Exotics_Builder

The high water mark in my opinion. Although expensive, it is an outstanding kit. The Scale Motorsport Daytona is curbside, nearly as expensive as HRM's with less detail and is sold out

So I did some more research, measurements, and took close up shots of the AMT 2013 ZL1, AMT 2011 Camaro SS Convertible and Revell 2010 Camaro SS. The AMT ZL1 comes with the same radio dash wide screen as the 2011 SS Convertible. This is incorrect for a ZL1 as it comes standard with the Chevrolet MyLink with 7” diagonal screen. It looks close, but will need to be corrected by a modeler wanting to be more prototypical. AMT 2013 ZL1 From real car: AMT 2011 Camaro Convertible From real car: Revell 2010 Camaro SS From real car: In this case, the AMT kit is a little "soft" on detail versus the Revell. The convertible would be the most obvious since the dash is so visible.

It has alarger display screen, but no decal provided for detail. See below for update Let's hope Revell will do one. I don't relish doing the conversion to full detail versus time on another model (like a Fujimi F12 Berlinetta sitting on the shelf). I WILL do the AMT convertible combined with the Revell detail.

And 3 more:

I used the old camera as the newer one is recharging.

If you mean the ZL1 wheels, yes. I will take some pics and post tomorrow AM.

Picked the kit up yesterday. Looks good. If Revell doesn't do one, the LSA is the Cadillac CTS/V version of the LS9 and the Revell ZR/1 could donate that. But the intake and shroud would need some mods. Also would need to add a cross brace on the shock towers. See my photos from the Palaitne Cruise In ZL1 engine bay close ups. Revell's 2010 Camaro can contribute detail including seats. I am not overly wild about the AMT vinyl seats (the rest of the interior is styrene).

Well I got to another car show at Sweet Baby Rays restaurant in Elk Grove Village Illinois. The show was small, but a bunch of interesting cars, including a Ferrari 458 Italia that I wish would have followed me home (I was wearing a Ferrari jacket and several people asked if it was mine). Anyway, lighting was better than the Friday Cruise-In that I posted the other day. Here are some photos followed by the Album Link: http://s150.photobucket.com/user/exotics_builder/library/2013%20May%20Sweet%20Baby%20Rays%20Cruise%20In

The weather is starting to break enough that some cars are migrating out of their winter hibernation to the cruise nights. This is the 3rd week for the cruise-in in downtown Palatine, but the cars were still a tad sparse. But among those that showed up were some Mustangs, including a couple of Fox body versions, a new ZL1 Camaro, and some interesting Mopars. Even though I am a GM man, particularly Chevies, I took photos of all that were there. Lighting was terrible due to the angle of the sun and the layout of the lot. I worked the photos as best as I could. As usual I have the Hi-Res versions on my Hard Drive if anyone wants more detail. Here are some photos and then a link to the album: http://s150.photobucket.com/user/exotics_builder/library/2013%20May%20Palatine%20Cruise%20In

I have them all and Matt is on the button. Go for the Fujimi. If you have the Italieri (Testor's also released a version), it is a good start if you don't want to go for a nother kit. There is also a lot of aftermarket for the Fujimi 250 GTO, including wire wheels to enhance it. The MFH kit, besides being expensive, has some shape issues and a very "solid" body that would preclude opening up anything not already open (assuming you wanted to that). The Protar (current and coming Revell reissue) has opening everything, a decent engine, OK tires, but a way too squared off rear end that would need considerable work.

It definitely does not look like the reboxed PROTAR kit as currently offered. I agree that it looks like the Italeri 250 GTO. I have the Italeri kit downstairs if you need a comparison. Revell AG also did other Italeri kit reboxes such as the 275 GTB's.

You HAVE to keep this one going! The concept is stunning. Are those the wheels you plan to use? If you're looking for something different, I'd would consider contributing something out of my wheel stash. Even though I just retired, I just missed out on submitting the 41 Chevy P/U for Gearz contest. So I know that feeling. Same thing last year with the 66 El Camino which I just finished in early January. Please carry on with it!!!

Gosh. I meant guitar string, not piano wire. Had pianos on the brain since they were talking about the costs of fiing the church's piano (for some reason the choir director sees a need for both a piano and an organ) If you want some photos of guitar string I can do that.

Look for piano wire in the right diameter and then paint. Certain piano wire has that ribbing. Ribbed piano wire can also be used for electrnic harnesses in modern cars like the Ferrari California, etc. I need to check on Pro-Tech braided fuel line to see how close it is. Will get back on that one.

I've resorted to white glue and Tamiya tape (rice paper). But I understand your dilemma

You are certainly very knowledgeable as evidenced by your replies in other posts. Regardless of the reason, the Revell plastic is quite "soft". Just look at how easily it can be sanded. But, I think your assessment of heavy coating technique is likely the culprit. I admit that I prefer Plastikote and Tamiya primers over duplicolor and have yet to have any problems with them on newer Revell plastic. Have you considered misting two light coats before a heavy coat just as you would base color? That would get some coverage before the heavy coat. Otherwise, as previously mentioned, BIN or Future first may give you the results. I have only used Duplicolor primer on a couple of Fujimi kits. My technique on all primers is a couple of light coats followed by a heavier coat.

It depends on the model and how visibile the finished dash is. I will always do something like bare metal foil, instrument work and perhaps some PE. But, I usually concentrate detail in the most visible areas.

I just did the 41 Chevy truck grill with Allclad using the black base and their aqueous clear. The black base is a lttle too dark in my opinion and I would likely try blue or dark grey on my next attempt.

I've used insect mounting pins, stretched sprue or stainless tube. Here's one with insect mounting pin.

Already announced. Promo only. No engine.

I'd go with the Tamiya. The only kit not yet mentioned is the Protar and it has a mult-piece body.

A few days back I got my order from Kris. Prompt service and great quality.

Nope, no flooding. Rain guage showed about 5 inches since Monday. Sump pump was in overtime, but the backup pump never kicked in. The wetlands down the street used as a detention pond is a pond.

I agree for final primer coat. Gives some "tooth" for the color coat. I wouldn't go finer than 3200 grit.

To be concise: The manufacturers are not as friendly as they were in the halcyon days. This meant the auto, tire, related industry. It also includes some racing teams which apparently want big dollars to license their car. One noted exception brought up at the 2011 IHOBBY was Steve Kinser being very supportive. Gerry