Exotics_Builder

Here are the photos of what is in the Aoshima Lamborghini Aventador kit. I haven’t examined for sink marks or tree connection issues as yet. The kit has a lot more in it than the Fujimi, including metal pins for the doors and (I assume) hood as they all open. The optional PE set sure looks like it was done by KA models (who also do the Fujimi ones). But I haven’t checked that out either as yet. Here is what is in the kit.

The AMT 454 SS pickup kit engine is not really a modern big block IIRC. I think they modified the standard small block to look like a big block. Anyone else remember that? The above mentioned 67 impala is a good option. Ross Gibson engines has a modern FI bigblock. I think VCG resins sells a BB Chevy (572 CI) as well.

GREAT. I'll get my order back to you soon!!

Rain today, off and on. Kept a lot of cars away. Many empty slots. Took photos of the best that was there: http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s110/exotics_builder/2012%20Geneva%20Illinois%20Concours/

There was a fellow in the SABA club in Portland that used to use them. He'd do demo's on this and applying thin metal at their NNL's. He used some reducer with them that was not very hot but still allowed quick drying times IIRC. Fletch, got your "ears" on as I can't remember his name.

From my IHobby Report out: "Stacey David’s Rat Roaster - 1/25 – New tool based on Revell’s very nice 32 Ford. Too many mods needed to do a modified reissue. In my opinion, this may spread into early 3Q2012 given there are no test shots as yet"

If your paint is solid color, you can do that. If metallic or pearl, if the Orange peel is not that bad, clearing it can work. If you sand the color, on a metallic or pearl, you will have to recoat it before clearing.

Also, be sure whatever polishing compound you use has no silicas in it. Otherwise, you can't paint over it. Often, the polishing compounds will tell you if it is paintable over.

You should be looking for a glossy finsih. Otherwise, you could get silvering (where the decal does not lay down properly, even with setting solution). Let the decals dry for at least two days. Besides drying, you want to wash the model before clearing and don't want to loosen the decal/ The reason for washing is get any residue off before clearing. If you look at applied decals, you'll usually see some water spotting and you want to get rid of it prior to clearing. This is a slow and methodical process to get the best results. Don't rush it.

The car/truck part is 1 aisle and not stacked. Model railroad stuff is all but gone. RC is where the money is at and they were always big on it. Don Philips does come up from Saint Louis every few weeks to stay in touch. Even when I lived in the Seattle area, I would stop by when visiting my in-laws and would mail order from time to time. I'll miss it when I move back.

Should have been at the CARS in Miniature meeting last night where I did a seminar on finishing and polishing. BUt you'd have to drive to Crystal Lake Illinois Based on what you listed and assuming your paint job is NOT flawlessly smooth, I'd recommend: Clear Coat first, especially if your color coat is pearl or metallic. If not you could skip this step. Finish sand, starting with a 4000 grit paper (you may need to back down to a 3200 or 3600 if your paint is too "grainy". Run it up to 12000 grit following the directions of each successively finer grit move perpendicular to the prior grit. If it looks fairly smooth and glossy at this point proceed to step 5 Thouroughly clean your model and apply medium to fine polish to finish smoothing out. Thoroughly clean your model again and apply the decals. Mist on clear coats to be sure the clear does not attack the decal (you could experiment by applying a decal you won't use to a plastic spoon and test the clear) Wet coat the final clear coat and let thoroughly dry. Clean the model and then finish sand and polish out (remember polish is an abrasive as well) Before final polishing coat with a swirl remover or very fine compound, apply any bare metal foil. That way you can polish out the BMF as well. Assemble the model and wax if you want or use something like Novus #1 to do a final clean up. HTH

Small show. RC track set up and some interesting cars. To the Album: http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s110/exotics_builder/2012%20Ad%20Venture%20Hobbies%20Big%20Car%20Show/

And to the album: http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s110/exotics_builder/2012%20GTR%20NNL/

Don't forget Aurora's 62 Ferrari GTO that became a Monogram then RoG that was so off. I tend to agree with those who stated that it started out as a 250 GT that was converted mid-design

And:

INCOMING!

I have it downstairs in the basement "hobby shop". I can take Pix in the next day or two if you want.

I agree. I am looking at using the AMT kit as my base. And, I am debating about opening the trunk, but may skip it. The Revell 2010 Camaro SS is contribuiting engine, drive train and, perhaps, some interior pieces.

Here are some photos of the Aurora and AMT Avanti. The Aurora is the tan plastic. The Aurora has more pieces to the body and does allow an opening trunk (although Mr. Obsessive would decry the inaccuracy of the hinges). There are also no custom pieces for the Aurora kit. They look close, but I did not do any measurements. The seats (as previously speculated) are much smaller than they should be. Compare the AMT to the Aurora seat. The Aurora package shelf is separate, but does sport, as does the AMT, the bump for the fuel tank filler. A photo of a real interior show that the seats of both are not quite right: My plan for the Avanti was to a pro-touring version with modern Chevy LS gear and a modified interior. But, if you were doing a replica stock, some work would be required or just let it be for the AMT. HTH, Gerry

It looks like the engine from the MONOGRAM GMC Jimmy High Roller #2273

I'll make a stab at it some time this week.

What's a good deal? I've seen a couple in the $30-$40 dollar range. But, if it is to be reissued, I'm assuming it will likely be in the $25 range

1:1 Car Dimensions: Avanti - Weight 3095.3 lbs Length / Width / Height 192.4 in / 70.4 in / 53.9 in Wheelbase 109 in 65 Mustang - Weight 2,562 lbs Length / Width / Height 181.6 in/ 68.2 in/ 51.1 in Wheelbase: 108 inches I also have the original Aurora Avanti and can compare the two if there is interest?