down. This was a Corolla AE86

Same here!

I got an old beater Toyota Corolla from a friend of mine and was looking on Drastic Plastic's instruction site. I checked all the MPC/AMT related pages with no luck. Am I correct that old MPC kits had a Fundimentions trademark? The only markings I found anywhere was the Fundimentions Trademark with a date of 1982 under the trunk area on the bottom of the interior pan. Any help is greatly appreciated as I would like to see if there might be anything important missing and I have a part or two I have no idea where they go. Also, if it helps, the kit is molded in a sorta metallic blue and if pictures would help, let me know, I'll take some. P.S. If you would happen to have the instructions to this kit, I'm sure Drastic Plastic's (and me, too) would appreciate you sharing them.

My first model was a 1/16 scale MPC "General Lee". I got it either as a birthday or Christmas present when I was about 8 years old and my dad and I put it together. I'm very pleased AMT is reissuing this kit this year, and plan to buy it since the original is long since gone. At least this time, I'll paint it before it's put together unlike the first, and maybe I won't paint the sunvisors green this time, either!

That's the kit I was thinking of, Mark, thanks. Thanks for setting me straight, too. I got my winged warriors mixed up! Since I wasted the time thinking I was going to prove you wrong not even thinking I even put "Richard Petty Superbird" in the search, here's some old footage of Petty's Superbird I found on YouTube! I appears like it might be from Sonoma. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kH07ELHkQHc I also found this pic of it in the Richard Petty Museum.

Thanks for the info, Brett, and I'll see if I can find the two part silicone the next time I'm at Michael's. All I've seen before is the one part brush one stuff in the same aisle as the glues, but I never thought about the cake decorating section.

Ok, and if I remember correctly, just so if you do have them, the front two are slightly smaller than the rear ones but all have the same tread pattern.

Yeah, I think I remember an issue of that with markings to build a Richard Petty Daytona.

I got to say REAL, too, even though that front number plate sure looks like a decal to me.

Dave, this might be another to add to your list: It's not marked as a Pro Modeler kit, but it does come with a photoetched grille piece (in the small inset picture). I'm not sure what the Pro Modeler verison had in the way of photoetch, but this may be a reissue of it. This kit's copyright date is 2004.

Brett, have you tried this on larger items such as maybe wheels, grilles, or engine blocks? Also, have you tried it with regular resin? I have a couple projects stalled because I want a certain wheel or something, but I don't have any regular mold rubber and really don't want to waste the mold rubber even if I did have it. I've got plenty of quick set Alumilite resin, though! Also, can any of the products you mentioned be found at Michael's?

Jim, I would probably say Mick hit the nail on the head with his second idea. I would probably do the same thing laying the red down first, then unmask the area you want gold. I think maybe the only thing I would add is use a notecard or something similar to "mask" the red, but would not stick to the red and possibly pull it up. That way it would reduce the chance of contaminating the red with the gold.

Randy, the instructions are not showing any sidewall detail because there wasn't any! They looked like this: If you need them, PM me, I'm pretty sure I have the other three mates to this one in my parts box!

Yep, I see that one just fine, Don. Now I just wonder if it will show up on my computer at home!

I'm starting to wonder if it might not have something to do with internet service providers. I'm on my laptop right now at my friend's house and he has a different ISP than I do, and I'm seeing EVERY pic fine!

What is the big boo-boo?!?! You're killing me!

First, Brett, I'm not saying I don't appreciate this review, because I do! I'm even planning on buying one or two of these just because of the review, and I'm not a big Mopar fan. I guess the biggest ones that have been the parts joints on both transmissions and on the engine blocks that have been catching my eye. The size of the pics that will be printed doesn't really make a difference, either, because there have been quite a few builds in not only show coverage pics but articles as well where I've seen very noticealbe mold lines and some I've even though "I build better than this and have never been in a magazine!" In this case, though, I would have to agree the size of the pics are probably amplifying the joint seems, and the coloring of the transmission just drawing my eye to it more. In real life they might not be noticeable like they are here.

Will do, for some reason now I'm getting all but the first to pics, and it figures the 2010 T/A is the one I want to see most!