highway

X3!!! I commend you for not killing that thing Lonnie, but with that said, I HATE SNAKES!!!! I would have been running screaming like a little girl even seeing a little one like that, you'd see how fast a fat boy can run!!!

Yeah, lost a little cushion in the seat that day!! I was turning at an intersection when it let go, and I had the stereo on and it still was loud enough to hear over the radio! I even checked the footage on my dash cam after I got home that night after taking that trailer back to the warehouse (I was only 5 miles away from there when it broke) and having the load transferred to another trailer and finishing the run, and that "BANG" was so loud you could even hear it in the audio from the dash cam.

Very nice Clayton!

My opinion, if someone has a WIP thread and is asking for advice on something, sometimes the BEST way to offer that advice is to POST A PIC AND EXPLAIN IT!! There are some that may not fully understand just reading an explanation fully without a little visual aid to go along with it, or in my case when I've asked for opinions on something I'm considering for a build, actually seeing what someone has done similar or even the same idea on the same model makes me decide easier actually seeing it whether that is something I want to consider on my build or not. I welcome pics that are meant to be an aid in any WIP thread I have, and have posted pics meant to help in others WIP threads to explain a point. On the other hand, if it is a FINISHED build thread, then have a little taste and class and leave the thread to pics of the model that the person who started the thread and built the model the thread is for and only that build. If I post a finished build, comments are welcome but nothing, and I would be the first to tell anyone posting their builds in an under glass post I'd start pics of their build are not welcome in my thread!

Honestly in my opinion, and the last couple comments from Ron and Harry seem to go hand in hand with my opinion, most of the issue isn't the pic itself but the size of the image, and moreover it appearing as if it is part of a post. I know Ron has had that pic probably as long as I have been a member here, and that has been well over 5 and maybe closer to 10 years. Yeah, I even thought at first it was part of the post body, but after seeing it in every post he made, realized it was actually in the signature line because I noticed it was under his name. If this could be some or most of the issue with people thinking it is part of the post instead of the signature, maybe you could also add to your signature line "Pontiac Bonneville in loving memory of Dad" or something similar above it.

I know you were! That was more to enlighten, I'm sure there are probably some that would say "Those kits are too expensive as it is, more parts would just make it more expensive!", but as the old saying goes, "You get what you pay for". I would rather pay $60 for one Meng F350 dually if it was made or even as the case is pay more for the resin dually conversion that available to build trucks that are still commonly seen on the road every day than $20 to $30 for yet another 1987-1991 Revellogram F350 dually reissue. The haters will probably argue "Those are still common on the road too" and that is true, I own a 1:1 1990 dually myself, but with a half a dozen of the Revellogram kit in my stash already, I'd rather have a few newer duallys.

Yes Jonathan, but if it would have meant I would have paid $60 or even $65 for basically what would be a "2 in 1" kit instead of the $56 I paid for each of the 4 F350s in my stash, I would have in a heartbeat. I also would have more than just 4 in the stash, 2 of the ideas I already have already mean I have to get dually wheels for one and the resin dually conversion available for the other.

I'm actually curious since their first offering was Blue Oval and now this being a GM licensed product and both being diesel powered, if maybe something with a Ram's head in the grille and a Cumapart under the hood may not be in the crystal ball??? If so, here's my little 2 cents for the suggestion box if a heavy duty Ram would be tooled as the Ford was with separate bedsides, add about 14 extra pieces to the kit: 2 dually bedsides 6 stock dually wheels 2 extra tires 4 optional Alcoa style outer dually wheels. If that was just done even with the Ford, that one kit would yield 4 variants of the truck.

Thank you. You get what you pay for. Don't get me wrong, I have as many AMT trucks in my collection as I do Revell of Germany and also Italeri, but for an example, if I was given a choice of 2 AMT Kenworth W900 kits like the "Movin' On" kit or 1 Revell AG Kenworth W900, I would choose the Revell.

I talked with one of the mechanics at work tonight that is not only a modeler, but also served in the Army working on the military spec H1 and also worked in a GM garage, and found that these era Hummers have the same GM diesel as the Chevy and GMC trucks of the early 90s. I'm seeing a few of these in my future, and a couple of the diesels finding there way into some of the early 90s Chevy duallys I have in the stash!

It still is common, at least on trailers with spring ride suspension. All the trailers I pull at work, there are no shocks on any of them and they are all spring ride versions of the Moebius Great Dane Smoothside. Don't mind the broken spring, it was the only picture I knew I had of a suspension under the Great Danes I pull! That thing sounded like a bomb going off when it broke!

Michael, here is the truck cab: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REVELL-37-FORD-PICKUP-TRUCK-STREET-ROD-MODEL-CAR-KIT-2-N-1-PLASTIC-1-25-/361507607890?hash=item542b885552:g:oT4AAOSwP~tW4IOG As for the ramp itself, this one from the AMT/Model King release of the Racer's Wedge and Open Road Camper from around the mid 2000s, the ramp from the Papa Truck/Hideout Truck haulers, and the Ford Race Car Hauler are the only ones I know of in scale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMT-AMT758-1-25-Ford-LN-8000-Race-Car-Hauler-Plastic-Model-Kit-/390817548559?hash=item5afe8a890f:g:B-oAAOSwajVUUj~9 The Ford's bed may be your easiest choice, but not having one readily on hand, I don't know how much of the extra stuff is molded to the side panels of the bed itself. The bed for the Papa Truck, on the other hand, I do have easy access to, and it would build up to something very close to your pic. The width would be close, big rigs and duallys are very close in width, and the length would be about right too. I scaled the bed with my 1/25th scale ruler and it scales out to just about 24 1/2 feet long. The only modifications I could really see you needing to do with the Papa Truck bed is filling one of the drive axle cutouts and cutting off the skirting that extends under the cab of the truck in the box pic, that skirting is molded into the sides. Even if you would just use the deck from either and scratchbuild sides for the bed, these ideas should get you on your way!

There is a much easier way to block the signature line and yes Michael, this option will also allow you to block INDIVIDUAL signatures as well. If you look under the thin grey line that separates the signature from the post, just under where the "+" and blue highlighted "quote" is for quoting posts or multiple posts, follow that line all the way over to the right of the screen. You will find a light grey "X" and a light grey down arrow that look almost like the "down" arrow on your keyboard except looks like a solid upside down triangle, and you will only find it on member's posts that have a signature. You simply move your mouse into the signature area of that member and the "X" and triangle will become a dark grey, then move your mouse to the "X" and triangle, and a black box will appear will "IGNORE SIGNATURE PREFERENCES" in it. Using Michael's signature as an example (sorry, your post was the one I was reading when I noticed this ), when you left click on the "X" and triangle another box will appear with two choice boxes, and again just using Michael's as an example, "HIDE XINGU'S SIGNATURE" or "HIDE ALL SIGNATURES". Click on the choice you want and say "BYE BYE" to either one member's signature or everyones!

I will definitely have to get at least one of the conversions now!!

I wasn't able to a pic because I was driving, and not sure if a pic taken from my dash cam would have came out well if I could have stopped it at the right time in the video and screenshot it (and it doesn't help I left the dash cam in the truck ), but I was shocked to see a Ford F350 dually pulling a gooseneck, and on the gooseneck was an old dual drive Freightliner cabover! When I first seen it, I actually thought the Freightliner was following (and way too close I might add ) the dually, it wasn't until everything got closer to me that I could see the trailer and that the Freightliner was on the deck. Of course, the first thing that came to mind: COOL IDEA FOR A BUILD!

Come on JT, get to work!!! I want to see how this looks as a dually, I've been thinking of getting the dually conversion for at least one of mine.

X3!!!

Nice start Terry, just don't let the DOT look at the second trailer axle! I don't know if you just haven't gotten them on yet, but there are a couple suspension pieces missing.

Cool, I didn't hear about that. I might have to track another one down.

I have one of the General's too, and my plan has always been using it as a load. Was this reissued??

As Angel said, not noticeable at all, and here is the pic he was referring to from me in the other thread. Also, here are a couple pics I took for a thread about the differences between 1/24 and 1/25 scales. The tires in the pics are on a 1/24 scale tractor, and the blue trailer is a 1/24 scale Italeri container and the silver colored trailer is AMT's 1/25 scale livestock trailer. As you can see, there is not a very noticeable difference. Even over the length of trailers, I don't get all "Scale Nazi" over trailers, I was going to use the livestock trailer on this build, and now it has the Moebius 53' on it. When I measured the tractor's frame in scale, it measured out to 38 feet in 1/24 scale, but it was as long as the 1/25 scale trailer, so there was actually 2 feet difference between the two scales, but it still "looks" right.

I spent a little more bench time tonight on hopefully my last day of an unwanted "vacation" thanks to the upper respiratory infection I've been fighting for a week now, and got all the little bits finished to finally get the frame into a roller form and almost ready for primer and paint. I think I'm going to build some custom stack mounts, I'm not really happy with the kit pieces, and I'm going to see about getting another set that are longer and with elbows from Rhino's Custom Truck Parts so I don't have to piece these together with anything, but the size will stay 8" to let the big 16V71 Detroit breathe. A mock up of the complete unit, without the reefer unit yet. The nose and doors will remain chrome, and the reefer unit, landing legs, and suspension will be all the same red I'm going to use for the cab and trailer body. I couldn't resist taking a couple pics with this sitting alongside of its big brother. I think if the KW had a hood, it would be as long as the Ford!

Thanks Dennis, I'm pretty sure that was what I used on the bullrack my custom Ford was originally going to pull, and had the same issues. The gloves are a good suggestion for the fingerprints, but the other reason I'm looking for something I can clear for a more durable finish is for dusting, especially while this and the Ford are still in progress. Anything I've tried to clean the roof for either trailer has destroyed the shine. It may be my only choice is wait until everything else on both trailers are finished and paint the roof and floor of both just before final assembly, and then quickly get a case built for both.

Personally I would like to have this.

If you are talking about the F Series stepside "Ranger", it may be possible, but you would be looking at a needing to modify the frame and floorboards that are molded into the frame pieces as well if you are looking to build a regular cab dually. I have one of the duallys I'm converting to be my 1:1 1990 regular cab, and if it is just a regular cab you want, it's not that difficult to shorten the kit's cab. Here are some of the "surgery" pics from my conversion. This and the pic above shows what I removed from the molded in floors from the frame, but you have to cut around the crossmember and fuel tank in the middle section. This was the result of all the surgery, and the gap in between the bed and the cab is intentional. My truck was born as a chassis cab, and it has a 6 inch gap between the bed and the cab as a result of the previous owner putting the stock dually bed on it. It all came out to look like the 1:1, and once I drag it off the back burner, the 4x4 conversion will begin.