Jim Gibbons

Yet another really cool build! Speaking for myself, I'd like it if you did a tutorial some time on your weathered paint finishes. I know some basics, but yours are some of the more realistic ones I've seen. Thanks for sharing these.

Another great build...I really like this one. Looks the the hood of the car you took the pictures on is your reference source for the weathering! What car is the 1:1? Looks like a resto project.

Welcome, Jody! As others have said, this is a great forum, and many of us build other types of models, too. There's a topic and contest going on WW2 racing planes that you might peek at: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32878&st=0 Enjoy the board, and I'm always learning new things after 45 years of building myself.

As a humorous aside, in German, the article (ein) isn't used in the context of which city you're from. JFK should have said, "Ich bin Berliner!" If I recall, ein Berliner is some sort of pastry. Of course, the Germans knew what JFK meant, and not that he considered himself a jelly roll!

Looking great!

Great tutorial. I've been doing something similar for years on aircraft, but instead of using spray adhesive, I use Micro Metal Foil Adhesive from Microscale. It's a brush on adhesive (latex based, I guess,) and remains tacky for a very long time. I've never had it lift. Another tip is to go to your local Dollar type store and buy the cheapest, thinnest foil you can find. Reynolds is a bit thick to work with from past experience.

Holy smokes! Way over the top. Amazing model of one of my favorite MBs. I do prefer the SSK with the full fenders, etc., though, mainly for the aesthetics. The L (Leicht for "light") version is still really neat, though.

Well, I think you're underestimating your talents a bit, as it's looking great. The interior work is especially impressive. I wish I could find the photo (I thought I saved it on my computer, but found out I didn't) of the rear end of a Porsche 908 in the pits at a race. It was a white car, and the entire rear end looked black with soot from oil, road debris, rubber, etc. The only areas you could see white was where the pit crew's fingers had touched it or brushed against it. Rats, guess I'm going to have to Google Ferrari 275P images again, as that's where the photo popped up. If I find it, I'll post it.

Holy cow! I blink, and you have a new project going full tilt boogie! I think I'm going to have to change my user name to Lethargic Snail Builder. I'm especially interested in seeing how you do the LEDs to light it up.

Shades of Fawlty Towers..."I mentioned the war once, but I think I got away with it!"

Both are beautiful builds, and I also agree on the blue...a really appealing color.

You have to admit it's a heck of a lot better than the cross-eyed look of the Aero!

They are amazing works; I can't remember the scale, but I had built the Alan Rose paper models of the Empire State and Chrysler Buildings. Even at small scale, they were nearly (or over) three feet tall. It amazes me that they did those in 1/25. This is a park I would definitely like to see.

The gold looks really good! I don't know if you have done it, but I'd suggest black in the section between the rear quarter trim; the 1:1 pics that Jason posted of the red '60 have it in white. It'd compliment your mainly black interior. Are you sure this is your first model?! Very nice work so far.

Pepto Cruiser is a good name; the color combo reminds me of "Good 'N Plenty" candy...that's my nomination for a title! If you do a charcoal or black interior, that'd be the candy guts!

Welcome, Howard! Looking forward to seeing your builds.

Welcome to the board, Peter. There are a lot of talented folks here on all building levels. I've learned many things here, and you're always encouraged to ask questions. Mark Taylor's "Back to Basics" thread in Tutorials is a great place to start, even if you've been building a while. Consider it a refresher course. Have fun, because that's what a hobby is all about!

I've pondered restoring it, but would want to keep it pretty much as is, only as a "historical" model of mine. If I could find a bottle of the Pactra pink, I'd touch it up, find another wheel/ tire (I have no bloody idea what model(s) I got them from,) and another set of the lake pipes that are missing. I got really good at brush paint jobs back then; Pactra paints seemed to flow very well without adding thinner. I'd have to add thinner to Testor's jar paints to make them flow as smoothly. One of my favorite colors from Pactra was their Sapphire Blue (you can see a trace on the front wheel backing plate); I painted a '60 Plymouth wagon in that color with a white roof and front fender coves. It came out very well, but Pactra paints seemed to dry semi-gloss. Those were the days before I discovered clear spray, and LONG before polishing kits! Again, sorry to hijack the thread, but here's a front shot of that Revell '57:

As with your '51 Fleetline, amazingly beautiful work in every detail!

Glad I found this topic; nice save!!! I've done a number of aircraft models over the years in foil finish (doing a 1/32 P-38J in BMF would bankrupt you!), and use Micro Metal Foil Adhesive from Microscale when using cheap household aluminum foil. I've also run into the same problem with old BMF, and found if you use masking tape around the trim areas, brush on the above mentioned adhesive, the old BMF will stick! If you're careful, and have a steadier hand than me, you can skip the masking tape step. Reading your earlier posts, before I discovered the Foil adhesive, I used 3M spray stuff. You have to be very careful if it's used on bare plastic, as it can soften details. I put a little too much on a 1/72 P-38 once, and some rivet detail mushed a bit when I applied the foil. I later applied it to the foil instead, let it dry, then put some wax paper over it; kind of a homemade BMF.

That's looking really good, and using the foil is a great improvement. Not to hijack your thread, but here's one I built in the mid '70s that I unearthed this summer: Pactra pink from the bottle, brush painted. I have the '55 convertible which I'll be doing in coral/ grey like the box photo, so, nothing wrong with pink!

Saw an article this morning which made me look up the site. Obviously they won't fit in your average hobby room! http://www.tobuws.co.jp/en/about/index.html

Yes, put the tape right up to the raised edge. It will help protect the paint, and give a cutting guide. I can't stress enough to use fresh knife blades as often as needed. Household foil, even the cheap stuff, is significantly thicker than Bare Metal Foil, so will need more pressure to cut, and the blades get dull VERY quickly. If you have an old painted diecast model, or can get a really cheap one at a store, you might want to do a little practice on it before taking the foil and knife to your model. Good luck, and be patient; there's a lot of chrome trim on your 60!

Ultra cool...looks like a tarantula and a beetle mated, then was interpreted into an automobile. Very impressive!

Beautiful, though I'd hate to catch my shin on the Foose designed rear fender points! Back in the early 90's, I was returning from the Canadian Grand Prix with my friend, and we were passed by one of the Talbot Lago 9/10's replicas on the NYS Thruway. That was artwork on the highway. Both of the cars you posted qualify, too. Sigh. If only I were born rich!